Modify Console defroster button to Dash button
#1
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Modify Console defroster button to Dash button
Who should read this? MY00 and MY01 owners with a console mounted defroster switch after getting a hardtop or a new softtop with a glass window defroster grid. Everyone else will have no interest in this. You also need to be able to trace a circuit and do some minor electrical work.
I've written a couple of posts in the past about implementing a revision of the pre-2002 S2000 cars to incorporate the circuitry of the later model defroster circuit. This is useful when switching to a hardtop or when converting from the plastic window to the newer glass rear window with the defroster grid. The standard defroster circuit, available as a kit to upgrade the MY2001 and earlier, so that the hardtop defroster can be used can be combined with a relay to switch between the hardtop and softtop circuits. You can search for my earlier posts or send me a PM. I would need your email address to send you the pdf.
What is annoying is that the defroster button in the upgrade is mounted on the console and is subject to random activation by accidentally resting your hand on the console. In moving the button to the customary position on the dash, the momentary factory switch has to be modified to by embedding a substitute DPDT latching switch. An important feature of the factory button which cannot be implemented easily is that the defroster times out after a preset time, so that the grid is only energized for a short time. I managed to do this by creating a custom circuit that allows a button push to start a defrosting period and then terminate. Also it can be cancelled by another button push.
In researching this in the past, I was able to identify a factory part specifically made for that functioning, but could never locate it because it was obsolete-- no longer made! I was able to create the circuit using a 556 timer and TTL circuit, but it was too labor intensive to create for other interested S2000 owners. On reading a hobbyist website, Hackaday.com, I came across this very interesting article. If you click through to the article, you will find an article describing a circuit board for $17 which perform the function of the custom board that I created earlier. Essentially what would need to be done is to set the DIP switches for the timing interval and then install (solder) a jumper to configure the controller to turn off with a second button push (Start/Stop on Trigger). The controller board relay contacts would be used to energized the coil of the S2000 relay. The +12 volt and ground from the S2000 would be connected to the power connections on the board. There is some minor wiring to the lighting in the dash switch as well from the contacts of the unmodified switch to trigger the controller board. You also need to locate a space to house the new circuit, either behind the dash or somewhere under the console.
So, essentially, this is a wiring job. You might have to find a connector for the switch and one for the connector where you removed the console switch. Not a drop-in solution, but well worth it if you want a good upgrade from the console switch with it's drawbacks. It's simpler than installing a new audio system.
I've written a couple of posts in the past about implementing a revision of the pre-2002 S2000 cars to incorporate the circuitry of the later model defroster circuit. This is useful when switching to a hardtop or when converting from the plastic window to the newer glass rear window with the defroster grid. The standard defroster circuit, available as a kit to upgrade the MY2001 and earlier, so that the hardtop defroster can be used can be combined with a relay to switch between the hardtop and softtop circuits. You can search for my earlier posts or send me a PM. I would need your email address to send you the pdf.
What is annoying is that the defroster button in the upgrade is mounted on the console and is subject to random activation by accidentally resting your hand on the console. In moving the button to the customary position on the dash, the momentary factory switch has to be modified to by embedding a substitute DPDT latching switch. An important feature of the factory button which cannot be implemented easily is that the defroster times out after a preset time, so that the grid is only energized for a short time. I managed to do this by creating a custom circuit that allows a button push to start a defrosting period and then terminate. Also it can be cancelled by another button push.
In researching this in the past, I was able to identify a factory part specifically made for that functioning, but could never locate it because it was obsolete-- no longer made! I was able to create the circuit using a 556 timer and TTL circuit, but it was too labor intensive to create for other interested S2000 owners. On reading a hobbyist website, Hackaday.com, I came across this very interesting article. If you click through to the article, you will find an article describing a circuit board for $17 which perform the function of the custom board that I created earlier. Essentially what would need to be done is to set the DIP switches for the timing interval and then install (solder) a jumper to configure the controller to turn off with a second button push (Start/Stop on Trigger). The controller board relay contacts would be used to energized the coil of the S2000 relay. The +12 volt and ground from the S2000 would be connected to the power connections on the board. There is some minor wiring to the lighting in the dash switch as well from the contacts of the unmodified switch to trigger the controller board. You also need to locate a space to house the new circuit, either behind the dash or somewhere under the console.
So, essentially, this is a wiring job. You might have to find a connector for the switch and one for the connector where you removed the console switch. Not a drop-in solution, but well worth it if you want a good upgrade from the console switch with it's drawbacks. It's simpler than installing a new audio system.
#5
You could buy that Art Controller and the necessary plugs and make one. Unless you are comfortable building a circuit yourself you may want to find a plug and play setup. If you want cheap, beabke to make it otherwise expect to pay.
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