PLX Wireband Narrowband Replacement
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PLX Wireband Narrowband Replacement
I followed install instructions according to here:
http://alavigne.net/Motorsports/FeatureRep.../M500/index.jsp
The writer mentioned a heater wire in C101 (pin 5) or C404 (pin 21). Something isn't adding up possibly due to me having an AP2 so the wiring colors are different. It also could be, because I can't locate C101. I know where C404 is, but there appears to only be ~16 connections so now sure to locate pin 21... I already tapped pin1 (heater ground) on connector C and have the resistors in place. Which wire is tapped on the plug side when replacing the narrowband with a wideband sensor?
I checked the service manual and it didn't help much.
http://alavigne.net/Motorsports/FeatureRep.../M500/index.jsp
The writer mentioned a heater wire in C101 (pin 5) or C404 (pin 21). Something isn't adding up possibly due to me having an AP2 so the wiring colors are different. It also could be, because I can't locate C101. I know where C404 is, but there appears to only be ~16 connections so now sure to locate pin 21... I already tapped pin1 (heater ground) on connector C and have the resistors in place. Which wire is tapped on the plug side when replacing the narrowband with a wideband sensor?
I checked the service manual and it didn't help much.
#2
Honestly? The easiest way to do it?
Cut the plug off your stock narrowband 02 sensor. I don't recall which of the 4 wires are the heater wires, but you should be able to figure it out pretty easily... Splice the resistors to the heater wires, and plug it back into the stock harness. Zip tie the resistors to the top of the tranny (I think I used the shift-linkage tube).
Thus, no splicing of the stock harness, and the resistors are under the car where there's not so much of a concern over how hot they get (and they will get hot, trust me).
Cut the plug off your stock narrowband 02 sensor. I don't recall which of the 4 wires are the heater wires, but you should be able to figure it out pretty easily... Splice the resistors to the heater wires, and plug it back into the stock harness. Zip tie the resistors to the top of the tranny (I think I used the shift-linkage tube).
Thus, no splicing of the stock harness, and the resistors are under the car where there's not so much of a concern over how hot they get (and they will get hot, trust me).
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Too late to do that. All I have to do is splice this last wire. So can someone please help by telling me which wire is the heater wire under the driver's side kick panel? I prefer connector C101 since it's easier to tap into, but I can't figure out which plug it really is.
#7
Originally Posted by silex,Aug 2 2010, 06:49 PM
I just had a thought, but if I leave the narrowband plugged in then there is no need for a separate heater circuit, correct?
That would be, nearly exactly, what I had first suggested (only I used the resistors in place of the narrowband).
You should have already spliced the narrowband output from the PLX sensor pod to the narrowband input to the ECU, so you shouldn't get conflicting signals.
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Sorry about that Kermdaddy. I did a search and posted in the threads without realizing they were all under the same sub-forum. Also received a PM from RacerXI with the same wrist slap. My bad. Won't happen again.
Just wanted to update everyone that leaving the stock narrowband plugged in to utilize the resistor circuit indeed works! But I'm pretty sure from what I know about electrical circuits that the signals could get crossed since they are coming from two sources so I also snipped (luckily I have a Boomslang harness) the primary o2 sensor wire and just relied on the tap from the narrowband output on the PLX. Works like a charm!
This is by far the easiest way to implement narrowband emulation without worrying about placement of hot resistors so I hope this thread helps someone else out in the future.
Just wanted to update everyone that leaving the stock narrowband plugged in to utilize the resistor circuit indeed works! But I'm pretty sure from what I know about electrical circuits that the signals could get crossed since they are coming from two sources so I also snipped (luckily I have a Boomslang harness) the primary o2 sensor wire and just relied on the tap from the narrowband output on the PLX. Works like a charm!
This is by far the easiest way to implement narrowband emulation without worrying about placement of hot resistors so I hope this thread helps someone else out in the future.
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