Aem Ems-Umm?!? Dead Temp Gauge as usual
10-20-2010, 08:12 AM
#11
Originally Posted by wait4vtec,Oct 20 2010, 12:05 PM
i have a series two and would like to be able to see my temps, can someone tell me a specific guage i could buy in order too see my engine temps while driving
http://www.aemelectronics.com/gauges-26/se...tream-gauge-33/
10-20-2010, 08:12 AM
#12
Originally Posted by wait4vtec,Oct 20 2010, 08:05 AM
i have a series two and would like to be able to see my temps, can someone tell me a specific guage i could buy in order too see my engine temps while driving
10-20-2010, 12:21 PM
#14
Originally Posted by killabee,Oct 20 2010, 11:12 AM
My temp reads full bar right from jump and has always been that way. My aftermarket temp guage always reads good temp even when all the bars are lit up.
10-20-2010, 01:53 PM
#15
update...turns out temps are WELL within spec so I still have no idea why the temp gauge is reading full...my friend who has a modded evo came over with his usb to serial adapter and it worked perfectly so I guess I need to get rid of my $55 belkin for one like his $15 model...damn it 
On a side note...we went and did 2 pulls 1 n/a and 1 NITROUS
...0 knock on both...and an interesting note...when the nitrous starts spraying I have a 30 DEGREE DROP in coolant temperatures well at the sensor anyways lol
On a side note...we went and did 2 pulls 1 n/a and 1 NITROUS
...0 knock on both...and an interesting note...when the nitrous starts spraying I have a 30 DEGREE DROP in coolant temperatures well at the sensor anyways lol
10-20-2010, 09:37 PM
#20
First, I agree that if you're running a Series 1 you need at least a coolant temp gauge (any aftermarket tune should have a wideband, but that's a different story).
Second, this sounds like an electrical problem. The ECT uses a simple temp sensor - when the coolant is cold, the sensor is full open. As coolant temp rises, the sensor elements draw closer together providing a lower resistance. It would appear that you have a short somewhere - either the sensor is bad and shorted (and you're reading the radiator coolant sensor in your EMS) or somewhere between the EMS and gauge cluster you have a short.
The Series 2 does indeed display in the stock cluster, but you'll need the proper calibration settings for it to display properly. A google search can find those cals for you.
Second, this sounds like an electrical problem. The ECT uses a simple temp sensor - when the coolant is cold, the sensor is full open. As coolant temp rises, the sensor elements draw closer together providing a lower resistance. It would appear that you have a short somewhere - either the sensor is bad and shorted (and you're reading the radiator coolant sensor in your EMS) or somewhere between the EMS and gauge cluster you have a short.
The Series 2 does indeed display in the stock cluster, but you'll need the proper calibration settings for it to display properly. A google search can find those cals for you.