B&M Fuel Gauge not working....
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Originally Posted by Scorpion,Jan 4 2006, 11:57 PM
If the gauge was working he could have figured that out I'm very interested in knowing if it can be used as a static rather than rising rate.
I guess they both have ESMs then. Too many acronyms.
I remember reading a post about converting a rising rate FPR to a static by removing the vacuum, but I also remember Fred saying it couldn't be done.
I would also check the line and banjo fitting from the gauge to the FPR.
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Originally Posted by Scorpion,Jan 4 2006, 11:44 PM
No, the FMU is a blue version of what is in that pic. The only differance in the Vortech FMU and the Comptech FMU is that the Comptech is adjustable. Both kits come with a ESM (Electronic signal modifier) which is how they change the signal form the map sensor so the ECU doesn't throw a CEL under boost.
Ok, I'm getting confused now
So the RED UFO thing is a COMPTECH FPR right, also known as a Vortech FMU, right?
I could/should remove this? If so, is there any re-routing of wiring/tubing?
My car is running fine right now other than the fuel pressure gauge not working, so should I just remove the FPR pictured above and get a new gauge?
Sorry, I'm totally confused now!
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Originally Posted by Asura,Jan 5 2006, 12:41 AM
You can REPLACE that UFO thing (comptech FPR) with a different type of (static) FPR.
BUT you must have AN FPR. OK?
BUT you must have AN FPR. OK?
Also, if it is the cause of the gauge not reading anything what kind of FPR in particular should I get?
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Ok let me see if I can clear it up...FMU stands for fuel management unit. Both Comptech and Vortech use a rising rate FPR. The red one (you have) is the comptech unit, the blue on is the vortech unit. They both do the same thing. The only differance is that you can adjust the base fuel pressure with the Comptech one.
Now should you remove it? Yes, but only if you have a stock or adjustable FPR to put on the car. The reason for this is that you have the EMS to adjust the pulse width of the injectors, and do not need a rising rate FPR to add fuel under boost.
You can leave that one in the car, but it will make tuning your fuel a nightmare. Rising rate FPRs are not very consistant. However it will work and if that is all you have then use it
If the gauge is not readin there are really only to problems. One..it's broke. Two, you are not getting fuel to the rail. If the car starts, you know it's not number 2
Now should you remove it? Yes, but only if you have a stock or adjustable FPR to put on the car. The reason for this is that you have the EMS to adjust the pulse width of the injectors, and do not need a rising rate FPR to add fuel under boost.
You can leave that one in the car, but it will make tuning your fuel a nightmare. Rising rate FPRs are not very consistant. However it will work and if that is all you have then use it
If the gauge is not readin there are really only to problems. One..it's broke. Two, you are not getting fuel to the rail. If the car starts, you know it's not number 2
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You can leave that one in the car, but it will make tuning your fuel a nightmare. Rising rate FPRs are not very consistant. However it will work and if that is all you have then use it
You can see my DYNO by going to the first post and clicking on UPGRADE. I think I'm going to leave it alone since it isn't broken, so why fix it
[QUOTE]If the gauge is not readin there are really only to problems. One..it's broke. Two, you are not getting fuel to the rail. If the car starts, you know it's not number 2
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Originally Posted by Scorpion,Jan 5 2006, 02:41 AM
I'd get a liquid filled gauge. The liquid dampens the engine vibrations, which I'd be willing to bet caused this that one to go TU.
#19
Originally Posted by C4SxM5,Jan 5 2006, 03:51 AM
any reccomendations on "liquid filled" gauges?
Shawn tuned it with the FMU installed but no vacuum to it so it acts like a regulator but not an FMU. If you change the fuel pressure by removing the FMU and don't get it the same with a new regulator you will need to retune.
You can get a good liquid filled gauge for less than $40. The AEM FPR is closer to $200.
I suggest you leave it as tuned and just replace the B&M gauge.