Is this a good Amp
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Is this a good Amp
I recently installed an Aline head unit, I am now on the prowl for speakers and an amp, then a sub.
I am looking for a crisp clean sound with some nice bass. Is this amp ideal. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-0qlArHK6H3G/A....aspx?i=108255A
I am looking to wire in 4 speakers. And eventually a 10 or 12 inch sub.
If this amp is not ideal what do you recommend?
Thanks for the help!
I am looking for a crisp clean sound with some nice bass. Is this amp ideal. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-0qlArHK6H3G/A....aspx?i=108255A
I am looking to wire in 4 speakers. And eventually a 10 or 12 inch sub.
If this amp is not ideal what do you recommend?
Thanks for the help!
#2
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It would produce a good sounding system, not the most powerful in the world but would be more that suffecient. I only run 45w to each of my speakers and the volume and clarity is fantastic.
My concern with that amp is the physical size! At 23inches wide, where would you put an amp that big?
My concern with that amp is the physical size! At 23inches wide, where would you put an amp that big?
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Originally Posted by daktruckie99,Nov 6 2007, 01:24 PM
My concern with that amp is the physical size! At 23inches wide, where would you put an amp that big?
Do you think I should go with more power for the sub? I do not like the bass that rattles the housing windows while driving by, but I do want to feel it when it hits.
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Originally Posted by Neutered Sputniks,Nov 6 2007, 02:36 PM
I'd suggest separate amps for your door speakers and subs. The JL 500/1 V2 is popular (just picked one up) and then pick up a second amp that puts out 45-60 x 2.
The reason I listed the infinity amp is because a co worker has a used one for sale, 150$
#6
It's possible for it to affect sound quality. Generally though, if you go with a high enough quality amp, that shouldn't matter.
Sub amps push lots of power over a short freq range so they're not built with noise distortion as a primary concern, mostly just massive power. A class A/B amp, however, is designed for accurate sound reproduction across a wide range of freqs, which is why it's less stable at high loads/power. Class D = brute force, Class A/B = finesse (for simplicity's sake).
It's possible that an amp manufacturer has built a multi-channel amp that has a class a/b side for the highs and a class d side for the lows, but that's probably not as realistic as using a single amp (probably class D) and then using crossovers/power conditioners to split the highs from the lows and output appropriately.
Sub amps push lots of power over a short freq range so they're not built with noise distortion as a primary concern, mostly just massive power. A class A/B amp, however, is designed for accurate sound reproduction across a wide range of freqs, which is why it's less stable at high loads/power. Class D = brute force, Class A/B = finesse (for simplicity's sake).
It's possible that an amp manufacturer has built a multi-channel amp that has a class a/b side for the highs and a class d side for the lows, but that's probably not as realistic as using a single amp (probably class D) and then using crossovers/power conditioners to split the highs from the lows and output appropriately.
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Originally Posted by Doug1627,Nov 6 2007, 01:54 PM
Thanks for the input. I really do not know, just figured I would be able to squeeze it in somewhere. Possibly mount it to the floor of the trunk?
Do you think I should go with more power for the sub? I do not like the bass that rattles the housing windows while driving by, but I do want to feel it when it hits.
Do you think I should go with more power for the sub? I do not like the bass that rattles the housing windows while driving by, but I do want to feel it when it hits.
As for the power, 200w will give you plenty of bass, no it won't rattle your windows off but it will certainly fill the void that speakers leave behind. A member on here just sold a sub and said he was only giving it about 150 watts and that is was just fine.
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#8
Originally Posted by daktruckie99,Nov 6 2007, 11:55 AM
You could mount it there, but I am completely against using up trunk space when it's already scarce.
As for the power, 200w will give you plenty of bass, no it won't rattle your windows off but it will certainly fill the void that speakers leave behind. A member on here just sold a sub and said he was only giving it about 150 watts and that is was just fine.
As for the power, 200w will give you plenty of bass, no it won't rattle your windows off but it will certainly fill the void that speakers leave behind. A member on here just sold a sub and said he was only giving it about 150 watts and that is was just fine.
I don't think I've ever run more than 400W/sub and it's been more than enough in any vehicle I've ever owned. Remember, balance.
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Originally Posted by Neutered Sputniks,Nov 6 2007, 02:54 PM
It's possible for it to affect sound quality. Generally though, if you go with a high enough quality amp, that shouldn't matter.
Sub amps push lots of power over a short freq range so they're not built with noise distortion as a primary concern, mostly just massive power. A class A/B amp, however, is designed for accurate sound reproduction across a wide range of freqs, which is why it's less stable at high loads/power. Class D = brute force, Class A/B = finesse (for simplicity's sake).
It's possible that an amp manufacturer has built a multi-channel amp that has a class a/b side for the highs and a class d side for the lows, but that's probably not as realistic as using a single amp (probably class D) and then using crossovers/power conditioners to split the highs from the lows and output appropriately.
Sub amps push lots of power over a short freq range so they're not built with noise distortion as a primary concern, mostly just massive power. A class A/B amp, however, is designed for accurate sound reproduction across a wide range of freqs, which is why it's less stable at high loads/power. Class D = brute force, Class A/B = finesse (for simplicity's sake).
It's possible that an amp manufacturer has built a multi-channel amp that has a class a/b side for the highs and a class d side for the lows, but that's probably not as realistic as using a single amp (probably class D) and then using crossovers/power conditioners to split the highs from the lows and output appropriately.
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Originally Posted by daktruckie99,Nov 6 2007, 02:55 PM
You could mount it there, but I am completely against using up trunk space when it's already scarce.
As for the power, 200w will give you plenty of bass, no it won't rattle your windows off but it will certainly fill the void that speakers leave behind. A member on here just sold a sub and said he was only giving it about 150 watts and that is was just fine.
As for the power, 200w will give you plenty of bass, no it won't rattle your windows off but it will certainly fill the void that speakers leave behind. A member on here just sold a sub and said he was only giving it about 150 watts and that is was just fine.