Is my stereo getting installed or what???
04-02-2004, 08:20 AM
#32
Registered User
Thread Starter
no man no multi meter. Now its a little different.
When I turn the stero system on, it starts as the 300/2 kappa combo. Then about 5 seconds later the sub kicks in slowly. Is this normal? Can it be adjusted?
Also sometimes on very low level volume the sub amp shits and when I turn the sound back high it waits again about 4-5 seconds and starts again.
When I turn the stero system on, it starts as the 300/2 kappa combo. Then about 5 seconds later the sub kicks in slowly. Is this normal? Can it be adjusted?
Also sometimes on very low level volume the sub amp shits and when I turn the sound back high it waits again about 4-5 seconds and starts again.
04-02-2004, 08:35 AM
#33
Registered User
oh... weird.
first things first.... replace the fuses to that amp, and in the amp... (or have them do it.)
i'm going to read the JL 500/1 manual and see if i can find anything like this...
(just don't tell my boss....
)
first things first.... replace the fuses to that amp, and in the amp... (or have them do it.)
i'm going to read the JL 500/1 manual and see if i can find anything like this...
(just don't tell my boss....
)
04-02-2004, 08:44 AM
#34
Registered User
read the manual. (past tense)
here's my suggestion Andy.
pop up the beauty board. make sure that the signal sensing switch is set to off on the 500/1.
in your picture i think i can see that it's set to on, and based on the manual i'm 99.9% sure this is your problem.
edit: inserting image
[QUOTE]The sensitivity of the signal sensing turn-on circuit
has been designed for high-level (speaker level)
signals, not for low-level (preamp level) signals. Using
this feature with low-level (preamp level) signals is
not recommended.We do not recommend this
method of turning the amplifier on and off as a
default.Whenever possible, use the conventional
remote turn-on lead method.The signal sensing
circuit is designed to detect midrange frequency
signal presence. If the signal feeding the amplifier is
not full-range (for example, if there is an active
low-pass crossover in line before the amplifier),
this circuit will not operate properly.
To activate the signal sensing turn-on feature,
place the
here's my suggestion Andy.
pop up the beauty board. make sure that the signal sensing switch is set to off on the 500/1.
in your picture i think i can see that it's set to on, and based on the manual i'm 99.9% sure this is your problem.
edit: inserting image
[QUOTE]The sensitivity of the signal sensing turn-on circuit
has been designed for high-level (speaker level)
signals, not for low-level (preamp level) signals. Using
this feature with low-level (preamp level) signals is
not recommended.We do not recommend this
method of turning the amplifier on and off as a
default.Whenever possible, use the conventional
remote turn-on lead method.The signal sensing
circuit is designed to detect midrange frequency
signal presence. If the signal feeding the amplifier is
not full-range (for example, if there is an active
low-pass crossover in line before the amplifier),
this circuit will not operate properly.
To activate the signal sensing turn-on feature,
place the
04-02-2004, 09:20 AM
#36
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well as you said there was a signal sensing switch
and as you said it was on
as you said I turned it off
but I couldent test it since I blew one of the fuses today when I turned up the volume too much. ( I turned the sub volume to max and then turned the HU volume to max, to see if it can handle it). Well Fortunetly it blew the fuse only. I have a replacement here but no screwdriver so I ll change that tonite and test it out.
and as you said it was on
as you said I turned it off
but I couldent test it since I blew one of the fuses today when I turned up the volume too much. ( I turned the sub volume to max and then turned the HU volume to max, to see if it can handle it). Well Fortunetly it blew the fuse only. I have a replacement here but no screwdriver so I ll change that tonite and test it out.
