What are some better door speakers
09-11-2012, 02:21 AM
#11
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Location: Hopedale, MA
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SONY DSX X300BXT head unit Output Power :
Standard Power Output: 17 Watts RMS per channel into 4 Ohms
52W Max Power
Well even if you bought the cheapest Alpine coax speaker they offer, the Alpine SPE-6000... it still has a power rating of Power Rating: 60 Watts
Power Handling Capacity (RMS): 60 Watts
Power Handling Capacity (Peak): 240 Watts
So you have a HU that make 17w RMS powering speakers looking for at least 60 w RMS... that's a big difference.
So yeah your HU is not even close. Those speakers should be getting at least 75-100 watts to run properly. If you put an Alpine MRX-F65 amp to those... they would sing. The difference is night and day.
Any of these amps will work:
Alpine MRX-F65 4/3/2 Channel Power Amplifier ($349)
Alphasonik PMA6002F - 2-Channel 500W RMS Class AB MOSFET Amplifier ($99)
Audison LRX 2.150 - 2 Ch 220 Watt Amplifier ($349)
Cadence XA175.2 - 2 Channel 175 Watt Class AB Stereo Amplifier ($129)
Soundstream RUB2.250 - 2 Ch. 250 Watt RMS Rubicon Series A/B Class Amplifier ($129)
Standard Power Output: 17 Watts RMS per channel into 4 Ohms
52W Max Power
Well even if you bought the cheapest Alpine coax speaker they offer, the Alpine SPE-6000... it still has a power rating of Power Rating: 60 Watts
Power Handling Capacity (RMS): 60 Watts
Power Handling Capacity (Peak): 240 Watts
So you have a HU that make 17w RMS powering speakers looking for at least 60 w RMS... that's a big difference.
So yeah your HU is not even close. Those speakers should be getting at least 75-100 watts to run properly. If you put an Alpine MRX-F65 amp to those... they would sing. The difference is night and day.
Any of these amps will work:
Alpine MRX-F65 4/3/2 Channel Power Amplifier ($349)
Alphasonik PMA6002F - 2-Channel 500W RMS Class AB MOSFET Amplifier ($99)
Audison LRX 2.150 - 2 Ch 220 Watt Amplifier ($349)
Cadence XA175.2 - 2 Channel 175 Watt Class AB Stereo Amplifier ($129)
Soundstream RUB2.250 - 2 Ch. 250 Watt RMS Rubicon Series A/B Class Amplifier ($129)
09-11-2012, 06:25 AM
#13
I'm in the same boat with aftermarket speaker connected to an Alpine HU. I would like to also wire in an amp to drive the speakers, but I'm a little confused by the amp list you provided in relation to the speakers.
The speakers handle 60 watt RMS, but the amps you listed are way higher, e.g. 500 W RMS Alphasonik. Wouldn't this amp be too much for the speaker?
The speakers handle 60 watt RMS, but the amps you listed are way higher, e.g. 500 W RMS Alphasonik. Wouldn't this amp be too much for the speaker?
09-11-2012, 02:04 PM
#14
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Its always better to have an amp that is rated higher than the wattage required.
The reason is 2 fold:
1. The amp will not have to work as hard and will not be running at its limits.
2. If a speaker (say those Alpines we mentioned earlier) which has an RMS of 60w and a peak of 240w you can run them all day long at about 100-150w while not maxing out the speakers or the amp.
Over powering a speaker is actually better then under powered. Amp have gain controls on them to adjust the power to the speakers so that you can balance out the system properly.
Another thing you have to keep in mind cheaper amps tend to over state the actual power output of the amp... where as a more expensive amp will actually produce more power than what actually on the side of the box. Alpine is known for this. Audison's tend to be pretty well on but still understated. The rest of that list can vary from the professed amp output.
If you have the brand and exact model number of the speakers you have I can suggest what amp would work good for you.
The reason is 2 fold:
1. The amp will not have to work as hard and will not be running at its limits.
2. If a speaker (say those Alpines we mentioned earlier) which has an RMS of 60w and a peak of 240w you can run them all day long at about 100-150w while not maxing out the speakers or the amp.
Over powering a speaker is actually better then under powered. Amp have gain controls on them to adjust the power to the speakers so that you can balance out the system properly.
Another thing you have to keep in mind cheaper amps tend to over state the actual power output of the amp... where as a more expensive amp will actually produce more power than what actually on the side of the box. Alpine is known for this. Audison's tend to be pretty well on but still understated. The rest of that list can vary from the professed amp output.
If you have the brand and exact model number of the speakers you have I can suggest what amp would work good for you.
09-11-2012, 02:08 PM
#15
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someone please correct me if i am wrong but the 500W is when its bridged powering one speaker - a sub - while bridged, that particular amp puts out 250W RMS at 4ohm and 150W at 2ohm. from what i have heard 2ohm gives better sound quality over 4ohm, but its debatable. bottom line is that the alpine HU will struggle suppling the needed juice, sacrificing sound quality in the process.
That is correct
09-12-2012, 07:03 AM
#17
Its always better to have an amp that is rated higher than the wattage required.
The reason is 2 fold:
1. The amp will not have to work as hard and will not be running at its limits.
2. If a speaker (say those Alpines we mentioned earlier) which has an RMS of 60w and a peak of 240w you can run them all day long at about 100-150w while not maxing out the speakers or the amp.
