air/oil separators on big HP setups
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hey guys,
I posted in the underhood forum, but I hope it may get answered here:
So....I know this has been beaten to death around here, but I am going to revive it.
First let me explain my setup:
InlinePro F24C
17psi
505whp/375wTQ
I am looking into Air/oil separators and am about 1 day from pulling the trigger and drilling/welding 4 -10AN lines in the valve cover and running a $300+ Air/oil separator
to keep my dipstick from blowing out.
MY QUESTION IS THIS:
have any of you forced induction guys NOT run 4 fittings on the valve cover and just used the PCV line to connect something like this?:
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/52205/10002/-1
do I HAVE TO go crazy and run 4 fittings and a large capacity separator?
Will a smaller separator work, if I am just checking its level more frequently?
If you run 4 fittings and a large separator, is it ONLY for the capacity(i.e 2liters versus 1 or smaller) or does adding the 4 fittings and running 3 filter elements become THAT important at certain boost/power levels?
Any of you big HP running small/cheap DIY separators with no issues?
Also, if you have one, could you post pictures of your setup?
The search function on this forum sucks and gives u 20 pages of the same damned thread.
HELP A NUKKKKKA OUT!
p.s. for your troubles:
![](http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c355/viggenman/F24CDynoGraph.jpg)
(ignore the date---lower line is 10psi)
I posted in the underhood forum, but I hope it may get answered here:
So....I know this has been beaten to death around here, but I am going to revive it.
First let me explain my setup:
InlinePro F24C
17psi
505whp/375wTQ
I am looking into Air/oil separators and am about 1 day from pulling the trigger and drilling/welding 4 -10AN lines in the valve cover and running a $300+ Air/oil separator
to keep my dipstick from blowing out.
MY QUESTION IS THIS:
have any of you forced induction guys NOT run 4 fittings on the valve cover and just used the PCV line to connect something like this?:
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/52205/10002/-1
do I HAVE TO go crazy and run 4 fittings and a large capacity separator?
Will a smaller separator work, if I am just checking its level more frequently?
If you run 4 fittings and a large separator, is it ONLY for the capacity(i.e 2liters versus 1 or smaller) or does adding the 4 fittings and running 3 filter elements become THAT important at certain boost/power levels?
Any of you big HP running small/cheap DIY separators with no issues?
Also, if you have one, could you post pictures of your setup?
The search function on this forum sucks and gives u 20 pages of the same damned thread.
HELP A NUKKKKKA OUT!
p.s. for your troubles:
![](http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c355/viggenman/F24CDynoGraph.jpg)
(ignore the date---lower line is 10psi)
![](http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c355/viggenman/carbons2000019.jpg)
#2
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4 fittings for your setup is overkill.
2, -10 fittings is sufficient, plumb those into a catch can of your choice, and call it a day. Just make sure the can is vented.
Don't make it harder than it is (no offense).
2, -10 fittings is sufficient, plumb those into a catch can of your choice, and call it a day. Just make sure the can is vented.
Don't make it harder than it is (no offense).
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Originally Posted by siadam,Nov 16 2010, 09:05 PM
4 fittings for your setup is overkill.
2, -10 fittings is sufficient, plumb those into a catch can of your choice, and call it a day. Just make sure the can is vented.
Don't make it harder than it is (no offense).
2, -10 fittings is sufficient, plumb those into a catch can of your choice, and call it a day. Just make sure the can is vented.
Don't make it harder than it is (no offense).
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/52205/10002/-1
adam,
I checked out the one you had for sale. did yours prevent the dipstick from blowing out?
it looks like the ABspeed a/o/coolant overflow minus the coolant over, did u model it off of theirs? How much oil did you collect in yours on a regular basis?
also, did you keep your PCV valve and just run a line from the PCV valve to the a/o sep. and then from the a/o sep. to the intake manifold?
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this has been on my mind a long time. how many people have actually seen there dipstick blow out on the dyno?
mine here and there pops out under normal driving, but i think its more becuase im lowered on stiff coilover setup and i hit hard bumps and that thing just pops up a bit. i have over 60 passes on the dyno and its never popped out on the dyno. so it leads me to beleive it pops out from hard bumps on the road.
mine here and there pops out under normal driving, but i think its more becuase im lowered on stiff coilover setup and i hit hard bumps and that thing just pops up a bit. i have over 60 passes on the dyno and its never popped out on the dyno. so it leads me to beleive it pops out from hard bumps on the road.
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No problem with my setup, in fact the dipstick has never popped out once, never on the dyno nor on the road. Though I'm only running 370BHP @the crank.
I have a catchcan that has...
a) 2 inflows ports on the top of catchcan, from the front and back breather ports on the cam case.
b) both the inflows port have pipes that run half down into the catchcan
c) halfway down on the outside i have a mini k&n breather.
d) stainless steel brillo pads inside
Why is it setup like this?
The brillopads act as oil/air separators thus oil clings to the brillopads making catch the oil more effective. The inflow ports pipes inside go halfway down the CC so the oil mist doesnt take the easier route back up through the ports/filter and forces it to flow through the brillopads.
I noticed that the mini filter when orginally placed ontop, and adding brillopads its now much more effective, plus the mini filter doesnt get caked up as much as it used to.
Both the intake manifold port and return to the air intake pipe are capped off.
I have a catchcan that has...
a) 2 inflows ports on the top of catchcan, from the front and back breather ports on the cam case.
b) both the inflows port have pipes that run half down into the catchcan
c) halfway down on the outside i have a mini k&n breather.
d) stainless steel brillo pads inside
Why is it setup like this?
The brillopads act as oil/air separators thus oil clings to the brillopads making catch the oil more effective. The inflow ports pipes inside go halfway down the CC so the oil mist doesnt take the easier route back up through the ports/filter and forces it to flow through the brillopads.
I noticed that the mini filter when orginally placed ontop, and adding brillopads its now much more effective, plus the mini filter doesnt get caked up as much as it used to.
Both the intake manifold port and return to the air intake pipe are capped off.
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my 500whp run on the dyno, blowing out the dipstick:[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ctYvBC3zeBo [/media]