Speakers: Add rears, change doors, leave stock tweeters?
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Speakers: Add rears, change doors, leave stock tweeters?
I'm changing my HU to the Alpine 9813, and will be adding the Kenwood Excelon rear speakers and door speakers (Lucid's kits) but am wondering what to do with the stock tweeters (MY2003).
I won't be adding an additional amp. It sounds like everyone who changed the stock tweeters is running a component setup, including an amp.
If I change my door speakers to the Kenwood X168s, what do I do with the stock tweeter? Still use it? Disconnect it? Or can I upgrade the tweeter without adding an amp?
My eyes are blurry from reading the archives on this topic, but lots of good information... thanks.
I won't be adding an additional amp. It sounds like everyone who changed the stock tweeters is running a component setup, including an amp.
If I change my door speakers to the Kenwood X168s, what do I do with the stock tweeter? Still use it? Disconnect it? Or can I upgrade the tweeter without adding an amp?
My eyes are blurry from reading the archives on this topic, but lots of good information... thanks.
#3
If you end up pulling new speaker wire to the doors, then you can use the crossover that comes with the speakers. You could then use either tweeter. Which speakers are they?
I ordered the ex3560 from Lucid, and it was not an easy as pie fit. The tweeter mounts needed some heavy duty dremel action to fit and the speakers themselves did not want to fit easily into the stock baskets. I ended up taking the speakers to a shop and they were able to use drywall screws into the edge of the stock basket to make them fit.
I ordered the ex3560 from Lucid, and it was not an easy as pie fit. The tweeter mounts needed some heavy duty dremel action to fit and the speakers themselves did not want to fit easily into the stock baskets. I ended up taking the speakers to a shop and they were able to use drywall screws into the edge of the stock basket to make them fit.
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I kept the stock tweeters and put in 2 way Alpine 1629S , I also have the stock HU and put in Lucid rear speakers(Polks GXR) It sounds GREAT and can hear at 80 with the top down. At times it may sound a little bright but with a bass adjustment it is fine.
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Woah...I think I get it now.
Off-axis, door-mounted mids drop off quicker than on-axis ones...so unless the crossover is designed for an off-axis application, there's a *big* dip between the drop-off point and the
For example, if you had a component set that used this mid:
www.speakercity.com/Peerless_files/csx176h.shtml
tuned for on-axis response and crossed at 3000, you'd have a 10dB dip...which would make it "sound" half as loud to the human ear there...
Anyway, I'm sure getting those frequencies from anywhere is better than not getting them at all...
Does this make sense or am I way off here? Audio guys?
Off-axis, door-mounted mids drop off quicker than on-axis ones...so unless the crossover is designed for an off-axis application, there's a *big* dip between the drop-off point and the
For example, if you had a component set that used this mid:
www.speakercity.com/Peerless_files/csx176h.shtml
tuned for on-axis response and crossed at 3000, you'd have a 10dB dip...which would make it "sound" half as loud to the human ear there...
Anyway, I'm sure getting those frequencies from anywhere is better than not getting them at all...
Does this make sense or am I way off here? Audio guys?
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Thanks for your input.
I think I'm going to look for some efficient component speakers that might work. I didn't realize the stock door speakers aren't true components, but I guess that's the case.
We'll see how much power the MBQ or Focals require. Ideally, the Alpine HU could power them. I hadn't planned on adding an amp, but may need to.
I think I'm going to look for some efficient component speakers that might work. I didn't realize the stock door speakers aren't true components, but I guess that's the case.
We'll see how much power the MBQ or Focals require. Ideally, the Alpine HU could power them. I hadn't planned on adding an amp, but may need to.
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Well, today I spent part of the afternoon talking to the "experts" at some local audio shops.
The general consensus was to add component door speakers (and rears), but also to definitely add an amp. In fact, it was suggested that adding an amp to even the stock HU would be better than no amp + higher powered Alpine HU.
Yes, ideally everything gets upgraded, but I see that a lot of people are running component door speakers + rears + outboard amp and are still using the stock HU.
Maybe it's better to apply the $400 that I was going to use for a new HU and get a 4 channel amp? Of course at that point I may just get roped in to a sub as well...
The general consensus was to add component door speakers (and rears), but also to definitely add an amp. In fact, it was suggested that adding an amp to even the stock HU would be better than no amp + higher powered Alpine HU.
Yes, ideally everything gets upgraded, but I see that a lot of people are running component door speakers + rears + outboard amp and are still using the stock HU.
Maybe it's better to apply the $400 that I was going to use for a new HU and get a 4 channel amp? Of course at that point I may just get roped in to a sub as well...
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by sarama711
[B]Well, today I spent part of the afternoon talking to the "experts" at some local audio shops.
The general consensus was to add component door speakers (and rears), but also to definitely add an amp.
[B]Well, today I spent part of the afternoon talking to the "experts" at some local audio shops.
The general consensus was to add component door speakers (and rears), but also to definitely add an amp.