ChefJ

Part number 8023-1680
competion ironman clutch kit for a 500ish whp rarely street driven car. Is this to much clutch or will it be ok? I can get it for a pretty good price. Just curious on experiences or what you may think is a good clutch at that hp level. There won't be any from a dig racing if that has anything to do with a response. Thanks.

jwa4378

I believe Phil is running that same disc on his car... 619rwhp. (Assuming you mean the Competition Clutches Ironman 6-Puck).

I have it in my car (it was 336/205... now probably over 400 running 1BAR on the 9:1 Laskey motor) as my daily driver. Good puck clutch.

Just remember, its a Puck.... There is still some chatter, but very minimal, and only over a short stretch of the engagement. If you do not want to launch, there is not much point in a puck clutch. It is more like a race-car on/off feeling to the pedal. Floating the revs prior to engagement from a stop is a MUST in order to not be forced into slipping the clutch for smooth takeoff.

The disc does suffer from the clutch buzz associated with pre-MY02 OEM clutches (springs are just not strong enough, resulting in the disc buzzing on loaded decel at certain RPMs). I am not sure how many clutches are out there that do not suffer from this... I know Spec is one company that has a reputation for a quiet disc.

Mistman

I run it also (390/249), it's a great clutch, holds awesome but I wouldn't want it for a DD. Like jwa said, it's pretty much on/off, you don't really want to ride it at all, it'll get really noisy and grabby. I was stuck at a light on a hill one time, traffic was moving 1 car at a time, by the time I got to the light the disc was really angry at me for trying to ride it, you could hear every fibre on the puck screaming as it heated up. I ended up just e-braking it to start (which you may have to do sometimes, like starting on a hill in traffic). The car is my summmer/weekend car and I don't drive it in town that much so it doesn't bother me.

ChefJ

Now I am considering the ACT HD PP but the pp alone costs as much as I can get the clutch and pp with the tools for the ironman. Will the ACT hold this kind of hp

camuman

how much tq are we talkin about? 400? 300? i would do the competiion clutch gangster disc that holds 150% over stock. if stock can hold 220 crank tq then were talkin ROFL 500+ crank tq capable. the clutchmasters stage 3 can hold 110% over stock so we are still talkin 450 ish crank. ehh, i would do the competition disc if i was you. i wont make more then 240-260 tq so i did the clutchmasters stage 3.

good luck.


NO TO PUCK

ChefJ

my last dyno on 13psi was 388whp and 290ft/lb. We turned the boost up a little and the OEM clutch let go after 6k rpms. I am aiming for 20-22psi this spring and maybe a full build next winter. My car seems to have decent torque numbers which makes me happy. I don't know how much "crank torque" that would be though 340ish I am guessing

camuman

i personally wouldnt hesitate wit the competition disk clutch. you might sxceed the clutchmassters, but i doubt you will exceed the competition.

i was just adding around 10% for crank, becuase the clutches are rated at crank tq.

blueap2

why no to puck? i just installed a stage 4 competition clutch and it seems pretty easy to drive and its not even broken in yet...

siadam

I just bought the Competition Clutch Stage 4 from evans-tuning.com He says it's fine for the 500whp mark.

300% in tq capacity.

Pics.

Competition Clutch Stage 4.

camuman

why no puck? i have yet to see a flywheel that can survive a puck clutch. my h22 hatch had a puck clutch and it destroyed my flywheel. my buddy had a b series with a puck clutch and his flywheel was destroyed too. the puck clutch is harder then the flywheel, so it wears instead of the puck clutch. ehh, its your call, but if a disc will hold the power, why do a puck?