matrix

To properly answer your question, we really need to know more about your system. Do you have a sub? Are the speakers running full range or do you have an active crossover feeding the amplifer?


For example, if you are running full range to the woofer, then it will depend on your listening habits, music and tone controls. 100W RMS @ 60 Hz is very different than 100W RMS @ 1000 Hz. The 50W RMS will get eaten up quicker by a 60Hz signal than the 1000 Hz signal. Bass setting quickly cut into this as well.

So there is no correct answer until all the variable are taken into account.

mgiang7

sorry, i thought i was clear that the amp is only for my front/rear speakers so no sub involved. i'm running a full range signal from the amp to the speakers and using passive crossovers that came with my components for the front speakers.

matrix

Okay, then it will depend on the type of music you listen to and where you have your bass control set to. Most "audiophiles" believe it should be set to neutral (flat)...but the in the real world it is all over the place.

If you listen to bass heavy music and like to lean on the bass control. Look for an amplifier with more power AND look for speakers with a longer throw (this is identified by the Xmax parameter) along with higher power ratings - I know you are not looking to replace your speakers, but I have to give you the entire story .

Now the beauty of having extra power is exactly what PJK3 stated, you have headroom so if the music demands the extra power, your amplifier has the ability to produce it cleanly...however, there is a limit. If you go too far, then the speaker will start to pop because your are exceeding the Xmax parameter. You could also being forcing the voice coil outside of the magnetic field that controls the cone movement and this could damage the coil when it travels back.

So to cut a long story short, you need to look at more than just power ratings to match a speaker and an amplifier.

GENERALLY - and use this with a grain of salt, you want to overpower your speakers. So in your case 80W speaker with a 100 - 125W amplifier is fine. But remember that bass signals eat more power and push the speakers harder - so be attentive to what your speakers are telling you through the music. Make sure you are not setting gains to maximum...which you never should anyway...but that is a different story.

PJK3

well, to be honest w/ you - after i bought my Kicker amp (upgraded from an older amp that was having some problems), i haven't really paid much attention to the amp side of car stereo as i'm planning on transplanting both of my current amps when/if i get my S2k.

HOWEVER, i may have some good news for you...
first, i've noticed that Crutchfield is having a closeout on the ZR-360 2 channel amp. that's a pretty good price as well for it (compared to what it was originally going for... ), but it is a pretty large amp (physically and power wise) and so may be a bit more than you need...
second, one of the users here (Josh and Jenny) mentioned the site www.onlinecarstereo.com (which i don't know from a hole in the ground), but i did notice that they have a fairly extensive selection of ZR amps over there, but they are selling them for almost original pricing (not MSRP, but just below the usual electronics dealer range prices).

i'm not a huge Kicker nut or anything, but when i went out a year ago to buy, bang for buck, review for review, and based on my listening excursions - i was pleased with the way the ZR amps sounded. so, i bought one.
honestly - if i could have found a used Adcom amp that suited my power needs - i'd have bought it first... but, they have long since stopped making those, so i should just stop crying over milk that has long since been spilled and cleaned up.

aside - btw, when i got home i checked my birth certificate for my Kicker ZR-240 (officially the Total Quality Management Certification) and my ZR-240, rated for 240 watts RMS into 4 ohms mono was "born" with an official 363 watts RMS into 4 ohms mono with a 14.4 VDC supply.

mgiang7

hmm, maybe i'll hunt around for one of the older kicker amps then.

i've ordered from onlinecarstereo before, their prices can be good, but they aren't an authorized dealer for much of what they sell (not that many internet dealers are, but there are some authorized dealers that have good prices).

was the original rating on the amp at a different voltage level then the birth sheet one?

PJK3

well, don't go on just my word on the matter... lol. i'm sure there are a lot of others around who probably have their own amp preferences.

depending on if you are a SQ (sound quality) or a SPL (sound pressure level - high volume) kind of listener, i'd make sure you qualify opinions to match your own listening habits as SQ guys (me) will won't always recommend what a SPL (volume) guy would want and vice versa.

the best option would be to listen to the equipment first, but seeing as it is discontinued that might be tricky...

i'd love to know how you progress on this quest... so if you wouldn't mind, keep us updated.

btw - both ratings were made for a 14.4 VDC supply. it was actually setup in a table form w/ the units off to one side in a column, the rated power in one column, and the test power in another. so, that implies to me that they were both based upon 14.4 VDC. i'd be happy to scan and post it if desired.

mgiang7

quick updated.

i just swapped out my 4X50RMS amp for an 85X4 amp and find a noticeable difference in sound quality. my focals sound even better now! I liked them before, but it just didn't sound quite right. Now i'm loving it! I even made a nifty box for it (with a kewl screen top).

If anyone goes for Focals (in my case the 165K) make sure you give them enough power, they really shine when you do!

PJK3

cool deal.

what did you end up buying?

mgiang7

got a hifonics z6400 and paid about 225 for it. nice amp 85X4 (seems under-rated a bit) and looks good. i still need to paint my new amp enclosure, it's not that nice, but i made it myself so i'm proud of it. have you decided on which focals to go for? if you end up with them, for sure you'll need to bridge the adcom!

b0mbrman

Okay, what about for me? I'm planning on running CDT HD 62 up front (130 w rms) and a Pioneer TS-W254C sub (250 w rms)

How powerful should the amps be that I look at?