dsddcd

So, I am debating on pulling the head to lower the compression with a gasket and the transmission needs a rebuild. I figured I might as well pull the block and do some work. The question I have is what should I do when I get the block out. I am looking for conservative HP and torque numbers around 450-500FWHP which I am assuming is around 20PSI. As the heading reads should I overbore or just install new bearings, pistons and hardware? I would like to keep the cost to a minimum so I would prefer to reuse any factory components that are adequately sized. With my engine goals in mind what would you recommend. Here is the list I have so far what are your thoughts?

9:1 pistons and Rings
Factory Head Gaskets
Main Bearings
Thrust Bearing
ARP Rod Bolt
Hone cylinders (Baring they don't need rebored)
Balance Rotating Assembly
Use Original Rods and Crank
Should the mains be line honed?
Are there other wear items like the time chain and tensioned that need to go?
Has anyone ever o-ringed the block and head?

Ported Head
New Valve Retainers
Do I need heavier springs with the factory Cams
Should the bearings be replaced

Ported Intake
Hondata Gasket

Edited: This will be done to the stock f20c with 40,000 miles

03silver2000

what motor are you talking about s2000? or something else?
You said FWHP....
Jordan

dsddcd

Fly Wheel Horse Power rather than Rear Wheel Horse Power.

I have a stock AP1 with 40,000 miles

ChefJ

Yea there are many more displacement posibilities with the b series h series k series I am assuming you are talking about our f series motors. Some of the things you mentioned are useless. All of them have been discussed before.

DeadZero

if you want flywheel hp just get a S/C and get it Dyno'd at Church Automotive. You will hit 500 FWHP EASILY. Stock Block Too

dsddcd

Yes, I know that there are a lot of people making this kind of power on the stock short block with a head gasket. Problem is the a gasket is not the best way to lower compressoion in fact there are lots of disadvantages.

This questions is more aimed at when I rebuild, what are the weak links and what is the best way to enjoy the car without having to pull the motor again in 10-20K miles.

DeadZero

you would have to rebuild. Our Car's wern't designed for Boost and eventually they will fall apart if you turn the boost up. There are people tho who run stock boost on s/c and have been running it over 100k miles don't get me wrong on that. BUT if you want more power you will eventually have to rebuild the motor but then again...its all in the tune but TIME is still plays a role in HOW LONG it will last

ChefJ

^ you need to do some more research. "Our" motors were build to last and put together very well. Just because they weren't "built fo boost" doesn't mean they can't handle it.

rob!

i dont know why you would go with factory rods if you are pretty much doing a full rebuild. I am also pretty sure you would have to sleeve the block if you use aftermarket pistons.

camuman

if your doing a full rebuild, hit up laskey racing. they sell a turn key bottom end for around 3400ish.

if your gonna do it yourself, resleeve the block, the most you can overbore is 2.1L. i think the only difference between a f20 and f22 is the crank, so you can easily go to 2.2 and keep stock bore. or you can go nutz and stroke to 2.5. no matter what you pick, as long as you use aftermarket forged internals, resleeved, should be rock solid. the main thing you will gain from going larger displacement is more power sooner, and a bit more peak power

i personally think a built 2.0 should be just fine.