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I'm hooking up a bose spare tire sub and am doing the install now. I don't have a lucid harness. I need to know how to do it without the harness and what PINS are for rear speakers on a 2002 STOCK HONDA RADIO???
How can I do this with using the stock harness and just these pins? I NEED to finish this install tonight without a lucid adapter. NO time...
Other's who are looking for a used rsx-s sub, check these forums:
you can use wire taps if you have the OEM honda radio. The clip is a standard honda clip and I think you can find the pin layout online if you look. I have an aftermarker radio and bought a clip adapter and it said on the wire what each one was. I don't remember which was what though. Try searching on s2ki.com, I'm sure someone has listed the pin layout before.
There is no wire in the stock harness to tap into for rear speakers. They are empty pins... I guess I will have to purchase an adapter, but really wanted to finish the installl tonight, but don't know how without one.
This is the view of the radio pins with rear speaker terminals marked. without using Lucid's connector I had to solder wires directly to the radio pins and run the wires through the empty connector sockets.
See my webpage for the connector diagram. If you're really careful, you can push some wires into the open holes on the connector. Tape the new wires to the old one to make sure their depth into the connector doesn't change (if they go too deep you could short out with another pin, if they go too shallow they may not make contact with the pin at all). Frankly, I don't like this method, but I've used it successfully in the past.
To do it correctly, you'll need to order some female pins from online (or get lucky with a local electronics shop).
I don't know how comfortable I feel soldering to those pins. Anyone here in PA??? What do people do when they go to Circuit City/Best Buy, etc. and want to add rears in their S? Do those shops have a connector or harness I can buy to make this work? I need to finish this install asap and can't wait to order a lucid adapter.
Next question. As I said, I'm hooking up a bose tire sub that has a built in amp into it. This mean I need a passive output converter. I have one here from an old install.
I have no wiring diagram for this thing from 5 years ago. How do I hook this thing up?
What are each of the four wires on the left-end designated for?
What is the single wire coming out by the RCA's and do I need it?
I actually drilled out those 4 holes in the harness so that wires would fit. Then I soldered the ends to those pins. It is not easy as I'm not real good with a soldering gun. Anyway, the rears worked for about a week till the vibration of the car broke one of the solders. I gave up and just ordered Lucid's harness. It's not worth the aggravation.
Originally posted by Jason B I don't know how comfortable I feel soldering to those pins. Anyone here in PA??? What do people do when they go to Circuit City/Best Buy, etc. and want to add rears in their S? Do those shops have a connector or harness I can buy to make this work? I need to finish this install asap and can't wait to order a lucid adapter.
You are the best judge of your capabilities. I soldered mine without a second thought and they were attached fine when I changed the HU a year later. I don't know of a harness to use, but then I'm not in the stereo business so there may be one available. I think Lucid custom makes his.
Originally posted by Jason B What are each of the four wires on the left-end designated for?
Those are the speaker inputs to the converter, and they connect to the speaker outputs on your HU. If you don't have the color code it may be tricky figuring out which is which. Two wires are for the left speaker (+ and -) and two for the right speaker (+ and -). This assumes you have a high-power HU (in this case "high power" means NOT using a common ground for the speaker outputs). If it's a crummy HU and has commom ground for one side of the speaker outputs, you only use the + wire going into the converter to connect to your speaker + output, insulate the - inputs, and connect the black wire to ground. The factory Honda HU is "high power", meaning it does not use a common ground on the speaker outputs.
You will need a meter to figure out which wires are which. Each pair of speaker inputs will have a resistor on it, but there's no telling what the value will be. It will however be the same for each pair (left & right) of wires. So you can first identify each pair by checking for that resistance.
The hard part is identifying which wire is positive. Probably the easiest thing to do is just hook it up and then play with reversing ONE pair of speaker input wires and listen carefully to see which way provides the most bass output. Bass response will be maximized when the polarity is correct.
Originally posted by Jason B What is the single wire coming out by the RCA's and do I need it?
Definately gets connected to ground if you have common-ground speaker outputs on your HU, but may be needed for high-power speaker outputs depending on how the converter is designed. I would suggest connecting it to ground at the power amplifier and see what it does. Worst case it will cause noise if it's not supposed to be connected.
If you took it apart and took a picture of both sides of the circuit board I could tell you for sure which wires go where.
I called them and the company is now called Metra. "Metralink" was a line they sold many years ago, not anymore. I spoke with tech support and found out what those four wires are. He read the colors off in the same order as they came out of my connector.
Grey = right+
Yellow = right -
Blue = left -
Green =left +
Are those the colors ususally used in car audio for left and right +,-? If not, then they are just specific to how Metralink wired their unit.
I was told that single wire by the rca's is a "floating ground", not a chassis ground. He told me if I have no audio on the sub, then I connect that to the shield on the RCA, which is a negative- and that will give audio. He said I probably won't have to use that wire though.
I also have another one of these converters by another manufacturer and will use your method of determining postives and negatives when I hook it up. Good info!
06-14-2003, 06:30 PM
