STL

Those colors are just specific to that Metralink unit. There really isn't much of a standard when it comes to speaker wires and their color.
Basically you need to run the rear output of your OEM head unit to your hi-lo converter then run a stereo RCA cable fromt it back to Bose unit. Once you hook up power and ground to the bose unit, you should only have two input wires left on the bose connector. At this point I cut the RCA cable which should expose 4 wires (two for each RCA line). The outer wire in a negative and the inner wire (that is likely wrapped in red or white jacket) is the positive -- and it's probably a really thin wire so be careful stripping it. You want to combine both the negatives and both the positives together so then you have one + and one - to input to the Bose unit (plus it combines R and L). From here you will have to try hooking it up two different ways (swapping the + and - connections) to see which way sounds better.

Jason B

Thanks again everyone. I couldn't have done this without you.

I finally got the Bose

STL

If you ran the 12 ga. straight to the battery then yes the amp will be on all the time and that will have adverse effects on your battery (even if the sub isn't getting any inputs). I just powered my sub off the switch 12V that also runs the radio. I seriously doubt the sub amp draws much current so what I did shouldn't be a problem. You should at least put a relay on the power wiring running to the sub so the relay is only closed (and thus supplying power) when the car is on.