Over powering a speaker is actually better then under powered. Amp have gain controls on them to adjust the power to the speakers so that you can balance out the system properly.
Another thing you have to keep in mind cheaper amps tend to over state the actual power output of the amp... where as a more expensive amp will actually produce more power than what actually on the side of the box. Alpine is known for this. Audison's tend to be pretty well on but still understated. The rest of that list can vary from the professed amp output.
If you have the brand and exact model number of the speakers you have I can suggest what amp would work good for you.
The reason is 2 fold:
1. The amp will not have to work as hard and will not be running at its limits.
2. If a speaker (say those Alpines we mentioned earlier) which has an RMS of 60w and a peak of 240w you can run them all day long at about 100-150w while not maxing out the speakers or the amp.
Over powering a speaker is actually better then under powered. Amp have gain controls on them to adjust the power to the speakers so that you can balance out the system properly.
Another thing you have to keep in mind cheaper amps tend to over state the actual power output of the amp... where as a more expensive amp will actually produce more power than what actually on the side of the box. Alpine is known for this. Audison's tend to be pretty well on but still understated. The rest of that list can vary from the professed amp output.
If you have the brand and exact model number of the speakers you have I can suggest what amp would work good for you.
Kicker 11DS62 6.5" Component Speakers
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_206DS62...-2.html?tp=106
Direct fit with no cutting.
Alpine CDE-122
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500CDE1...e-CDE-122.html
Streams Pandora right off the iphone through USB
We didn't install the crossovers since the speakers were wired through the harness to the head unit. I have no intention of ever installing subwoofers or getting any fancier speakers than what's installed, so no upgrade concerns.
Thanks for the knowledge
09-12-2012, 10:06 AM
#18
best thing you can do by far...add rear speakers. I have a JVC headunit with Polk coaxials in the front and 5x7 Polk coaxials in the rear...and it sounds amazing. I can drive 80 on the highway with the top down and everything sounds good. I bet if my speakers were better all around with and amp...that would be insane. Having just front speakers is not enough. Don't knock it unless you have heard it.
I live in the Sacramento area...if anyone wants to hear it...let me know.
I live in the Sacramento area...if anyone wants to hear it...let me know.
09-12-2012, 02:46 PM
#19
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Originally Posted by darkknight1999' timestamp='1347401075' post='22004803
Its always better to have an amp that is rated higher than the wattage required.
The reason is 2 fold:
1. The amp will not have to work as hard and will not be running at its limits.
2. If a speaker (say those Alpines we mentioned earlier) which has an RMS of 60w and a peak of 240w you can run them all day long at about 100-150w while not maxing out the speakers or the amp.
Over powering a speaker is actually better then under powered. Amp have gain controls on them to adjust the power to the speakers so that you can balance out the system properly.
Another thing you have to keep in mind cheaper amps tend to over state the actual power output of the amp... where as a more expensive amp will actually produce more power than what actually on the side of the box. Alpine is known for this. Audison's tend to be pretty well on but still understated. The rest of that list can vary from the professed amp output.
If you have the brand and exact model number of the speakers you have I can suggest what amp would work good for you.
The reason is 2 fold:
1. The amp will not have to work as hard and will not be running at its limits.
2. If a speaker (say those Alpines we mentioned earlier) which has an RMS of 60w and a peak of 240w you can run them all day long at about 100-150w while not maxing out the speakers or the amp.
Over powering a speaker is actually better then under powered. Amp have gain controls on them to adjust the power to the speakers so that you can balance out the system properly.
Another thing you have to keep in mind cheaper amps tend to over state the actual power output of the amp... where as a more expensive amp will actually produce more power than what actually on the side of the box. Alpine is known for this. Audison's tend to be pretty well on but still understated. The rest of that list can vary from the professed amp output.
If you have the brand and exact model number of the speakers you have I can suggest what amp would work good for you.
Kicker 11DS62 6.5" Component Speakers
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_206DS62...-2.html?tp=106
Direct fit with no cutting.
Alpine CDE-122
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500CDE1...e-CDE-122.html
Streams Pandora right off the iphone through USB
We didn't install the crossovers since the speakers were wired through the harness to the head unit. I have no intention of ever installing subwoofers or getting any fancier speakers than what's installed, so no upgrade concerns.
Thanks for the knowledge
So I'm a little confused, you say you dont want to get fancier... but at the same time it looks like youre asking about getting an amp. So which it? lol
Why did you leave the crossover out? Why didnt you just run new wires from the HU to the cross over and then properly wire in the speakers?
How exactly did you hook up the woofer and the tweeter??? 
09-13-2012, 11:14 AM
#20
I don't want to get any fancier after the amp install. I have no intention of adding a subwoofer down the line or additional speakers behind the seats. In other words, I don't need an amp to grow into, just an amp to handle the existing speakers.
The door speakers and the HU were connected to the stock harness with the wiring adapters from Crutchfield.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120710...s.html?tp=3097
When we installed it, the idea was to stick with the simple install with the adapters and run dedicated wires when we add the amp later.
The door speakers and the HU were connected to the stock harness with the wiring adapters from Crutchfield.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120710...s.html?tp=3097
When we installed it, the idea was to stick with the simple install with the adapters and run dedicated wires when we add the amp later.