Boost a Spark NOT working like planned?
07-24-2013, 11:43 PM
#71
Finally fixed the issue! It was simple. I switched to a heat range 9 Iridium and bam clean runs back to back! Hell, I made 500hp @ only 13 psi. I kept the same plug gap of .019 and didn't touch the timing.
Realstreet, I added timing up top and didnt gain anything. On one of the pulls I shut off the car at the end of the run and checked the plug. It's center on the bend of the strap. I tried added timing and the car lost power. It made the most power at 12.5 degrees up top. Yeah it sounds low but that's what it wanted man. AF are 11.7 flat.
Realstreet, I added timing up top and didnt gain anything. On one of the pulls I shut off the car at the end of the run and checked the plug. It's center on the bend of the strap. I tried added timing and the car lost power. It made the most power at 12.5 degrees up top. Yeah it sounds low but that's what it wanted man. AF are 11.7 flat.
07-25-2013, 07:44 AM
#72
Originally Posted by 1SlowSi' timestamp='1374687880' post='22684777
[quote name='RealStreet' timestamp='1374679895' post='22684481']
[quote name='1SlowSi' timestamp='1374552052' post='22681418']
Finally fixed the issue! It was simple. I switched to a heat range 9 Iridium and bam clean runs back to back! Hell, I made 500hp @ only 13 psi. I kept the same plug gap of .019 and didn't touch the timing.
Realstreet, I added timing up top and didnt gain anything. On one of the pulls I shut off the car at the end of the run and checked the plug. It's center on the bend of the strap. I tried added timing and the car lost power. It made the most power at 12.5 degrees up top. Yeah it sounds low but that's what it wanted man. AF are 11.7 flat.
[quote name='1SlowSi' timestamp='1374552052' post='22681418']
Finally fixed the issue! It was simple. I switched to a heat range 9 Iridium and bam clean runs back to back! Hell, I made 500hp @ only 13 psi. I kept the same plug gap of .019 and didn't touch the timing.
Realstreet, I added timing up top and didnt gain anything. On one of the pulls I shut off the car at the end of the run and checked the plug. It's center on the bend of the strap. I tried added timing and the car lost power. It made the most power at 12.5 degrees up top. Yeah it sounds low but that's what it wanted man. AF are 11.7 flat.
500whp@13psi what brand dyno are you using?
That's strange to me that it didn't gain power with timing up top. Have you checked backpressure?
What it wants is what it wants.... I've just never had one run that low on timing. Between that and your experience with the heat range I wonder if we are using two different fuels.
Have you ever verified that your laptop and your engine timing match?
Thanks
Jay Meagher
I have not measured back pressure but I am almost certain that this T3/.82 is working against my motor that likes to breath. Here are some hp numbers throughout the boost range..
6266 T3 .83 open 3" exhaust / E85 tested at 85% ethanol
13.5 psi - 500whp
17 psi - 572
18.5 psi - 594
21 psi - 625
24 psi - 660
26 psi - 685
Honestly, I havent checked to see if the timing was the same because you couldnt change it anyways. Im just giving it what it wants with what the dyno is saying and what the plugs look like. From what I have "heard", hondata tables are usually lower than AEM and Haltech because of things in the background. Is this true or are you telling me that you havent seen timing that low in KPro as well?
[/quote]
I'd agree that more turbine housing will help it breathe.
You're using SAE or STD? Maybe my dyno is a bit tight.
I don't currently tune Kpro so I can't comment. I stay busy with AEM/Motec?Haltech and a host of Domestic based ECUs.
With any system there is inductive delay and the ignition value you see may not be exactly what you're getting due to the "time" change at higher engine speed VS lower engine speed. I always check timing at low engine speed and near redline to set the delay comp up.
Thanks
[/quote]
These are all STD numbers with smoothing 5.
