inactiveuser1114

How you guys doing, i'll be redoing the system on my S very soon, , so far this is what i have:

Pioneer DEH-P9400MP (Head Unit),
Alpine V12 MRV-F345 (4 channel AMP) 70w RMS/channel
Boston Acustics SL60 80w RMS
Dynamat on doors
Monster RCA and Speaker cables (need help on Gage size for speaker cables)

as i mention in a recent tread i'l be re doin my system since my MB Quart speakers blew on me, and this this is the reason i need some help in the tunning , since i am aware how important tuning of the system is , i want to make sure i do the right thing and wont blow the speakers AGAIN!!

any help/sugestions on what kind of EQ setup/hrtz, face,volume adjustment(Gain) ETC. you guys might have would be very much appretiated

Thanks alot for your time and help

IShift@9v2

Some simple key points to remember:

-High Pass crossover is your friend for mids/highs. A setting generally around the 80hz range will be all around good for a variety of music. If you have very specific music preferences that arent bass heavy, such as most country, rock, etc., you can lower the crossover point some. This is all dependent on your amp. Some amps have lp/hp/full crossover selections that dont allow user adjustment, however your alpine amp should.

-Make sure the speakers are in phase...this just means that the speakers outward stroke (positive-compression) and the inward stroke (negative-rarefaction) are the same for both sides. Having out of phase speakers severly reduces any mid-bass output and thus causes owners to crank up bass boosts, bass on the HU, etc., etc. which inevitably causes the speakers death. If you have your balance centered and you have little to no mid bass, and you shift the balance either all the way right or left and you suddenly get your mid-bass back, your speakers are out of phase. This is of course per pair, as in the S2000.

-Make sure you have a solid airtight seal on the mounting point of the speakers. The more you seperate the front wave from the back wave of the speaker as it moves to produce sound, the better mid-bass response you will get. Any extra effort you put into completely sealing the door of any escapable air leaks will also improve the mid-bass response and overall sound quality.

-Set the gains/levels of the amp properly in accordance to the output from the HU. If your Deck has a 2volt pre-out, set the amps gains to receive that 2 volt signal. Alpine usually does a good job at marking their gains/levels with easily distinguishable numbers and setting point notches.

-Try not to use any boosting features on your HU, such as Pioneers Loud feature with the low/mid/high settings. At lower volume listening levels these can work well, especially at boosting midrange and mid-bass response, but if you like to crank your music often, these settings will only overdrive the signal to the amp causing speaker killing distortion at loud volume levels.

The factory wiring in the car is enough to handle what you are installing, but if you want to overkill the gauge of your speaker wire, 14-16 awg should be more than enough.

inactiveuser1114

[QUOTE=IShift@9v2,Dec 5 2007, 12:29 PM]Some simple key points to remember:

-High Pass crossover is your friend for mids/highs.

Neutered Sputniks

Reverse the speaker wires on one of the speakers (take the pos and attach it to the neg, and the neg and attach to the pos). Can be done at the amp or at the speaker itself.

inactiveuser1114

got you, thanks for the help, anything else out there that can help in a good install and tunning of the system?

DBXFX

set gains with a multimeter on amp and don't crank up boosts to high or it will sound like $h!T

Neutered Sputniks

Best method I've always used was to set the amp gains to their lowest points. Turn on the system, set the volume to about 3/4 - 4/5 max range and then dial in the gain to where the speakers are as loud as they'll go without clipping. Dial the gain back just a smidge to give that buffer zone, and you're golden.

Using a multimeter doesn't necessarily mean giving you the best sound quality, just that you know exactly how much power is being pushed...

DBXFX

yea thats basically wat i did. at 20 vol out of thirty on my hu, it was max. after that it sounded crappy. so i put that as max vol for test, then listened by ear until it was about right, then used a multimeter to get it precise. it turned out pretty well in my case. 31.6 volts to 500w rms was perfect. they have free online calculators that tell ya.

Neutered Sputniks

Watts = volts x amps