Cold Air Intake for SOS kit
#61
And now for a complete distraction...
A buddy of mine found a recent thread where Forged is building an STi. They did some initial pulls with a Precision 6765 on pump gas and made 367whp. (Their dyno is a notorious heartbreaker.) Which explains why the whole place came over to look when I broke 400 with my magic CAI. Anyway, it's a fun read because they did a ton of work on the car. Enjoy!
STi build
A buddy of mine found a recent thread where Forged is building an STi. They did some initial pulls with a Precision 6765 on pump gas and made 367whp. (Their dyno is a notorious heartbreaker.) Which explains why the whole place came over to look when I broke 400 with my magic CAI. Anyway, it's a fun read because they did a ton of work on the car. Enjoy!
STi build
#62
In other news, I just dropped 120 bucks on intake piping for my custom intake attempt. I plan on running a 90 degree 3.5 off the blower on a 45 degree angle towards the passenger side wheel well liner and running the intake similar to an AEM CAI. the goal is NO CUTTING of any kind. Then Ill do dyno testing.
This is making me feel bad. I'm pretty sure what happened with mine has to be a fluke - the dyno weirded out, or the E-manage reset itself, or the box around the air filter was restricting flow... There's no logical way that a homemade CAI suddenly made 44whp. I'm excited to see how yours turns out, but I really hate to see you spend money on it before we've proved or disproved what happened with my setup.
I'm going to go back for another tune, but haven't decided when yet. Here's my to-do list for my next session:
1. Move VTEC lower, probably to 3,500 rpm.
2. Get rid of that A/F spike in the midrange.
3. Do a pull with the CAI fully installed (as it is now) to compare results against what happened when it was sticking out of the engine bay.
4. Take the front bumper cover off and do another pull to see if I've cut big enough holes yet to get air in there.
5. Put the bumper cover back on and get that $#@^!*! boost limiter valve working to cap boost @ 14psi.
I expect my final HP number to be lower with boost limited to 14psi, but doing that and removing the A/F spike will make me comfortable taking the car to the drag strip. I wanna see how well my butt dyno is calibrated...
#63
What wideband do you have?
I simply couldn't get the AEM to output correct figures compared to the gauge! in the GEMU software, I even messed about with the scaling. I was going to try a capacitor but i don't think the AEM will ever work as its non linear.
I simply couldn't get the AEM to output correct figures compared to the gauge! in the GEMU software, I even messed about with the scaling. I was going to try a capacitor but i don't think the AEM will ever work as its non linear.
#64
can the GEMU read a linera 0-5v signal for wideband? Piggyback isnt my area of expertise.
#65
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Good vent ideas on it, but i would recommend some sort of angles and blocks, as well as one of the "heat shields" to add some pieces to so it covers the intake from water. I was thinking of something like this aswell, but im waiting for dyno's!
#66
Originally Posted by Irvatron' timestamp='1311239837' post='20800188
What wideband do you have?
I simply couldn't get the AEM to output correct figures compared to the gauge! in the GEMU software, I even messed about with the scaling. I was going to try a capacitor but i don't think the AEM will ever work as its non linear.
I simply couldn't get the AEM to output correct figures compared to the gauge! in the GEMU software, I even messed about with the scaling. I was going to try a capacitor but i don't think the AEM will ever work as its non linear.
That's the conundrum. I want to keep it totally safe from water that might splash against it (rain, or spray from other cars' tires). But putting too much baffling around the filter might restrict airflow. I'm going to drive around and see what happens when it rains, and adjust from there.
#67
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think of something like a vent grate from your basic floor vent, have the openings facing the radiator, and the slotted metal's face towards the incoming air/water. the SC will suck in enough air because it would work like a vacuum, but it would also at the same time keep the majority of the water out.
#68
Originally Posted by Irvatron' timestamp='1311239837' post='20800188
What wideband do you have?
I simply couldn't get the AEM to output correct figures compared to the gauge! in the GEMU software, I even messed about with the scaling. I was going to try a capacitor but i don't think the AEM will ever work as its non linear.
I simply couldn't get the AEM to output correct figures compared to the gauge! in the GEMU software, I even messed about with the scaling. I was going to try a capacitor but i don't think the AEM will ever work as its non linear.
#70
In all honesty and my experience...
If you drive through a deep puddle of water you will still get hydrolock, with or without a sock.
My friend had a car, he called me one afternoon to say that he drove through a flood slowly and the car conked out, I knew what had happened. His AEM had sucked water through and flooded the cylinders, so had to plug the plugs open the TB to let the water drip out and let it fire through the spark plug holes, after that we changed the oil and filter and the car was fine.
Hydrosocks = Do not stop hydrolock.
If you drive through a deep puddle of water you will still get hydrolock, with or without a sock.
My friend had a car, he called me one afternoon to say that he drove through a flood slowly and the car conked out, I knew what had happened. His AEM had sucked water through and flooded the cylinders, so had to plug the plugs open the TB to let the water drip out and let it fire through the spark plug holes, after that we changed the oil and filter and the car was fine.
Hydrosocks = Do not stop hydrolock.