Forcedbird

Just installed the JVC KD-A805. Here is another

It well worth the money with all the options.

crazysupratt

looking at updating my stock unit with probably the jvc kd-a805 you guys suggested...what is needed? is there a plug and play harness? if so where can I get one. If not then I will have to splice and solder wires. Anyways, let me know if there is a plug and play harness avaible for the s2k. thanks.

ace123

Just wanted to bump this thread--it made my install go super quick. Thanks a ton for the walkthrough! I had everything apart in well under half an hour, and when I had to get into it again it took about 5 minutes to open up. Those plastic clips are a lot easier the second time around.

Notes:
- I didn't remove the shift knob or unplug the hazard/roof/etc; I just pulled everything back a bit and had enough clearance. It was really pretty easy that way, so I'd recommend tryin to skip that step on the original instructions.
- The S2000 dash doesn't have a really solid mount for a radio using the standard DIN thingy. It's a bit wobbly.
- There is NOT enough room behind the radio. Figuring out how to fit everything took me as long as getting the radio out. You won't have much luck if you just try to jam everything in. I had to slow down and push, pull, and prod wires from behind the radio by contorting my arms through the back before the deck would go in nicely / without excessive force.
- I used the modifry DCI and harness. I put all the wiring together before I got into the car, and it went off without a hitch. Dash controls are a wonderful thing.

Radio-specific bizarro issue:
- The Pioneer DEH-P800PRS has two wires for illumination. Don't wire both of them together to the illumination wire in your harness. I ended up with two odd issues -- my taillights jittered whenever the dimmer activates / the headlights are on / I hit keyless, and the interior backlighting for the A/C, radio controls, etc. was out. I checked fuses and was pretty worried for a moment, but I thought about what the cause could be. I disconnected one of the two wires and the issues went away. I picked the wrong one though, so I have no dimmer at the moment. I'll fix it when I add an amp in a few months.

Overall, I'm very happy--it sounds great! I can actually hear my music on the freeway with the top down! I'll replace the factory speakers soon with a decent set of amplified components (maybe full active, maybe not...), but just the radio will have to do for a few months.

ace123

I don't think there's a true plug and play harness for JVC head units, but you can skip soldering by using a standard wiring harness. It's used to adapt the JVC wires to the Honda harness so you can create a plug and play, if you will. They run ~$10-15 at any stereo shop, crutchfield, from modifry, etc.

You can connect the wires however you want, but I find it easiest to just get a crimping tool and wiring clips/whatever you call them from a hardware store and wire everything together that way. You certainly could solder, but I'd rather squish insulated metal clamps than solder and then insulate. Also, if you use a harness, you can remove the JVC and swap back in the factory radio in just a few minutes.

gorenova

hi guys, I'm pretty noob when it comes to car audio.

I just ordered a jvc kd-a805 myself, the specs and reviews looks great for the price.

I just have couple questions/concerns.
- Does the receiver door close properly with the HU installed?
- Is there a build in bluetooth mic?
- How did you guys run the wired mic cleanly for that one?

Thanks a bunch!

luv2lean

This thread was very helpful for removing my radio to install a satellite xmp3 radio fm adapter. Unfortunately for me, like others, I destroyed a perfectly good leather shift knob trying to remove it before I read that you CAN remove the radio door piece on an AP2 without completely removing the console or the shift knob. Apparantly, somebody glued or red locktited my shift knob on because that baby is tight and there is no lock nut underneath the shift knob. I found some references to a set screw on the shift knob but I sure dont see one on the stock knob.

From here I suppose I will buy another shift knob and try more heat to get the old one off. I sure dont like the idea of putting vice grips on the shift shaft and hope it doesnt come to that. Feedback and suggestions would be appreciated on anything I may be missing here and how much torque hou can put on the knob without vice grips on the shaft and before something is damaged!

Dave-ROR

Yeah that's not a factory install on that shift knob. At least every one I can remember seeing has the nut, someone probably switched knobs, lost the nut and used locktite instead

However, you are correct (as are others) that the center console does not have to be completely removed for just the HU, but it pretty much does if you want to properly route wiring through the center area (Ipod, RCAs, etc). Since I was doing the iPod install at the same time, my directions reflected that

BTW, I've sold my car a year and a half ago, so if anyone has specific questions on this, you may want to contact me (same username) on either HT (tech or tekh), since I check both more frequently for the ITR forums. I do login here every few months, but that may be too late to provide a useful answer

sillyboybmxer

cant wait to do mine after reading this.
the forums need more members like you.

GTS Jeff

The illumination lead is for on-off operation of backlighting.
The dimmer lead is for variable brightness light operation.

dapretendr

Very good write up, any owner's recently updated their new HU? Can you recommend any good unit that in compatible with the modify DCI?
The list on their site are not current with all the new models that change every year.

Thanks!