Chris S

Having had a 10" sub in the trunk in my first S, and a 6.5" one hanging under the dash above the passenger footwell in the 2nd, the latter option is far preferable. Takes up otherwise wasted space, better mass centralization, and doesn't get in the way of anything.

darkknight1999

A properly powered and tuned 10" sub in the trunk should be able to shake the car..... literally...... like the car next to you should be wondering what the heck is going on. So a getting what your after should be very easy.

To answer the rest of your question: you want a sealed box as a sealed box provides tight clean bass where-as a ported box with give more of a "boomy" feel to the bass.

So I would say get a 10" sub in a sealed box. You looking at an amp with 300+ watts of of good clean power. Remember crap signal into an amp will provide you crappy sound out... only it will be loud crap.


You didn't ask this question... but seeing as though your at the starting line sorta speak I'm just gonna lay it out for you.

Headunit
Front speakers
Sounds deaden the car
Rear speakers
Add amp to power speakers and at the same time while adding the amp, rewire system with aftermarket wiring to the speakers
Add sub and sound deaden the trunk

So really your kinda starting in reverse... If your doing the work yourself or with friends(like someone that actually know what they are doing when installing car audio) the whole setup should run you about $1500 or so depending on the gear you buy. But that number is pretty average. If you have to pay someone to do the install... Plan on about $2500... just go to a good place (NOT Best Buy) and spend the extra money to have it done right. Its worth it.

darkknight1999

Am I looking at that right??? Did you just cut holes the door panels to show the speaker?

Kronn 98SH

My Audio Install V1.0

Clearly the stock audio system sucks, so an upgrade was in order.


Items recycled from Prelude and now installed
Head Unit: Sony Xplōd CDX-GT820IP
Speakers: Pioneer 6¾" components TS-A1702C


Items to be purchased and installed later
Speakers: Kicker 5¼" Type-R components SPR-50C (in S-Pods®)
Amp: Kicker KX350.4 (50W RMS x4 @ 4Ω)

First, I installed the HU, obviously.



Then, I attached and hid the iPod. Notice how stealth it is.



Next, I had to create a custom MDF adapter because 6¾" speakers just will not fit the stock basket.



Instead of spray-painting the adapters, I just took a Sharpie to them (zero dry time).



Next, I had to take care of the wiring. Instead of buying adapters, I cut the speaker plugs off. The Pioneer component system comes with a hardwired crossover, so I used crimped butt connectors and installed it here.



The crossover is held in place with velcro.



Then, I plugged in the woofers and installed them with the adapters.




Then, I ran into my second problem installing this system. The Pioneer tweeters have a wider case plus a lip for flush mounting. You can see the significant width difference.



Since I want to be able to undo EVERYTHING and return it back to stock if necessary, I came up with a simple solution. I cut little grooves into the tweeter towers for the Pioneer lip to fit into. (My camera doesn't focus on small things very well)



I don't have a picture of the Pioneer tweeter installed, but it sits in the exact same place as stock and uses the same mounting bracket.



After I do the v1.1 install (S-Pods + Amp), I'm thinking about installing a second amp and an 8" sub. The component amp will probably get installed behind the driver seat. The sub amp will probably get installed behind the passenger seat. The 8" sub will probably get installed into a custom circular box that mounts inside the donut spare.

Mattu

Hmm, I need to start putting together a system for the S, all I have so far is a Kenwood headunit. I need to do something decent since I miss some of the previous systems i've done in my old cars such as mild competition setups. Will probably stick to Kicker or Rockford, possibly a regular 12" or shallow mount. Anything i need to look out for in the S, any major rattle areas? The door speakers will be amped through a high pass amplifier so not much bass out of them at all

F22CR

Wow, I really wanted the voce but they did not look like they would fit. did you trip the door to fit the speakers?

Hugh9269

Pioneer DEHP9400H CD HU
Arc Audio XDI62X Component speakers
Arc Audio KS 125.2 BX Mini Amp

working on the rest down the road

Alex S2000

Hey guys, So I'm about to pull the trigger. Looking at:
JVC KD-HDR71BT. Anyone have it, how do you like it, ergonomically. Felt intuitive in the store.
Also might get an amp
Doe anyone know the power of the Stock 2004 AP2 radio?
Will Kenwood KFC-1694PS 6-1/2" speaks fit in the doors. Frys said yes, crutchfield.com says not.

lolwtfbbqjr

Can't wait till i do shopping for rehauling sound system in my s2k. OEM is basically shot

haven't splurged money in nice audio system since back in good old high school days

murderedrsx

Just finished mine up yesterday with the exception of an amp rack. Still need to make one as my amp is just lying on a old winter coat in my spare area.

Pioneer deh-80prs
Planet audio anarchy 1800.5
Fronts lanzar max 6.5 comps
Rear panels infinity ref 5.25 comps
Sub idq 12 in zenclosure

Notes.

1. The lanzars were originally a cheap fix (50$) for replacing the pioneer coaxials in the door run off the old sony hu. I wanted to wait until i amped em before i decided if they were worth keeping. Id say they are. They are impressive for the price. Easily sound as good as the infinity comps and the drivers handle there rated power very well. I dont see any need to change them for now. They sound amazingly good.

2. Just adding the prs80 made a world of sq difference over the sony hu. Before i amped them and added any additional speakers the difference in sq using a preset eq was night and day. Just awesome as far as sound is concerned. Now that things are amped and i have played with auto eq and ta id have to say im pretty blown away at the sq. Not to mention this head unit it super intuitive and just plain old easy to use for having so many features. Well worth the price.

3. The cheap 5 channel planet audio amp seams to be working great. Its got a questionable 300x4 + 500 x 1 rating ( all at 2 ohm). I have gains set to 1/4 for all comps and 1/2 up for sub and the entire system is mind numbingly loud. Any more gain on the fronts and it i think theyd pop at high volumes. I think this amp might actually get close to its rating. I might clamp it when i get time and see whats really going on with it. Biggest issue with this amp is its size. Its freakin huge at nearly 21 inches long. Orig i planned on putting it above the tank but it wont fit up there. It takes up nearly the entire spare tire area.

4. The idq does everything everyone else says it will. Super tight sub. I have it crossed at 100hz! And it doesnt miss a note. Very clean sounding. I have wired in parallel down to 2 ohm and the amp seems to be delivering to it well. I can make my teeth rattle with rap songs with gains set to 1/2.

5. Man the top tray had to go. First time i cranked the sub that thing rattled like a sack of tin cans in the trunk going over cobblestones. Reached back and yanked it right out and no more issue. Dont really notice the additional road noise either that others speak of. My car was already noisy before just being in new orleans on shitty streets doesnt help but now i have so much audio fill maybe its just drowning it out.

6. Never did get wires through the doors. Was having a hella hard time pushing a hanger through the grommets and just ended up poking a hole through the side of one of them. I gave up. Instead on passenger side i cut the wires going through the connector into the door and spliced in and for driver side i just spliced in behind the hu. Its small wire but it seems to be working without a hitch.