How do you get the dash vinyl look?
01-06-2006, 06:40 AM
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How do you get the dash vinyl look?
Does anyone know how to get the textured look of the dash? I have a JDM bezel which I must cut up to make fit but I want to retain that factory dash look on the bezel. Someone point the way! thanks.
01-06-2006, 07:23 AM
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01-06-2006, 07:30 AM
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I'm just quoting myself from a different website here but this might help a little. Some of the info doesn't apply to you however.
Well... I would highly suggest using a paint made for painting plastic. You should look at SEM paint/dye for plastic. You should use: SEM Plastic Prep or SEM Vinyl Prep (part# 38348) SEM Original Trim Black Trim Paint (part# Not sure exacly what your part # will be) Read through this to get a better handle on what needs to happen when you paint the plastic.
Before starting an interior refinish job, you need to be aware of the single biggest problem with interior parts: Silicone contamination. Interior "care" products, such as Armor-All, Son-Of-A-Gun, and others, contain HUGE amounts of silicone. Once this had been sprayed on interior parts, it is extremely difficult to remove. Silicone is a painter's worst nightmare: even the slightest amount of silicone will cause primers and paints to "fisheye," separate, and loose adhesion. Not good. In order to do a good plastic refinish job, we must first address preparation and silicone removal. Silicone cannot be removed by sanding or abrading (like with a Scotch-Brite pad or SOS pad). In fact, any attempt to sand or abrade the parts to clean them will embedd the silicone into the parts, and you will be doomed to failure. DO NOT sand the parts before doing a good cleanup on them. First clean the parts in hot water with dishsoap in it. Use a sponge (something non-abrasive) and put some effort into it. Rinse them off and dry them. Dump out the contaminated water and don't use it again on the parts. Use your silicone remover, following the directions on the bottle. You will soak a lint-free paper towel, wipe once in one direction, flip it over, and do it again. Then throw that towel away and do it again with a fresh one. If you wipe back and forth with the same towel, all you will do is smear the invisible silicone all over the parts with no gain. So do the one-wipe thing and use up some of those cheap towels you just bought. Once you've done this several times to all the parts, give them a wipe-down with the grease and wax remover, using the same technique. The parts should now be about as contaminant-free as they're going to get. If they have nicks or etched-in imperfections, you can now use some sandpaper or Scotchbrite to smooth them out. If they are cracked or damaged, clean the damaged area with the SEM Plastic Prep and use the SEM-Weld II two-part plastic repair kit to fill the damage and sand it out like body filler. It sands really nice, and is easy to form. If you sand the parts, make sure that the parts do not have a finish any coarser than a wet 600-grit finish when you're done: anything less (even wet 400-grit) will leave visible scratch marks in the finished product. Final prep step is to clean the parts completely with the SEM Plastic Prep or Vinyl Prep. This stuff actually slightly softens and dissolves the surface of the parts, and makes the surface "fuse" itself to the paint you will apply. So don't rub aggressively with these prep products: follow the label directions and give the parts a gentle wipe-down. Rinse with water. If your parts are perfectly prepared, the water will "sheen" off the parts and will not separate or "break." This is known as a "water break free surface condition," and indicates a contaminant-free, clean surface. Dry the parts. Anyway, make sure you use good products or you'll just have to do it again
I hope this helps.
Well... I would highly suggest using a paint made for painting plastic. You should look at SEM paint/dye for plastic. You should use: SEM Plastic Prep or SEM Vinyl Prep (part# 38348) SEM Original Trim Black Trim Paint (part# Not sure exacly what your part # will be) Read through this to get a better handle on what needs to happen when you paint the plastic.
Before starting an interior refinish job, you need to be aware of the single biggest problem with interior parts: Silicone contamination. Interior "care" products, such as Armor-All, Son-Of-A-Gun, and others, contain HUGE amounts of silicone. Once this had been sprayed on interior parts, it is extremely difficult to remove. Silicone is a painter's worst nightmare: even the slightest amount of silicone will cause primers and paints to "fisheye," separate, and loose adhesion. Not good. In order to do a good plastic refinish job, we must first address preparation and silicone removal. Silicone cannot be removed by sanding or abrading (like with a Scotch-Brite pad or SOS pad). In fact, any attempt to sand or abrade the parts to clean them will embedd the silicone into the parts, and you will be doomed to failure. DO NOT sand the parts before doing a good cleanup on them. First clean the parts in hot water with dishsoap in it. Use a sponge (something non-abrasive) and put some effort into it. Rinse them off and dry them. Dump out the contaminated water and don't use it again on the parts. Use your silicone remover, following the directions on the bottle. You will soak a lint-free paper towel, wipe once in one direction, flip it over, and do it again. Then throw that towel away and do it again with a fresh one. If you wipe back and forth with the same towel, all you will do is smear the invisible silicone all over the parts with no gain. So do the one-wipe thing and use up some of those cheap towels you just bought. Once you've done this several times to all the parts, give them a wipe-down with the grease and wax remover, using the same technique. The parts should now be about as contaminant-free as they're going to get. If they have nicks or etched-in imperfections, you can now use some sandpaper or Scotchbrite to smooth them out. If they are cracked or damaged, clean the damaged area with the SEM Plastic Prep and use the SEM-Weld II two-part plastic repair kit to fill the damage and sand it out like body filler. It sands really nice, and is easy to form. If you sand the parts, make sure that the parts do not have a finish any coarser than a wet 600-grit finish when you're done: anything less (even wet 400-grit) will leave visible scratch marks in the finished product. Final prep step is to clean the parts completely with the SEM Plastic Prep or Vinyl Prep. This stuff actually slightly softens and dissolves the surface of the parts, and makes the surface "fuse" itself to the paint you will apply. So don't rub aggressively with these prep products: follow the label directions and give the parts a gentle wipe-down. Rinse with water. If your parts are perfectly prepared, the water will "sheen" off the parts and will not separate or "break." This is known as a "water break free surface condition," and indicates a contaminant-free, clean surface. Dry the parts. Anyway, make sure you use good products or you'll just have to do it again
I hope this helps.
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