pbook4g5

Howdy everyone,

Was wondering what your thoughts are for my current setup. I'm adding a sub and replacing the front component speakers. I've already got everything picked out and ordered. I got a single channel amp for free from a friend, so I needed to pick up a separate amp for the front speakers.

I guess I have two questions:

1. I know its typically ok to run two amps off one remote wire. I got the PnP wiring harness from Modifry when I installed my H/U last year. I know it doesn't have a flying lead for the remote wire, but I can use a t-tap connector on the light blue wire to get power for the remote turn on for the amps. Can I run BOTH amps with ONE remote wire tapped from this location? Alternatively, I was thinking about using the empty switched 12v source on the left side of the fuse box (the one that uses the female spade connector) for the remote wire for both amps. Thoughts? Using the fuse box location would allow me not to splice into my harness, but it wouldn't be a big deal either way.

2. Since I've got two amps now, would you recommend using one power wire to the back then using a distribution block to deliver the power to the amps? One amp requires 4 AWG, the other requires 8AWG. So I was thinking running 2AWG to the back, and then 4 and 8 to their respective amps. Or, I just run two separate power wires. Suggestions?


Thanks everyone!

BLAQ&GREYs2k

I am running a similar setup right now (2 amps) with no issues. You can run both amps off one remote wire. The fuse box idea is definitely a lot cleaner. Turn the ignition two clicks and grab a test light. Ground the clamp and touch the terminals in the fuse location you are speaking of. If it lights up, check. Now check with the car running.

How many RMS watts are you running between the two amps? 4AWG would be sufficient to the trunk, then as you said a distribution block of at least 8AWG and 4AWG. Right now im running the 8AWG the car came wired with, distributed to two 8AWG leads and each amp with its own 8AWG ground. Do NOT ground them together. You can always go bigger with wire but 8AWG is sufficient to moderate powerlevels in a daily driving sense. If you are building for competition its 0AWG all day hahahah.

Post pics of your setup! I wanna check it out

pbook4g5

One amp is 500 watts RMS, and the other is 300 watts RMS. The 500 watt amp requires 4AWG, while the 300 watt amp requires 8AWG. I was unsure of running one strand of 4AWG, but I think I should be fine. Going by my rusty physics math (that I took 13 years ago), I'm adding the wattage of my two amps together (so in this case, 800), multiplying by 2 and dividing by the total voltage of the system (13.8) = 115 amps. That's borderline capacity for the 4AWG wire, but I'll only be running 14ft or so....

I'll definitely post pics when I get everything setup

BLAQ&GREYs2k

Well, be careful as the OE alternator output is somewhere near 130A. If that. With a/c, headlights on, and full volume, my alt is hitting 95% at idle. I have a scan tool to look at it. I turned down my sub amp substantially and tuned it to a safe zone for the alt. A/c off, headlights off, no issues of coming close. 4AWG will be fine for the whole setup

oth

I'll add...
http://www.bcae1.com has all kinds of useful info, including wire gauge calculators.
Remember that while your amps may be rated for 800 watts, it's pretty unlikely that they're
actually going to be delivering that unless you are the sort to crank the volume literally all
the way up (to 11).
Definitely run only one wire from the battery to a fused distribution block, and use appropriately
sized fuses at the battery and for each amp.
You should be able to use one remote turn-on wire for both amps, but be aware that that wire
is not capable of delivering much current, and it may be smart to use a small (100mW) fuse
in an inline fuse holder to protect the headunit.