I see some mounting bolts, it’s hard to tell if you have all of them. But it rather looks like you do. Looks like you have all the mounting plates and brackets to mount the set up also.
Good News I guess!

As mentioned you need the banjo bolt which goes with the part that replaces the factory fpr (which mounts to your fuel rail) and the hose with fittings on each end which threads on to the CT-FPR from there.
So looks like I am missing that hose correct? So add that to a list.

I see a filter box but no filter, unless it’s in the filter box? I have a CT filter if you need one FYI
Nope I got one, Thanks tho!

From the picture it looks like the tensioner pulley is there attached to the blower plate which is right.
I think you are right

You have the tapped crank and pulley which is good.
I am confused to what that thing does?Replaces the crank pulley? I know that on the back of the BLOWER there is a Pulley as well. Will the Blower pulley be replaced with my 4" Pulley I bought to run 7psi? Or will that crank and pulley will need to be replaced to run lower boost? My blower has a 10PSI Pulley I guess right now.

Make sure that fuel pump is a higher flow then OEM.Or you will run lean and be pulling it out again.
Good point I think this is a Walboro one, however I thought our Fuel Pumps were good enough until 10psi? Do I really need to replace my stock one?

I see an aftermarket BOV, which means the Recirc valve on that elbow pipe wont be used and should be capped off/plugged which it very well may be already.
Correct, already blocked off

I might have overlooked something else possibly, but from what I’m seeing it looks like your 95% there.


Great! O and WIDEBAND will be installed today just FYI.

I guess all I really need now is...

1) Fuel Block Off Plate & Bonjo bolt
2) Braided hose that goes from fuel rail to FPR
2) NOVI 1000 mounting bracket bolts with new washers that have rubber inserts in them.
3) New return line for the blower.
4) Pick up at local store 6ft 5/32 hose, wiring/crimp connectors/terminal adapters for the fuel pump, and teflon/PTFE tape.

Right?

 

I'm in the same boat as you kinda, and am replacing some parts. Lucky for me I have the pre 04' kit that doesn't even have isolators or that extra lower mount.

A problem I have though is with the tensioner bracket. How is this attached to the main bracket? Is there a spacer washer between the two or does the tensioner sit right on top? Then its just a bolt and some washers to connect it?

 

My kit is Pre 2004? What are isolators or what mount you speak of?

 

When I spoke to comptech trying to order parts, they said I had an early kit and they don't even have a parts list for mine. They said it was a pre 04 kit?

Those had no washers with rubber bushings with them and didn't include the extra 3-4 bolts on the vtec block and the extra aluminum mount on the lower passenger side.

The hardware for mine is basically the same, it's just difficult finding the part numbers without a labeled diagram.

Really im just down to the pivot point for the tensioner bracket. I'm not sure of what washers, bolts or nuts were used. And most importantly if there was a washer in between that arm with the pulley on it and the main plate.

 

I don’t have my car right in front of me, but I’m almost positive that tensioner bracket is mounted to the blower plate directly with no washers in between. One 14mm bolt (same as the other bracket bolts but shorter) just threads into the tensioner bracket and swivels when loosened to adjust belt tension. if you have a washer in-between, its not much surface area to grab onto when tightening, you don’t want the arm to loosen up on you and get belt slip.

 

Great thanks! Everything is slowly coming together.

I wa able to get the oil feed fitting on the vtec block, the Sc drain fitting and the oil pan fitting at my local brake shop for $20! I know ct was charging $20 each lol.

 

Any update? I'm still on the fence with mine.

Turns out I have a really, really early kit. No rubber bushings and more prone to cracking. This will also increase vibrations. Ct said I'd be ok. I mean this kit has seen several cars over about 10 years with no cracks on the pieces at all. I searched the forum and found a guy had cracked his head! I don't know...

The plate and all the pieces are being powdercoated right now, but maybe I should just get the updated stuff.

 

Just buy the rubber bushings....there's 9 of them.

$25 each from CT-Engineering....

 

They won't fit my 00-02 ct plate.

Of course, I gave nate at comptech a call and they don't carry the plates anymore due to paxon discontinuing the 1000.

He did assure me that I shouldnt have any problems. I'm thinking of just installing some rubber/ neoprene washers on both sides of the plate. I'll sandwich them with metal washers.

 

Its been done before and about the only alternative, just pick good large/thick sizes to keep the rubber from deforming and squeezing out too much when you tighten. Hope your local hardware store has a good assortment to choose from.