Need help deciding which sub to use.
#1
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Need help deciding which sub to use.
Hello All,
I would like to request help on deciding which sub to use in my system. I recently bought a JL stealth box from a friend for a good deal. It came with JL 12W3V3-8 when I assumed it was going to be a JL 12W3V3-4. Oh well, I still got a good deal. Anyway, I also have laying around a Kicker 07CVR12-4 DVC. Both have more or less the same rating but I'm trying to figure out which is the better sub to pair up with my set up. 2 ohm (4 ohm dvc) or 8 ohm?
Here is how my system looks like atm for sub:
Head Unit - Kenwood KIV-BT900
AMP - Alpine MRD-M605
Cap - Tsunami 1.2 Farads
JL S2000 Stealth box for 12" sub
Fully dynamatted trunk
I'm thinking the the right choice would be the Kicker since I can get the ohms down 2. Am I missing anything?
v/r
James
I would like to request help on deciding which sub to use in my system. I recently bought a JL stealth box from a friend for a good deal. It came with JL 12W3V3-8 when I assumed it was going to be a JL 12W3V3-4. Oh well, I still got a good deal. Anyway, I also have laying around a Kicker 07CVR12-4 DVC. Both have more or less the same rating but I'm trying to figure out which is the better sub to pair up with my set up. 2 ohm (4 ohm dvc) or 8 ohm?
Here is how my system looks like atm for sub:
Head Unit - Kenwood KIV-BT900
AMP - Alpine MRD-M605
Cap - Tsunami 1.2 Farads
JL S2000 Stealth box for 12" sub
Fully dynamatted trunk
I'm thinking the the right choice would be the Kicker since I can get the ohms down 2. Am I missing anything?
v/r
James
#2
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from what i have been watching online from a guy that does comps with subs going 8ohm on a 4ohm sub is for when your linking more than 1 sub together and also amps put out more rms on a lower ohm and also what i have been reading is you want your rms for your amp to match or go higher than your sub itself and the max watts doesnt matter as much as the rms does. feel free to prove me wrong im just learning all this since i have been running a crapy pioneer 800 watt max 400 rms @ 2ohm amp on my kicker S12L5 4ohm which is rated at 1200 watts max at 600 rms at 2 ohms. when i had that setup my sub just never seemed to work that good. it was find on some other cheaper subs i had but this one it just sucked bad.
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from what i have been watching online from a guy that does comps with subs going 8ohm on a 4ohm sub is for when your linking more than 1 sub together and also amps put out more rms on a lower ohm and also what i have been reading is you want your rms for your amp to match or go higher than your sub itself and the max watts doesnt matter as much as the rms does. feel free to prove me wrong im just learning all this since i have been running a crapy pioneer 800 watt max 400 rms @ 2ohm amp on my kicker S12L5 4ohm which is rated at 1200 watts max at 600 rms at 2 ohms. when i had that setup my sub just never seemed to work that good. it was find on some other cheaper subs i had but this one it just sucked bad.
v/r
James
#4
I can't comment on the merits of either sub, but your amp will likely put out only 200w @ 8 ohms (vs 600w @ 2 ohms)
which may be underpowered depending on how loud you like things. You'll certainly have a lot more headroom with
the Kicker.
which may be underpowered depending on how loud you like things. You'll certainly have a lot more headroom with
the Kicker.
#5
Ok. The lower the impedance the more wattage you are throwing to the woofer. At the same time, the lower the impedance the colder and happier your amp stays. But it's 2013 and most new amps are build well and never over heat so no worries.
On to your question. I would run the sub at 2ohms over 8ohms ANY DAY. Your amp is listed at ~400RMS @ 4ohms and ~600RMS @ 2ohms. If you have a dual voice coil 4ohm sub then your only option is to have a 2 ohm load on your amp. Done. Hook it up and turn your gain all the way down (counter clock wise) before turning on music the first time. Play a song at 3/4 listening volume and slowly turn the gain knob up until you hear distortion from the sub. Turn it back a hair and you are done. If you want to get all fancy you can look at the square waves on an oscilloscope.
On your head unit there should be no bass boost to the amp and set your high pass filter (HPF) to 80hz
On to your question. I would run the sub at 2ohms over 8ohms ANY DAY. Your amp is listed at ~400RMS @ 4ohms and ~600RMS @ 2ohms. If you have a dual voice coil 4ohm sub then your only option is to have a 2 ohm load on your amp. Done. Hook it up and turn your gain all the way down (counter clock wise) before turning on music the first time. Play a song at 3/4 listening volume and slowly turn the gain knob up until you hear distortion from the sub. Turn it back a hair and you are done. If you want to get all fancy you can look at the square waves on an oscilloscope.
