Getting the base from the trunk to the cabin.....???
07-26-2002, 09:34 PM
#11
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well...the amp might clip with that load...or just overheat right away depending on the quality...the rockford punch power amp that i have powers two DVC subs in parallel beautifully...it really REALLY thunders with that setup...but it generated alot of heat in the process.
you are probably right though...SVC with some other power problem...
you are probably right though...SVC with some other power problem...
07-26-2002, 10:34 PM
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I am pretty certain that the subs are SVC. Just to see how things would go, I turned up the power on the amp to max, and turned on the bass boost. I then put the top down, and turned up volume. Same result...very little bass getting through. I felt a little more vibration, but thats it. So to see what the differences were, I pulled over, put the top up, and turned up the volume. Quite a bit more bass was getting through, but ooooooooohhhh the rattles were insane!
Exhaust heat shield, something inside the driver's side door panel, and all sorts of rattles from the convert. top tub. I was going to remove a piece in there to stop the vibrations, but I figured that I should address the amp issues first.
Do you have any recommendations for a good amp for a decent price? lehighwiz, are Rockford amps pretty expensive? Lucid, do you have any specific amp recommendations other than the Clarion? I would rather just get a nice, yet affordable amp now then have to get another amp a few months down the road. To put things in perspective, my Koiler amp was $140 brand new and installed from the Car Stereo Warehouse in San Diego.
Exhaust heat shield, something inside the driver's side door panel, and all sorts of rattles from the convert. top tub. I was going to remove a piece in there to stop the vibrations, but I figured that I should address the amp issues first.Do you have any recommendations for a good amp for a decent price? lehighwiz, are Rockford amps pretty expensive? Lucid, do you have any specific amp recommendations other than the Clarion? I would rather just get a nice, yet affordable amp now then have to get another amp a few months down the road. To put things in perspective, my Koiler amp was $140 brand new and installed from the Car Stereo Warehouse in San Diego.
07-26-2002, 11:26 PM
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Look for a class D amp. Make sure you're getting at least 750 RMS though. Its better to have too much and turn it down.
Audiobahn, Alpine, Visonik, and RF have some good offerings. Other than that clarion one, expect to pay well over $500. Don't buy from a discount net site unless you're 100% you'll have warranty on it.
Audiobahn, Alpine, Visonik, and RF have some good offerings. Other than that clarion one, expect to pay well over $500. Don't buy from a discount net site unless you're 100% you'll have warranty on it.
07-27-2002, 06:01 AM
#15
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Damn, Lucid...you think 400W RMS is low?! OK, I've never run heavy bass in any of my cars, but I would have thought 400 was plenty to get thgings thumping! For the money involved for 1000W+ RMS, a good enclosure and speakers, I think I'll be sticking with 3-ways 
J, RMS is RMS (average power), so it doesn't matter how anyone measures it, it's the same beast. The only spec that will vary is at what frequency it's measured at....since an amp is generally more efficient at a specific frequency, manufacturers may tend to fudge there a bit, but the difference is fairly minimal.
For the TV's there is a law that states measurements should be of the viewable area. However, it's not that the law is different for monitors, it's that there IS no law...measurements can be anything the manufacturers desire (even a 5" section in the middle of the monitor, although they'd be idiots to do that). As monitor size increases, this isn't as much of a problem, because manufacturers are trying to decrease weight by making the non-viewable area as thin as possible...the non-viewable on a 15" could be as much as 0.75" each side, but on a lot of 21" is could be as thin as 0.2" per side. There's history behind the law (or lack thereof)...
J, RMS is RMS (average power), so it doesn't matter how anyone measures it, it's the same beast. The only spec that will vary is at what frequency it's measured at....since an amp is generally more efficient at a specific frequency, manufacturers may tend to fudge there a bit, but the difference is fairly minimal.
For the TV's there is a law that states measurements should be of the viewable area. However, it's not that the law is different for monitors, it's that there IS no law...measurements can be anything the manufacturers desire (even a 5" section in the middle of the monitor, although they'd be idiots to do that). As monitor size increases, this isn't as much of a problem, because manufacturers are trying to decrease weight by making the non-viewable area as thin as possible...the non-viewable on a 15" could be as much as 0.75" each side, but on a lot of 21" is could be as thin as 0.2" per side. There's history behind the law (or lack thereof)...
07-27-2002, 11:20 AM
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I have an 88120Ti Eclipse sub that is powered correctly. I haven't removed anything from the rear besides the rattling long piece that stands vertically in the convertible base well. With the top down and on the freeway, I am not disappointed. You need to power your JL's right. You have an S2000 so why do you use cheap stuff? Get it done right.
07-27-2002, 11:57 AM
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Jshahan
[B]
MacGyver, Becasue there is no law on how the manufactures take their RMS measurements, they do it however it best suites them. I have seen 100watt sepc'ed amps (kenwood/Pioneer) not perform as well as 25watt amps (Orion).
[B]
MacGyver, Becasue there is no law on how the manufactures take their RMS measurements, they do it however it best suites them. I have seen 100watt sepc'ed amps (kenwood/Pioneer) not perform as well as 25watt amps (Orion).
07-27-2002, 12:28 PM
#20
[QUOTE]Originally posted by matrix
[B]
RMS stands for Root Mean Square, it is a standard way of measuring power.
I will bet that if you compare the specs of that Kenwood or Pioneer amp to the Orion amp.
you will find that the Kenwood/Pioneer rated at 100W but is at a much higher THD.
[B]
RMS stands for Root Mean Square, it is a standard way of measuring power.
I will bet that if you compare the specs of that Kenwood or Pioneer amp to the Orion amp.
you will find that the Kenwood/Pioneer rated at 100W but is at a much higher THD.