04-02-2004, 09:28 AM
#37
Registered User
i feel confident your problem is solved. 
i could see in one of the other pics that they did have a turn on lead run to the 500/1, so assuming it is hooked up (which it should be), you should be good to go. looks like they just missed that minor thing.
bummer on the fuse though. what was the fuse rating? the 500/1 manual said you should have a 50 amp in there and a 40 amp on the 300/2. and what do they have at the battery? it should be around an 80 - 100 amp.
if you have slightly lower fuses all around, that's ok too, but you don't want to go too low (otherwise they will blow all the time.)
i could see in one of the other pics that they did have a turn on lead run to the 500/1, so assuming it is hooked up (which it should be), you should be good to go. looks like they just missed that minor thing.bummer on the fuse though. what was the fuse rating? the 500/1 manual said you should have a 50 amp in there and a 40 amp on the 300/2. and what do they have at the battery? it should be around an 80 - 100 amp.
if you have slightly lower fuses all around, that's ok too, but you don't want to go too low (otherwise they will blow all the time.)
04-02-2004, 09:36 AM
#38
Former Moderator
Originally posted by AndyS2
Well as you said there was a signal sensing switch
and as you said it was on
as you said I turned it off
but I couldent test it since I blew one of the fuses today when I turned up the volume too much. ( I turned the sub volume to max and then turned the HU volume to max, to see if it can handle it). Well Fortunetly it blew the fuse only. I have a replacement here but no screwdriver so I ll change that tonite and test it out.
Well as you said there was a signal sensing switch
and as you said it was on
as you said I turned it off
but I couldent test it since I blew one of the fuses today when I turned up the volume too much. ( I turned the sub volume to max and then turned the HU volume to max, to see if it can handle it). Well Fortunetly it blew the fuse only. I have a replacement here but no screwdriver so I ll change that tonite and test it out.
Something is wrong here. Your fuses shouldnt blow from that.
04-02-2004, 09:49 AM
#39
Registered User
Thread Starter
Really? I thought it might be like amp is trying to suck too much power thatswhy the fuse blows up so the amp wont burn out.
But now I am thinking, the amp should consume the same amount of electricity wheter it not pumping too mcuh or its all on. Right? If that statement is correct than as you said, fuse shouldent blow up from me turning the volume up, since the fuse is on the way to the power wire blew up. Me turning the volume all the way up should blow the speaker if the speaker cant handle it right? Hmm this is confusuing. I wil lchekc the ampage on the fuses when I get back to my car.
But now I am thinking, the amp should consume the same amount of electricity wheter it not pumping too mcuh or its all on. Right? If that statement is correct than as you said, fuse shouldent blow up from me turning the volume up, since the fuse is on the way to the power wire blew up. Me turning the volume all the way up should blow the speaker if the speaker cant handle it right? Hmm this is confusuing. I wil lchekc the ampage on the fuses when I get back to my car.
04-02-2004, 09:53 AM
#40
Registered User
they might if it was a 30 amp fuse...
he probably had that thing right at full clipping, which means he was driving a continuous 1000 watts... that'd pull... what? 90 amps (assuming the 500/1 has a typical D-class efficiency of 80%).
generally speaking Andy -- 'all the way up' isn't the best place to dwell...
edit:
Andy, no the more you turn up the volume, the more power your amps output, and the greater the current draw. but the fuses aren't there to protect your amp from too loud a volume. they are there to protect the amps and car from electrical shorts and possible fire.
(for clarity -- a'll the way up' isn't best b/c then your HU pre-amp is clipping there, which adds a lot of distortion. assuming they set your gains correctly, about 2/3rds your max volume setting is the best place to maximize your volume w/o distortion (amp or HU, i won't promise no speaker distortion). on an Alpine -- that's roughly 23-24 on the dial.)
he probably had that thing right at full clipping, which means he was driving a continuous 1000 watts... that'd pull... what? 90 amps (assuming the 500/1 has a typical D-class efficiency of 80%).
generally speaking Andy -- 'all the way up' isn't the best place to dwell...
edit:
Andy, no the more you turn up the volume, the more power your amps output, and the greater the current draw. but the fuses aren't there to protect your amp from too loud a volume. they are there to protect the amps and car from electrical shorts and possible fire.
(for clarity -- a'll the way up' isn't best b/c then your HU pre-amp is clipping there, which adds a lot of distortion. assuming they set your gains correctly, about 2/3rds your max volume setting is the best place to maximize your volume w/o distortion (amp or HU, i won't promise no speaker distortion). on an Alpine -- that's roughly 23-24 on the dial.)