On your head unit there should be no bass boost to the amp and set your high pass filter (HPF) to 80hz
#6
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Ok. The lower the impedance the more wattage you are throwing to the woofer. At the same time, the lower the impedance the colder and happier your amp stays. But it's 2013 and most new amps are build well and never over heat so no worries.
On to your question. I would run the sub at 2ohms over 8ohms ANY DAY. Your amp is listed at ~400RMS @ 4ohms and ~600RMS @ 2ohms. If you have a dual voice coil 4ohm sub then your only option is to have a 2 ohm load on your amp. Done. Hook it up and turn your gain all the way down (counter clock wise) before turning on music the first time. Play a song at 3/4 listening volume and slowly turn the gain knob up until you hear distortion from the sub. Turn it back a hair and you are done. If you want to get all fancy you can look at the square waves on an oscilloscope.
On your head unit there should be no bass boost to the amp and set your high pass filter (HPF) to 80hz
On to your question. I would run the sub at 2ohms over 8ohms ANY DAY. Your amp is listed at ~400RMS @ 4ohms and ~600RMS @ 2ohms. If you have a dual voice coil 4ohm sub then your only option is to have a 2 ohm load on your amp. Done. Hook it up and turn your gain all the way down (counter clock wise) before turning on music the first time. Play a song at 3/4 listening volume and slowly turn the gain knob up until you hear distortion from the sub. Turn it back a hair and you are done. If you want to get all fancy you can look at the square waves on an oscilloscope.
On your head unit there should be no bass boost to the amp and set your high pass filter (HPF) to 80hz
Thanks Bro, you pretty much told me exactly what I wanted/needed to hear. I appreciate your time!! I do have one or two more questions for you if I may, My head unit on the cross over section give me the ability to adjust slopes. Is that something I wanna mess with or just leave it at default. Also, should I also adjust the filters on the HU in addition to the amp or leave them on "through"? Lastly, as far as the EQ, are adjustments made simply to listening taste or is there a methodical adjustment to that too? I don't plan to get fancy with an oscilloscope but looking for a little more than just the basic adjustments.
v/r
James
#7
Originally Posted by BLAQ&GREYs2k' timestamp='1369353394' post='22563435
Ok. The lower the impedance the more wattage you are throwing to the woofer. At the same time, the lower the impedance the colder and happier your amp stays. But it's 2013 and most new amps are build well and never over heat so no worries.
On to your question. I would run the sub at 2ohms over 8ohms ANY DAY. Your amp is listed at ~400RMS @ 4ohms and ~600RMS @ 2ohms. If you have a dual voice coil 4ohm sub then your only option is to have a 2 ohm load on your amp. Done. Hook it up and turn your gain all the way down (counter clock wise) before turning on music the first time. Play a song at 3/4 listening volume and slowly turn the gain knob up until you hear distortion from the sub. Turn it back a hair and you are done. If you want to get all fancy you can look at the square waves on an oscilloscope.
On your head unit there should be no bass boost to the amp and set your high pass filter (HPF) to 80hz
On to your question. I would run the sub at 2ohms over 8ohms ANY DAY. Your amp is listed at ~400RMS @ 4ohms and ~600RMS @ 2ohms. If you have a dual voice coil 4ohm sub then your only option is to have a 2 ohm load on your amp. Done. Hook it up and turn your gain all the way down (counter clock wise) before turning on music the first time. Play a song at 3/4 listening volume and slowly turn the gain knob up until you hear distortion from the sub. Turn it back a hair and you are done. If you want to get all fancy you can look at the square waves on an oscilloscope.
On your head unit there should be no bass boost to the amp and set your high pass filter (HPF) to 80hz
Thanks Bro, you pretty much told me exactly what I wanted/needed to hear. I appreciate your time!! I do have one or two more questions for you if I may, My head unit on the cross over section give me the ability to adjust slopes. Is that something I wanna mess with or just leave it at default. Also, should I also adjust the filters on the HU in addition to the amp or leave them on "through"? Lastly, as far as the EQ, are adjustments made simply to listening taste or is there a methodical adjustment to that too? I don't plan to get fancy with an oscilloscope but looking for a little more than just the basic adjustments.
v/r
James
If you leave the EQ at normal there will be less distortion for values you would have had tuned up. For example I turned up the 3k hz so my highs were a little louder but when I cranked it the signal was distorted.
Your amp should have a LPF set this to 80hz
The crossover slope I would set to 80hz, is there another adjustment on that screen for you?
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