Best sub for the ebay box?
05-07-2009, 10:06 PM
#11
Originally Posted by 2big4aS2000,May 4 2009, 12:46 AM
i would resin the inside of those ebay boxes, seal that wood, and give it a little more strength
05-08-2009, 12:23 AM
#13
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Yeah, def use resin on the inside of the box. every prefab box that I have ever installed sounded better that way. just mix it, pour it in and brush away. Oh, and unless a sub is really heavy, using an airnailer and wood glue/sealant is more than enough to put a box together. I have actually seen a screwed together box fall apart because the screw tracks split the layers of the MDF.
Just my .02
Just my .02
05-10-2009, 08:14 AM
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do not use screws on mdf. just as wilhavens said it will delaminate the mdf and fall apart. wood glue, say tightbond 3 and brad nails to hold the box together untill the glue dries
05-10-2009, 10:21 AM
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where do you get this resin that you guys use to seal the inside of the box? also, would a rockford fosgate t110d2 sub be ok in this box? will push about 400-600 watts too it.
05-10-2009, 10:44 AM
#18
I'm curious how they measure the interior volume..
If they're quoting spec as 7 1/8" deep at 0.80 cu ft.
They say they can make the cutout 3/4" deeper (which means the box has to be taller by 3/4" - either at the top or bottom), but can't get any more volume than 0.80cu ft.
Either they don't know what they're doing...or they don't know what they're doing.
I wouldn't trust any of their calculations.
Besides, by the time that you take the time to resin the enclosure, you could as easily have ordered the Darkside Subs 1cu ft fiberglass trunkwell enclosure and been done with it for $200.
There's a huge difference between 1cu ft and .80cu ft. Moving to 1cu ft really increases the number of subwoofers you can use (and how much power they can handle). Not that everyone's looking for the most powerful subwoofer - but at speed with the top down, my extremely efficient SI Mag with 500W is probably about as audible/tactile as your 200W 12W3 at idle. And those are 12's. Get into 10's, and you'll lose even more volume from the sub at highway speeds. And then you'll complain that your sub's just not cutting it and either have to do it all over again or come in here and tell people that there's no need to put real money into a stereo in the S b/c it's a waste at speed
If they're quoting spec as 7 1/8" deep at 0.80 cu ft.
They say they can make the cutout 3/4" deeper (which means the box has to be taller by 3/4" - either at the top or bottom), but can't get any more volume than 0.80cu ft.
Either they don't know what they're doing...or they don't know what they're doing.
I wouldn't trust any of their calculations.
Besides, by the time that you take the time to resin the enclosure, you could as easily have ordered the Darkside Subs 1cu ft fiberglass trunkwell enclosure and been done with it for $200.
There's a huge difference between 1cu ft and .80cu ft. Moving to 1cu ft really increases the number of subwoofers you can use (and how much power they can handle). Not that everyone's looking for the most powerful subwoofer - but at speed with the top down, my extremely efficient SI Mag with 500W is probably about as audible/tactile as your 200W 12W3 at idle. And those are 12's. Get into 10's, and you'll lose even more volume from the sub at highway speeds. And then you'll complain that your sub's just not cutting it and either have to do it all over again or come in here and tell people that there's no need to put real money into a stereo in the S b/c it's a waste at speed
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