Accessory Power
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Accessory Power
Ok, I'm curious what everyone is using for accessory power. I posted a similar thread a yr ago, but can't seem to find it now (figures).
There was a picture posted that I can't seem to find either (thought I saved it) on my pc of the accessory "ports" on the fuse panel under the dash on the drivers side.
One was labeled "constant" and the other "accessory" I believe.
Also, I am wondering what is the total volts/amps you can use from it, b/c it's not a fused circuit that I can tell.
Thoughts?
I am looking to rewire my BAS, as well as a few other items while the car is down.
Thanks in advance.
There was a picture posted that I can't seem to find either (thought I saved it) on my pc of the accessory "ports" on the fuse panel under the dash on the drivers side.
One was labeled "constant" and the other "accessory" I believe.
Also, I am wondering what is the total volts/amps you can use from it, b/c it's not a fused circuit that I can tell.
Thoughts?
I am looking to rewire my BAS, as well as a few other items while the car is down.
Thanks in advance.
#2
Registered User
I scanned this in from my manual, I labeled which "ports" do what, and no, it's not fused but can take a huge load. It's like 10 gauge wire going in to the back of it. So just fuse it externally for whatever circuit you are adding.
#3
Use this tag to activate your own relay which is sized and fused to the specs you need.
Most relays are 30 amps maximum some are only 15 check on the box. If I need more than 80% of a relays specked amp rating I always use two in parallel.
Most relays are 30 amps maximum some are only 15 check on the box. If I need more than 80% of a relays specked amp rating I always use two in parallel.
#6
Registered User
Your typical female spade connector fits good on those terminals. I use the insulated ones, or heat shrink over the connector if I can't find or have insulated ones.
#7
Registered User
Just FYI, the one that is labeled "switched or ignition" doesn't supply any power while cranking the car.
When I bought my car I spent months trying to figure out why it was hard to start, come to find out the injector driver was powered off that socket and has no power while cranking....imagine that.....just a heads up to prevent months of potential headaches and troubleshooting...
When I bought my car I spent months trying to figure out why it was hard to start, come to find out the injector driver was powered off that socket and has no power while cranking....imagine that.....just a heads up to prevent months of potential headaches and troubleshooting...
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#9
Originally Posted by MugenRioS2k,Jan 18 2011, 12:26 PM
Use this tag to activate your own relay which is sized and fused to the specs you need.
Most relays are 30 amps maximum some are only 15 check on the box. If I need more than 80% of a relays specked amp rating I always use two in parallel.
Most relays are 30 amps maximum some are only 15 check on the box. If I need more than 80% of a relays specked amp rating I always use two in parallel.
#10
Originally Posted by boostedf22c,Jan 18 2011, 02:09 PM
Just FYI, the one that is labeled "switched or ignition" doesn't supply any power while cranking the car.
When I bought my car I spent months trying to figure out why it was hard to start, come to find out the injector driver was powered off that socket and has no power while cranking....imagine that.....just a heads up to prevent months of potential headaches and troubleshooting...
When I bought my car I spent months trying to figure out why it was hard to start, come to find out the injector driver was powered off that socket and has no power while cranking....imagine that.....just a heads up to prevent months of potential headaches and troubleshooting...
AKA switched power to the radio shuts off during cranking..
a "true switched" power maintains battery voltage even during cranking. AAK switched power to the ECU