Glad this thread is of help. I went from knowing nothing to feeling pretty confident about my Comptech kit and knowing how it works and how to troubleshoot and maintain.

 

so where was the killer gas chamber gas smell coming from?

 

So again, in May of 2011 you said you wanted to do this... Not sure when you started install but it was like November 2011 before you were happy. Does this kit suck more than other kits in that it takes months to get it to work? Understand some adjustments and tuning is necessary but there were real times of despare that you were down and out and no answer in sight. I do not believe kits work like this. You custom on your own that is what you expect, however not necessarily want! But in kits you are paying to have this tech details work out. YOu got help but look at the hassle you went through....

 

What are you talking about?

The only hassle was that Rising Rate Pressure Regulator couldn't handle added boost my pulley made. 7psi vs 5.5 suggested by Comptech. For some RRFPR works with 7psi, for me it didn't.

This had nothing to do with Comptech, Kit or parts. I also never paid anyone trying to figure this out. I did my own work, install, diagnostics and made a decision to buy an ECU and get a tune. Once decision was made I Contacted Scott @ Ballistic who took care of the rest.

Due to me running higher boost... I had to get an ECU and a tune.


This hassle was my own fault.

 

343 @ 7psi?! Holy fawkin shit thats high, you get that measured on churchs dyno? Either way, nice numbers

 

Those are DynaPack, wheels off, measure from the hub. Freshly installed plugs, filter, etc.

So 8 months later or some I dynod again last week, 300/200 on DynoJet which I knew FELT like the correct numbers from the beginning. I also never see 7psi? Only 6. Probably the Boost gauge is off.


Dyno Sheet should be up soon.

 

I only see a max of just a hair over 5psi on my guage when I have it connected.

I pull 306/196 at a nominal 6psi pulley, Mustang dyno.

 

I have just installed the novi 1000 on my AP1, with the stock pulley and am using the FPR. The FPR had about 2 threads showing when I got it(used, not from Comptech. Where is a good starting point to have the set screw?

I'm new to FI and have a few questions in regards to wideband tuning. I understand idle and cruising AFR's by reading what you all previously mentioned, but what kind of numbers are you all getting under partial throttle? Should it jump in the rich zone and back? Also, when you all are posting your key AFR's at particular RPM's this is all at WOT, correct? Or am I wrong? I guess I'm confused when reading the target numbers at certain RPM's. Where someone mentioned, 11's pre vtec, that's at WOT correct? Under partial throttle at the same RPM it would run leaner due to less fuel right?

If someone wouldn't mind discussing the characteristics of the gauge for me I'd really appreciate it. I don't want to run the car too much until I have fully grasped this.

 

Startup: 20>17.3>15.4>14.7 as the car warmps up, why such lean AFR at start? Air Pump for emissions, due to it pumping air it gives leaner reading than actual numbers.

Idle: 14.7 (+/- 0.5)


Cruise: 14.7 ( as you accelerate more and more it should stay the same or get more and more rich.)

Full Throttle: You should see 11ish AFR > 13.4ish SPIKE @ vtec > 12.4 all the way to redline.



That was my experience with FPR. I would also back off on the screw about 3 threads if you are running stock pulley. Just do a few runs and watch that AFR, keep backing off untill its perfect and you see low 12s all the way to redline once in vtec.

 

Thanks! I thought I was understanding it right, but had no confirmation.

Maybe someone can answer this for me. I have an Innovate LM-2 that I'm using to watch AFR etc. and am able to datalog etc. I can read MAP, but since I am using the ESM does it change anything in regards to the reading or just right at vtec? Trying to judge if it is going to be correct or not to watch boost.