Blowing Dipstick - The latest solution ? And temps
#11
105°C is well within the safe range for engine coolant in this application. Honda Type 2 coolant won't boil until 130°C with a 15psi (1bar) radiator cap and a 1.1 cap is standard (or otherwise available) so boiling point is gonna be higher. Normal street temperature runs in the 90°C range before the radiator fans activate. Oil viscosity is measured at 100°C hence higher viscosity motor oil is usually recommended if you're going to be running these temperatures. I'd try 10W-40 for starters. I'd also look at more cooling but the sky is not falling.
-- Chuck
-- Chuck
I then did 40 miles today on the roads ranging 80-85 degrees so it’s only a track issue.
#12
For those who don't track the car, 205 sounds crazy. For those that do, that's just getting warmed up with some good laps back to back.
Street driving is very different from tracking in terms of heat generation and management.
Street driving is very different from tracking in terms of heat generation and management.
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Spoolin (08-06-2024)
#14
105°C as in 221°F is what we are talking about.
Just checked an old log on my car and it was rock solid at 90°C (194°F) even after 15min track sessions, this is with an upgraded Koyo rad and no boost.
At same time oil temps did reach almost 130°C (266°F) measure in the sump, no oil cooler except the stock heat exchanger thing.
Just checked an old log on my car and it was rock solid at 90°C (194°F) even after 15min track sessions, this is with an upgraded Koyo rad and no boost.
At same time oil temps did reach almost 130°C (266°F) measure in the sump, no oil cooler except the stock heat exchanger thing.
#15
Still undecided on the solution,
I read that you can replace the PCV on an F20C AP1 with a 90 degree Non Turbo Supra PCV but that was non turbo so not great, so was thinking on an inline Supra Turbo PCV to make it better.
I think im also going to change my catch can to one like the below with two inlet ports and ill take some hose on my next track day. If it blows i will then vent to the catchcan and try that.
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/obp-...-tank-7000510/
Also ill turn around the dipstick around and if it blows and ill also make a clamp down bracket which ill maintain in my toolbox. (O rings on dipstick seem really good with a strong hold, might replace as there only be a few ££)
All options open
I read that you can replace the PCV on an F20C AP1 with a 90 degree Non Turbo Supra PCV but that was non turbo so not great, so was thinking on an inline Supra Turbo PCV to make it better.
I think im also going to change my catch can to one like the below with two inlet ports and ill take some hose on my next track day. If it blows i will then vent to the catchcan and try that.
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/obp-...-tank-7000510/
Also ill turn around the dipstick around and if it blows and ill also make a clamp down bracket which ill maintain in my toolbox. (O rings on dipstick seem really good with a strong hold, might replace as there only be a few ££)
All options open
#16
#17
I've never been a fan of bandaiding things with something holding the dipstick down. The best solution is to find out a good fix for the crankcase pressure, which is most likely the reason for the oil dipstick popping out. Especially on boosted applications. The valve cover splash plate is known to create an issue with venting, more so with the AP1's from what I have heard. What should be done is drill a series of holes into the backing plate to help the pressure escape, and get a good open to atmosphere catch can that has two inlet ports, and port both from the head to the catch can. That's just my 2 cents on the matter.
Last edited by Spoolin; 08-07-2024 at 04:27 AM.
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06S2k07Si (08-07-2024)
#18
I agree it is a bandaid. However if the car isn't tracked or driven hard all of the time this will work. At some point I plan to add something like -10 AN fittings for better venting.
The following 2 users liked this post by 06S2k07Si:
jmholloway (08-09-2024),
Spoolin (08-07-2024)
#19
I've never been a fan of bandaiding things with something holding the dipstick down. The best solution is to find out a good fix for the crankcase pressure, which is most likely the reason for the oil dipstick popping out. Especially on boosted applications. The valve cover splash plate is known to create an issue with venting, more so with the AP1's from what I have heard. What should be done is drill a series of holes into the backing plate to help the pressure escape, and get a good open to atmosphere catch can that has two inlet ports, and port both from the head to the catch can. That's just my 2 cents on the matter.
Thinking of one like this with pipe off the PCV and the front breather (so not using one as an outlet) - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/405146608...3Avlp_homepage
2) Would you remove the PCV valve or just leave it on there
Last edited by jmholloway; 08-08-2024 at 08:00 AM.
#20
1) Would you have two inlets ports and then an outlet port back to the cars inlet or would you no bother and block the inlet off?
Thinking of one like this with pipe off the PCV and the front breather (so not using one as an outlet) - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/405146608...3Avlp_homepage
2) Would you remove the PCV valve or just leave it on there
Thinking of one like this with pipe off the PCV and the front breather (so not using one as an outlet) - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/405146608...3Avlp_homepage
2) Would you remove the PCV valve or just leave it on there
The following 2 users liked this post by Spoolin:
06S2k07Si (08-08-2024),
jmholloway (08-09-2024)