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Blown 3mm head gasket

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Old 05-04-2009, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Slows2k,May 4 2009, 03:47 PM
If you followed the OEM torque sequence they should have been much higher than 90ft lbs. It's 22 ft/lbs, +90, +90 degrees on used bolts, +90 on new. It's up around 200ft lbs
It made me sweat, this was not as easy as it sounds with a small breaker bar.

Don't forget if you get a small ping you need to back off and retorque. Nearly all of them pinged before I got to the second 90, despite the oil on the appropriate surfaces.

Can't wait to do it again.

Old 05-04-2009, 03:57 PM
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It's not bad with a torque angle gauge and a 36" breaker bar
Old 05-04-2009, 03:58 PM
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Here's what I used:


I'm assembling the bottom end at that point but you get the idea.
Old 05-04-2009, 04:03 PM
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That will get it done. It's hard to accurately measure applied torque with a click style wrench, does that have a beam scale on it?
Old 05-04-2009, 04:06 PM
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How do you retorque the OEM studs if there is no torque spec?
Old 05-04-2009, 04:08 PM
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No, that's just a big ol'rachet.
Old 05-04-2009, 04:27 PM
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OEM is bolts not studs.

I would assume you loosen all of them in a reverse sequence and start over. Never did it though, all the S2k heads I've put on had stock HG's or O-ringed t-sleeves.
Old 05-04-2009, 04:34 PM
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Have you done one with ARP studs?

What procedure did you use?
Old 05-04-2009, 04:36 PM
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I used AEBS studs, but they recommend the same procedure as stock.
Old 05-04-2009, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by AusS2000,May 4 2009, 03:58 PM
Here's what I used:


I'm assembling the bottom end at that point but you get the idea.
I was using a 20" bar , that would be much easier

I have a feeling that is not you cheapest tool though? I am using a scrap peice of 1" conduit and a regular ratchet.


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