comptech ctsc with aftercooler--IAT'S TOO HIGH
#1
comptech ctsc with aftercooler--IAT'S TOO HIGH
i just recently had my comptech supercharger with 3 inch pulley and aftercooler tuned by matt shue
it was 98 degrees in the shop and my iat's were anywhere from 160-180, even when we took the car for a drive the iat's didnt go down much, since then i have switched to a FMIC set up (temps never go over 140 even idleing in 100 degree temps)until i can figure why the temps were up so high
i have an upgraded spearco heat exchanger with bosch pump
with the pump on you can barely see any coolant moving around inside the aftercooler with the cap off where you insert coolant, also the pump is very quiet
Any input on my situation would be great
also anyone know of a better "circulating" pump
it was 98 degrees in the shop and my iat's were anywhere from 160-180, even when we took the car for a drive the iat's didnt go down much, since then i have switched to a FMIC set up (temps never go over 140 even idleing in 100 degree temps)until i can figure why the temps were up so high
i have an upgraded spearco heat exchanger with bosch pump
with the pump on you can barely see any coolant moving around inside the aftercooler with the cap off where you insert coolant, also the pump is very quiet
Any input on my situation would be great
also anyone know of a better "circulating" pump
#2
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i just recently had my comptech supercharger with 3 inch pulley and aftercooler tuned by matt shue
it was 98 degrees in the shop and my iat's were anywhere from 160-180, even when we took the car for a drive the iat's didnt go down much, since then i have switched to a FMIC set up (temps never go over 140 even idleing in 100 degree temps)until i can figure why the temps were up so high
i have an upgraded spearco heat exchanger with bosch pump
with the pump on you can barely see any coolant moving around inside the aftercooler with the cap off where you insert coolant, also the pump is very quiet
Any input on my situation would be great
also anyone know of a better "circulating" pump
it was 98 degrees in the shop and my iat's were anywhere from 160-180, even when we took the car for a drive the iat's didnt go down much, since then i have switched to a FMIC set up (temps never go over 140 even idleing in 100 degree temps)until i can figure why the temps were up so high
i have an upgraded spearco heat exchanger with bosch pump
with the pump on you can barely see any coolant moving around inside the aftercooler with the cap off where you insert coolant, also the pump is very quiet
Any input on my situation would be great
also anyone know of a better "circulating" pump
#3
Former Sponsor
Positive the pump was working? My IAT's went up to similar numbers when my aftercooler pump got disconnected. Should not be that high at all. Even idling in that temperature heat should be around 150 degrees or so.
#4
i just recently had my comptech supercharger with 3 inch pulley and aftercooler tuned by matt shue
it was 98 degrees in the shop and my iat's were anywhere from 160-180, even when we took the car for a drive the iat's didnt go down much, since then i have switched to a FMIC set up (temps never go over 140 even idleing in 100 degree temps)until i can figure why the temps were up so high
i have an upgraded spearco heat exchanger with bosch pump
with the pump on you can barely see any coolant moving around inside the aftercooler with the cap off where you insert coolant, also the pump is very quiet
Any input on my situation would be great
also anyone know of a better "circulating" pump
it was 98 degrees in the shop and my iat's were anywhere from 160-180, even when we took the car for a drive the iat's didnt go down much, since then i have switched to a FMIC set up (temps never go over 140 even idleing in 100 degree temps)until i can figure why the temps were up so high
i have an upgraded spearco heat exchanger with bosch pump
with the pump on you can barely see any coolant moving around inside the aftercooler with the cap off where you insert coolant, also the pump is very quiet
Any input on my situation would be great
also anyone know of a better "circulating" pump
#5
as stated the aftercooler is off the car until i correct this issue
how do i go about "testing" the pump?
could i have just had all the coolant lines hooked up wrong from the aftercooler to the pump and to the heat exchanger? (as in where the coolant wouldn't flow as well or at all)
how do i go about "testing" the pump?
could i have just had all the coolant lines hooked up wrong from the aftercooler to the pump and to the heat exchanger? (as in where the coolant wouldn't flow as well or at all)
#6
Take the pump out and submerge one intake you will see if it's working alright if it meets the gpm output rate, measure the output.
