Very Odd Audio / Fuse Problem!
07-19-2004, 09:39 AM
#1
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Very Odd Audio / Fuse Problem!
Are ALL fuses made the same (assuming they are of the same amp rating). For example, is an 80 amp fuse the SAME (internally) no matter what brand or manufacturer?
I had a strange thing happen: My subs went out suddenly (dead), and the amp powering them had a red "protection mode" light on. I checked the actual fuse IN the amp, and it is fine.
However, looking at the distribution block I noticed that there are two fuses there ( for the two amps, 1 for powering cabin/ door speakers, and the other for the subs) that have "mini blue lights" inside the actual fuse, and that one (the one for the sub amp) was NOT lit at all.
I still get fine sound from my cabin speakers (the blue lit fuse), so I simply "switched" the "lit" fuse with the "dead" one, and just like that the subs WORKED again, but the cabin was silent...so it seemed logical enough that the fuse is the "culprit"--
By the way, when I switched fuses (the good one to the sub amp) the sub amp went OUT of "protection" mode and the subs were pumping as well as ever!
The problem is now that I went to replace the "dead" fuse with a generic fuse of the same amperage (80 amp), but I cannot find one with the blue internal light!
Thinking it would not matter, I put a new 80 amp fuse in the block, and NOTHING! I even switched them, and again, the "new generic" fuse (without the blue internal light) did nothing! I even went to a local Stereo shop and they said they had never seen that type of fuse before, and were totally STUMPED as to why a "generic" fuse (without the light) would not work...
SO, what is the deal with these fuses? Is this "blue fuse" a special thing or what?
Or am I missing something here?
Please advise with ideas/ suggestions (other than to order another "blue" fuse from where I got the block!!--which I am planning to do)
TIA,
HMB
I had a strange thing happen: My subs went out suddenly (dead), and the amp powering them had a red "protection mode" light on. I checked the actual fuse IN the amp, and it is fine.
However, looking at the distribution block I noticed that there are two fuses there ( for the two amps, 1 for powering cabin/ door speakers, and the other for the subs) that have "mini blue lights" inside the actual fuse, and that one (the one for the sub amp) was NOT lit at all.
I still get fine sound from my cabin speakers (the blue lit fuse), so I simply "switched" the "lit" fuse with the "dead" one, and just like that the subs WORKED again, but the cabin was silent...so it seemed logical enough that the fuse is the "culprit"--
By the way, when I switched fuses (the good one to the sub amp) the sub amp went OUT of "protection" mode and the subs were pumping as well as ever!
The problem is now that I went to replace the "dead" fuse with a generic fuse of the same amperage (80 amp), but I cannot find one with the blue internal light!
Thinking it would not matter, I put a new 80 amp fuse in the block, and NOTHING! I even switched them, and again, the "new generic" fuse (without the blue internal light) did nothing! I even went to a local Stereo shop and they said they had never seen that type of fuse before, and were totally STUMPED as to why a "generic" fuse (without the light) would not work...
SO, what is the deal with these fuses? Is this "blue fuse" a special thing or what?
Or am I missing something here?
Please advise with ideas/ suggestions (other than to order another "blue" fuse from where I got the block!!--which I am planning to do)
TIA,
HMB
07-19-2004, 09:56 AM
#2
I've not seen the fuses you speak of, but my first thought is that they cannot be compatible with regular fuses. Do they only have two contacts? It sounds like they need 3 contacts to operate as you describe.
Here's my logic: In order for the light to be ON there must be both a + power source and a ground source. But when the fuse is good, there is only a + power source (both sides of fuse have +12v on them). So the only way for the light to get power is to have a third wire that goes to ground.
I would start by contacting the manufacturer of the connection block and ask if regular fuses will work in the block. Sorry that's not what you were looking for. If you can provide some pictures of the block and/or fuse I might be able to get a better idea of how they work.
Most fuses are pretty much the same, some differences in response time and temperature range, but for automotive use they are usually interchangeable.
Here's my logic: In order for the light to be ON there must be both a + power source and a ground source. But when the fuse is good, there is only a + power source (both sides of fuse have +12v on them). So the only way for the light to get power is to have a third wire that goes to ground.
I would start by contacting the manufacturer of the connection block and ask if regular fuses will work in the block. Sorry that's not what you were looking for. If you can provide some pictures of the block and/or fuse I might be able to get a better idea of how they work.
Most fuses are pretty much the same, some differences in response time and temperature range, but for automotive use they are usually interchangeable.
07-19-2004, 10:19 AM
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Thanks for the advice--I was HOPING that one of you "electronic gods" here would be able to offer advice!
As for the "blue light" fuses, they APPEAR to be the EXACT same as the generic ones, but there are some very thin visible wires from each pole end of the fuse leading to the little mini-bulb (thus providing the power for the light)..
How does a "newbie" tell if it's a 2 or 3 contact fuse?
By the way, the main section of the fuse (the metal S shaped conductor from top to bottom) IS NOT severed, meaning the ONLY visible difference between the two fuses is that one lights and the other does not!
However, the "bad" fuse seems to have a "brownish" tinge at or below one of the poles--probably indicative of a failure..
Sorry, but it's hard to be so "technically descriptive" in this situation!
Thanks for the advice--may I SHOULD exchange for a more "standard" type block?
HMB
As for the "blue light" fuses, they APPEAR to be the EXACT same as the generic ones, but there are some very thin visible wires from each pole end of the fuse leading to the little mini-bulb (thus providing the power for the light)..
How does a "newbie" tell if it's a 2 or 3 contact fuse?
By the way, the main section of the fuse (the metal S shaped conductor from top to bottom) IS NOT severed, meaning the ONLY visible difference between the two fuses is that one lights and the other does not!
However, the "bad" fuse seems to have a "brownish" tinge at or below one of the poles--probably indicative of a failure..
Sorry, but it's hard to be so "technically descriptive" in this situation!
Thanks for the advice--may I SHOULD exchange for a more "standard" type block?
HMB
07-19-2004, 10:33 AM
#4
It's quite possible to have a bulb inside a fuse with only two terminals - but in that case the bulb will light when the fuse BLOWS, and will be unlit when the fuse is good. That operation is quite common but is exacly opposite of what you described.
Are you sure you are correct about the "bulb lights if the fuse is good"?
Did you test it with only one fuse installed, to make sure that fuse is really powering what you think it is? I'm wondering if the lit fuse is really the bad one.
I'm just guessing here, not implying anything.
Are you sure you are correct about the "bulb lights if the fuse is good"?
Did you test it with only one fuse installed, to make sure that fuse is really powering what you think it is? I'm wondering if the lit fuse is really the bad one.
I'm just guessing here, not implying anything.
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