Car No Start: CTSC / AEM 1052 / Dead Battery
#1
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Car No Start: CTSC / AEM 1052 / Dead Battery
Ok guys, got a strange problem.
I used the car on Thursday night and all was fine.
I went to use the car on Saturday night, and it was dead. I presumed I left an interior light on and it drained my already poor battery, so I put it on charge overnight.
Wake up Sunday, car still won't start - battery is gone. Hit the power button, and just got clickclickclickclickclickclickclickclick etc like a dead battery. the guage cluster flickers and ticks and the lights dont turn on - no power.
Trip to the local autostore, I get a new battery, and install it. Car still won't start...more clickclickclickclick sound.
I check the charge on the battery they gave me, and it was dead flat. So I charged it on a 10amp charger from 2pm - 5pm, and it only charged up 3 bars out of 5 - but atleast the radio and air cond worked.
From 5pm - 9pm I charged the battery some more thinking it would be good to work now... still no go.
It was making a funny sound - even when completely dead with no power and nothing on, which I chased back to the waterpump from the aftercooler, so I switched it off when i put the key to ignition (as I have it on a switch on / off from previously running EK foglights). I turned it off, and the humming sound has gone. But it was odd - the switch was off.... as was absolutely everything else... and no key in the ignition yet it still had power to operate...?!?!
This is where I am currently at.
I'm going to take the battery back tomorrow and get a new one (with full charge LOL) and hope all my issues go away and that the car starts and fires up first go.
If not, I'm a lil worried..... A tune / ignition setup / cold start on the AEM ECU surely can't be wiped from swapping batteries over? Can it? Its just a plug n play AEM 1052U velcro'd to the chassis.
Has my ignition failed? Might explain the aftercooler waterpump constantly running with no keyed ignition power. Would also explain why the battery was never fully charged - the waterpump was draining the power it was recharging.....
Anyone have any thoughts or input on the matter?
I used the car on Thursday night and all was fine.
I went to use the car on Saturday night, and it was dead. I presumed I left an interior light on and it drained my already poor battery, so I put it on charge overnight.
Wake up Sunday, car still won't start - battery is gone. Hit the power button, and just got clickclickclickclickclickclickclickclick etc like a dead battery. the guage cluster flickers and ticks and the lights dont turn on - no power.
Trip to the local autostore, I get a new battery, and install it. Car still won't start...more clickclickclickclick sound.
I check the charge on the battery they gave me, and it was dead flat. So I charged it on a 10amp charger from 2pm - 5pm, and it only charged up 3 bars out of 5 - but atleast the radio and air cond worked.
From 5pm - 9pm I charged the battery some more thinking it would be good to work now... still no go.
It was making a funny sound - even when completely dead with no power and nothing on, which I chased back to the waterpump from the aftercooler, so I switched it off when i put the key to ignition (as I have it on a switch on / off from previously running EK foglights). I turned it off, and the humming sound has gone. But it was odd - the switch was off.... as was absolutely everything else... and no key in the ignition yet it still had power to operate...?!?!
This is where I am currently at.
I'm going to take the battery back tomorrow and get a new one (with full charge LOL) and hope all my issues go away and that the car starts and fires up first go.
If not, I'm a lil worried..... A tune / ignition setup / cold start on the AEM ECU surely can't be wiped from swapping batteries over? Can it? Its just a plug n play AEM 1052U velcro'd to the chassis.
Has my ignition failed? Might explain the aftercooler waterpump constantly running with no keyed ignition power. Would also explain why the battery was never fully charged - the waterpump was draining the power it was recharging.....
Anyone have any thoughts or input on the matter?
#2
Registered User
why did you velcro your EMS?
sounds like you wired your aftercooler's water pump to a constant 12v instead of an ignition enabled 12v - that will kill your battery asap.
completely unwire your aftercooler pump and start from there. recharge the battery and see what happens. if the battery shows a good charge, go after the starter. if all else fails, throw the stock ecu back on and try that - you never know with standalone systems.
you did not lose your tune.
sounds like you wired your aftercooler's water pump to a constant 12v instead of an ignition enabled 12v - that will kill your battery asap.
completely unwire your aftercooler pump and start from there. recharge the battery and see what happens. if the battery shows a good charge, go after the starter. if all else fails, throw the stock ecu back on and try that - you never know with standalone systems.
you did not lose your tune.
#3
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: new york
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i am having a similar problem right now i have a inline pro kit went to start it this moring and it cranks but wont start now im guessing its the battery but idk could it just be its dead cold outside... but i dont think its my battery cuse im not getting the dead battery sound i hate turbos already
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by TelosHedge' date='Jan 26 2009, 01:31 AM
why did you velcro your EMS?
sounds like you wired your aftercooler's water pump to a constant 12v instead of an ignition enabled 12v - that will kill your battery asap.
completely unwire your aftercooler pump and start from there. recharge the battery and see what happens. if the battery shows a good charge, go after the starter. if all else fails, throw the stock ecu back on and try that - you never know with standalone systems.
you did not lose your tune.
sounds like you wired your aftercooler's water pump to a constant 12v instead of an ignition enabled 12v - that will kill your battery asap.
completely unwire your aftercooler pump and start from there. recharge the battery and see what happens. if the battery shows a good charge, go after the starter. if all else fails, throw the stock ecu back on and try that - you never know with standalone systems.
you did not lose your tune.
Throwing the stock ECU back in is a PITA because I also run 750cc injectors...
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
its all sorted.
My 2nd battery had 3 ****ed cells hence why it didn't hold charge and didn't work.
Got another replacement and had them test it first, and its all good, car fired up first go, even with same amount of battery charge at 3 bars..
My 2nd battery had 3 ****ed cells hence why it didn't hold charge and didn't work.
Got another replacement and had them test it first, and its all good, car fired up first go, even with same amount of battery charge at 3 bars..
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