Brushes don't last forever in pumps
Brushes don't last forever in pumps
#7
Registered User
^ This is something I've also done. Some longer wire, connected to your car battery, and a bucket of water. Submerge it and see if it runs. You'll be quite surprised by how fast the water circulates.
In your instance, I've had this problem twice, with different reasons.
Reason 1: My pump has to sit 100% vertically flush up against something to operate. I mounted it against the chassis to do so. I suggest taking your front bumper off (2 min job) and putting your ignition on to accessories (or however you have the pump wired up so it turns on). It will make a buzzing sound if its running. Jiggle it around until you hear it running then use some duct tape to hold it in place wile you check the aftercooler by undoing the waterhole bolt. If you look straight down into the hole you will see the water is flowing left to right or right to left depending how you have your hoses connected up. This is how the aftercooler setup should run. Then just mount the pump in place somehow to the car in a position where it works 100% of the time.
Reason 2: Your aftercooler is clogged. When I had mine professionally polished up, the guy that did the job, obviously didn't put a rag in the radiator holes. The 1000's of 100000's of small metal particle debris fell into the radiator clogging it. I swapped my hoses around, pushing the water in the opposite direction, and held the hoses tight on n off to create some pressure. Eventually all the shit came unclogged and the waterhole turned a disgusting brown colour as it passed by and drained down into a bucket. Swapped the hoses again and gave it a flush in the other direction to remove any bits of crap still there.
Again the best solution is to crack open the waterhole on the aftercooler and simple make sure water is flowing through the hole left to right or right to left. If there is water flow (it should flow right to left to combat the incoming air temps going left to right rather than flow with it) then your aftercooler setup is working fine and the problem is elsewhere.
Let us know how you go!
In your instance, I've had this problem twice, with different reasons.
Reason 1: My pump has to sit 100% vertically flush up against something to operate. I mounted it against the chassis to do so. I suggest taking your front bumper off (2 min job) and putting your ignition on to accessories (or however you have the pump wired up so it turns on). It will make a buzzing sound if its running. Jiggle it around until you hear it running then use some duct tape to hold it in place wile you check the aftercooler by undoing the waterhole bolt. If you look straight down into the hole you will see the water is flowing left to right or right to left depending how you have your hoses connected up. This is how the aftercooler setup should run. Then just mount the pump in place somehow to the car in a position where it works 100% of the time.
Reason 2: Your aftercooler is clogged. When I had mine professionally polished up, the guy that did the job, obviously didn't put a rag in the radiator holes. The 1000's of 100000's of small metal particle debris fell into the radiator clogging it. I swapped my hoses around, pushing the water in the opposite direction, and held the hoses tight on n off to create some pressure. Eventually all the shit came unclogged and the waterhole turned a disgusting brown colour as it passed by and drained down into a bucket. Swapped the hoses again and gave it a flush in the other direction to remove any bits of crap still there.
Again the best solution is to crack open the waterhole on the aftercooler and simple make sure water is flowing through the hole left to right or right to left. If there is water flow (it should flow right to left to combat the incoming air temps going left to right rather than flow with it) then your aftercooler setup is working fine and the problem is elsewhere.
Let us know how you go!
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#8
If you have the Comptech aftercooler, I strongly suggest getting it insulated with a ceramic or jet hot coating. I have done a ghetto rig and have noticed significant changes in heat fluctuation. It is bare aluminum in the engine bay and will soak up every little bit of heat.
The SoS aftercooler is coated and you can immediately notice a difference in them to the touch under near identical settings.
The SoS aftercooler is coated and you can immediately notice a difference in them to the touch under near identical settings.