07-25-2013, 10:57 AM
#73
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Originally Posted by 1SlowSi' timestamp='1374552052' post='22681418
Finally fixed the issue! It was simple. I switched to a heat range 9 Iridium and bam clean runs back to back! Hell, I made 500hp @ only 13 psi. I kept the same plug gap of .019 and didn't touch the timing.
Realstreet, I added timing up top and didnt gain anything. On one of the pulls I shut off the car at the end of the run and checked the plug. It's center on the bend of the strap. I tried added timing and the car lost power. It made the most power at 12.5 degrees up top. Yeah it sounds low but that's what it wanted man. AF are 11.7 flat.
Realstreet, I added timing up top and didnt gain anything. On one of the pulls I shut off the car at the end of the run and checked the plug. It's center on the bend of the strap. I tried added timing and the car lost power. It made the most power at 12.5 degrees up top. Yeah it sounds low but that's what it wanted man. AF are 11.7 flat.
500whp@13psi what brand dyno are you using?
That's strange to me that it didn't gain power with timing up top. Have you checked backpressure?
What it wants is what it wants.... I've just never had one run that low on timing. Between that and your experience with the heat range I wonder if we are using two different fuels.
Have you ever verified that your laptop and your engine timing match?
Thanks
Jay Meagher
Anthony Any back to back datalogs with the timing change?
07-25-2013, 11:56 AM
#74
Boost will drop when adding timing because it wants the timing. I have quite a few datalogs but that wasn't my issue. With no timing changes, I turned up the boost 3 psi and saw no added hp.
07-25-2013, 01:13 PM
#75
Registered User
07-25-2013, 02:33 PM
#76
Nope. The intake manifold pressure is still reading the increase. I will be on a Dynapack tonight so I can control the damn spinning non-sense. No more dynojets for me until I get meat in the back.
09-15-2014, 11:14 AM
#78
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So cut the blk/yellow ING 1 wire. Wire from the harness goes to the "in" on the BAS and the one from the plug goes to the "out" on the BAS. So there's no need to power the BAS since it's getting it from coil wires? I'm confused! lol I think I'm backwards???
Thanks in advance
09-15-2014, 07:12 PM
#79
No you're correct.
The IGN1 is a constant 12V input to the BAS. The output is a 'boosted' amplified voltage going to the coils. If I remember correctly, the coils are switched thru the returns via the ECU. That is, the ECU provides the return (negative) to the coil to complete the circuit to energize it.
Some have improved their setup by running a large gauge 12V input directly from the battery. You need to make sure it's switched so it's not constantly on (though the parasitic load is small).
The IGN1 is a constant 12V input to the BAS. The output is a 'boosted' amplified voltage going to the coils. If I remember correctly, the coils are switched thru the returns via the ECU. That is, the ECU provides the return (negative) to the coil to complete the circuit to energize it.
Some have improved their setup by running a large gauge 12V input directly from the battery. You need to make sure it's switched so it's not constantly on (though the parasitic load is small).
09-21-2014, 04:00 PM
#80
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No you're correct.
The IGN1 is a constant 12V input to the BAS. The output is a 'boosted' amplified voltage going to the coils. If I remember correctly, the coils are switched thru the returns via the ECU. That is, the ECU provides the return (negative) to the coil to complete the circuit to energize it.
Some have improved their setup by running a large gauge 12V input directly from the battery. You need to make sure it's switched so it's not constantly on (though the parasitic load is small).
The IGN1 is a constant 12V input to the BAS. The output is a 'boosted' amplified voltage going to the coils. If I remember correctly, the coils are switched thru the returns via the ECU. That is, the ECU provides the return (negative) to the coil to complete the circuit to energize it.
Some have improved their setup by running a large gauge 12V input directly from the battery. You need to make sure it's switched so it's not constantly on (though the parasitic load is small).
Just curious how many people are running the BAS under constant operation? Vs. only over 4 psi of boost? Any advantage to either? I read people experiencing better idle under constant, although I I don't really have that issue.
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