Yeah pretty impressive difference switching to 3.5. Would have been nice to get some data on exhaust pressures in the manifold and exhaust just to see pressure changes.

Hopefully recirculating the gates doesn't cost me too much.

 

Started on the downpipe and was getting frustrated with the marmon flange on the turbo. Decided to put a centering ring on the turbine outlet since the marmon vband moves around so much.

Had to notch the housing. A lathe would have been real nice to use, but a die grinder was all I had.



























Downpipe is about a half inch from the frame. It should be ok with oem mounts. If I have to I'll reinstall some stiffer mounts to keep things from moving too much.

 

Dump tubes are almost done. Would like to introduce them back into the exhaust further down, but it'll have to do about 6-8" from the turbine.







The red line is about the height of the frame. Should be able to keep it at or above the line easily. Was also going to try and use a bend to re-enter the exhaust. I ended up using a straight piece though as the bend didn't work out.
















Looking up from the bottom of the downpipe. I let the dumptube protrude into the downpipe to possibly help extract wastegate exhaust. Though the pressure differential probably makes the dumptubes work by themselves.






Probably made more work for myself by not planning welds in tight spots. Had to bend the tungsten to fix my issue.









Getting the second dump mocked up. Pointing them upward was done to give me more space and have a more gradual merge.










And finally test fit in the car. The flex sections are about 1/16" apart.

 

Badass man!

Wish you lived near me and could help me sort out my setup and finish it. LOL

 

What all do you need done? St. Louis is sort of close lol.





Got the second gate recirculated. The dump pulled on me while welding so I had to cut and readjust the top side near the vband.






Also bought a really old lathe from a friend from work. I'm hoping to refurbish it when I get time, but I needed to shorten a spacer for my hydraulic bearing first. I'm switching clutches from a fx725 to a fx850.

There is a sprung disc on the 850 clutch.
















Hopefully there aren't any issues with the throwout bearing being close to the edge of the pressure plate fingers. The contact area of the bearing is centered about a tenth of an inch from the edge of the fingers.








Also there wasn't any washers or torque plate supplied with this clutch. I just used a spare oem torque plate and grinded it down to fit. The material is too hard for my saw blade, so I had to grind it all out. Was a pain, but I'd rather not have the bolts turning against the aluminum flywheel.








I measured everything and transferred it to the computer so I could see if there is any interference. This also helped me with getting the release bearing/pressure plate air-gap.





Hopefully there aren't any more surprises and it'll be able to get reassembled this weekend.

 

Very nice mod on the torque plate. Would washers have worked as well, instead?

Yeah, you're not too far from me, as I live near Louisville KY, but Carey Bales is getting my S soon to finish it all for me and get it ready for 1/2 mile events. Otherwise, I'd bring it to you. There is more than just fab work needed to get mine done unfortunately. It needs caged, the built engine, trans and diff put in, wiring, and fab work to get her completed. I've just run out of time with our home build and new brick and mortar business starting up recently.

 

Not that it really matters at this point, but ARP makes some very nice flywheel bolts with a much thicker head so there is no chance of rounding the edges off, plus they specifically say not to use a spacer/washer with theirs. I used them with my CD009/CM twin, had to use a skinny 19mm on em to fit in though

 

ARP doesn't make flywheel bolts for the S2000 or they didn't a while back when I was looking. I had to order new OEM instead.

 

It's not specifically listed for the S2000 I forgot what the size/thread pitch even is. Something like a 12mmx 1.75? Anyway, ARP makes a flywheel bolts that are the same dimensions but like 2mm longer listed for a chevy I think. Works fine and is WAY better than the stock bolt

 

Good to know, thanks.