Blown 3mm head gasket
11-02-2009, 11:04 AM
#121
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getting ready to reinstall the arp studs into the block. I don't have any arp thread sealant to put on the threads,
Should/can i use something else? if so what would you guys suggest?
This is just for threading the bolts into the block, i have the molylube for the bolt instalation.
Should/can i use something else? if so what would you guys suggest?
This is just for threading the bolts into the block, i have the molylube for the bolt instalation.
09-25-2010, 08:26 PM
#123
Originally Posted by Revenge,May 11 2009, 09:38 AM
So is this a trend, the 3mm HG and 20+psi the HG is a short lived thing, seems like at 18psi there were a lot less issues but going past the 20psi mark they seem to give out a bit more? Or is it with the better flowing manifolds produce more CFM?
09-26-2010, 12:36 AM
#124
Too much timing at boost hit and was probably detonating. Set your timing up like mine and you wont do that anymore. 
09-26-2010, 04:18 PM
#125
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yea this was my problem all along, i did the same thing and replaced almost as many pieces of the cooling system as u, when it was the hg all along
05-10-2011, 06:32 PM
#127
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I wanted to bring this back so I can ask how the 3mm's are doing now? Iv read this whole thread and what I got from it is...
. Use the HG spray on all sides before installing
. Tq down to 70 then 80 then 90 in the order the book states, then back off 1/4 turn ( or under 90 ) then back to 90.
. Dont boost over 20lbs. Lets say 18lbs of boost is good.
. Use ARP head studs.
I think thats everything. If Im missing anything please let me know.
................QUESTION................
Im running....
IP stage 1 with hondata flash pro.
6265 turbo
id1000's
Stock HG
pump 93 gas
Walbro Fuel pump
13lbs boost
(Made 360hp)
I would like to know how much more power I would get and how much boost I can run if....
I run IP fuel return system (for my 2007 AP2)
added inline Bosh044
Run E85
Change IP log mani for a Ram Horn Mani.
ALSO..... what if I install the IP 3mm HG.. ???
. Use the HG spray on all sides before installing
. Tq down to 70 then 80 then 90 in the order the book states, then back off 1/4 turn ( or under 90 ) then back to 90.
. Dont boost over 20lbs. Lets say 18lbs of boost is good.
. Use ARP head studs.
I think thats everything. If Im missing anything please let me know.
................QUESTION................
Im running....
IP stage 1 with hondata flash pro.
6265 turbo
id1000's
Stock HG
pump 93 gas
Walbro Fuel pump
13lbs boost
(Made 360hp)
I would like to know how much more power I would get and how much boost I can run if....
I run IP fuel return system (for my 2007 AP2)
added inline Bosh044
Run E85
Change IP log mani for a Ram Horn Mani.
ALSO..... what if I install the IP 3mm HG.. ???
05-10-2011, 07:05 PM
#128
Originally Posted by AusS2000,May 3 2009, 05:19 PM
SCE has three types:
ICS Titan
Pro Copper
Self Sealing Titan
Which should I get?
ICS Titan
Pro Copper
Self Sealing Titan
Which should I get?
I was wrong it is actually .093" or 2.3622 mm.
Just remember you will have to retorque after it heats up the first time.
05-11-2011, 12:59 AM
#129
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Hey guys. Newbie turbo owner here. Finished my build 2 weeks ago.
I havent had time to instal my gauges yet. Gonna do them next week.
But for now Ive been using the OEM cluster temp gauge to monitor my temperature.
When I was NA it would always sit just below halfway, like 1 bar below halfway.
However since ive been turbo, ive noticed that on a few occasions the temperature has jumped a bar and sometime two bars to just over halfway! But it only lasts like a couple minutes then it returns to normal temperature.
Is this normal or do I also have an overheating issue.
Should the temperature increase now and then a bit or should it always remain constant no matter what?
BTW stock motor, stock gasket! we not doing big numbers. Less than 300hp @ 6psi.
I havent had time to instal my gauges yet. Gonna do them next week.
But for now Ive been using the OEM cluster temp gauge to monitor my temperature.
When I was NA it would always sit just below halfway, like 1 bar below halfway.
However since ive been turbo, ive noticed that on a few occasions the temperature has jumped a bar and sometime two bars to just over halfway! But it only lasts like a couple minutes then it returns to normal temperature.
Is this normal or do I also have an overheating issue.
Should the temperature increase now and then a bit or should it always remain constant no matter what?
BTW stock motor, stock gasket! we not doing big numbers. Less than 300hp @ 6psi.
05-11-2011, 07:02 AM
#130
Hey guys. Newbie turbo owner here. Finished my build 2 weeks ago.
I havent had time to instal my gauges yet. Gonna do them next week.
But for now Ive been using the OEM cluster temp gauge to monitor my temperature.
When I was NA it would always sit just below halfway, like 1 bar below halfway.
However since ive been turbo, ive noticed that on a few occasions the temperature has jumped a bar and sometime two bars to just over halfway! But it only lasts like a couple minutes then it returns to normal temperature.
Is this normal or do I also have an overheating issue.
Should the temperature increase now and then a bit or should it always remain constant no matter what?
BTW stock motor, stock gasket! we not doing big numbers. Less than 300hp @ 6psi.
I havent had time to instal my gauges yet. Gonna do them next week.
But for now Ive been using the OEM cluster temp gauge to monitor my temperature.
When I was NA it would always sit just below halfway, like 1 bar below halfway.
However since ive been turbo, ive noticed that on a few occasions the temperature has jumped a bar and sometime two bars to just over halfway! But it only lasts like a couple minutes then it returns to normal temperature.
Is this normal or do I also have an overheating issue.
Should the temperature increase now and then a bit or should it always remain constant no matter what?
BTW stock motor, stock gasket! we not doing big numbers. Less than 300hp @ 6psi.
Your stock gauge layout is on the left. As you can see, if you're halfway on the stock layout, you're at least @ 235*. That's pretty much the danger zone. Unfortunately, the resolution on the stock cluster is so bad its a crap shoot between the third and fourth bar. I wouldn't want my car going above 210*, but there's no way to know with the stock stuff.
Remember, the stock thermostat and fan come on at 190*...that's the temp the radiator and fan are trying to maintain. If you're @ 235*, there's a limitation somewhere that needs to be addressed.