Amp Recomendation Please
#11
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Originally Posted by J Nick,Oct 5 2004, 05:35 PM
So if I understand your advice:
1)This amp is of a quality and nature to offer some of the best sound quality and do so at higher volums then my currect unamped Alp. 9815 (which at this point I can not turn the volume up beyond 18 of 36 clicks with starting to experince distortion and will be a great selection for if/when I upgrade my components and also drive the infinity 10.1 which is not dual voice
2) I plan on a tool well install setting it in and covering for stealth with 3/8 inch plywood covered with our carpet with vents for air circulation - raised a bit to allow for air movement this amp does have fans - right? And mounting the 10 sub to the left up on the step
3) I am not sure what you mean "by how you wire the voice coils in the speakers"
its 5 channel so I planned on just hooking up two wires for each speaker to the speakers crossovers where applicable and fine tune crossover points withe the alpine and/or amp
4)the watts were a concern for me when I assume turning everything up full blast - which I will never do I wonder if the set up is too much for our car without modifying the alternator/battery - but I am not understanding you explanation as to "Basically, that means that your average wattage will be steady at 50 watts per channel RMS, but that the amp will cleanly spike or peak much higher than that, behaving like a lesser amp at maybe 1.75x - 2.0x the indicated voltage of this amp. So I do not know what you mean by headroom. Is this good? Does this mean that I have a potential for 800*2/13.8 volts = amps which tax the battery/alternator a little much?
Thank you very much for your assist - I could have gone with a lesser 4*50 and not waded into this discussion but I wanted to learn more and have more potnetial for quality - I do not need pounding sounds just stong clean sound with faint rich bass - don't think me lazy - I have studied many explanations of this stuff but it does not come easy - I am good at many things but real ignorant about electricity
1)This amp is of a quality and nature to offer some of the best sound quality and do so at higher volums then my currect unamped Alp. 9815 (which at this point I can not turn the volume up beyond 18 of 36 clicks with starting to experince distortion and will be a great selection for if/when I upgrade my components and also drive the infinity 10.1 which is not dual voice
2) I plan on a tool well install setting it in and covering for stealth with 3/8 inch plywood covered with our carpet with vents for air circulation - raised a bit to allow for air movement this amp does have fans - right? And mounting the 10 sub to the left up on the step
3) I am not sure what you mean "by how you wire the voice coils in the speakers"
its 5 channel so I planned on just hooking up two wires for each speaker to the speakers crossovers where applicable and fine tune crossover points withe the alpine and/or amp
4)the watts were a concern for me when I assume turning everything up full blast - which I will never do I wonder if the set up is too much for our car without modifying the alternator/battery - but I am not understanding you explanation as to "Basically, that means that your average wattage will be steady at 50 watts per channel RMS, but that the amp will cleanly spike or peak much higher than that, behaving like a lesser amp at maybe 1.75x - 2.0x the indicated voltage of this amp. So I do not know what you mean by headroom. Is this good? Does this mean that I have a potential for 800*2/13.8 volts = amps which tax the battery/alternator a little much?
Thank you very much for your assist - I could have gone with a lesser 4*50 and not waded into this discussion but I wanted to learn more and have more potnetial for quality - I do not need pounding sounds just stong clean sound with faint rich bass - don't think me lazy - I have studied many explanations of this stuff but it does not come easy - I am good at many things but real ignorant about electricity
2) That should be fine. The Soundstream amps run fairly cool. (I swear my PPI amp must glow sometimes it gets so hot)
3) No worries. I'd assume you will wire the normal way and run at 4 ohms.
4) You will not tax the battery with this setup. I have at least 50% more power and my headlights don't dim even slightly at loud volumes with huge bass (and no capacitor). There is a thread on this somewhere. I think the car can handle around 1,000 watts RMS continuous, or something like that.
You're welcome. I'm glad you're interested in an amp in this class. It should never let you down.
#12
Originally Posted by flitcroft,Oct 5 2004, 11:49 PM
1) Yes, this is a superb amp that should sound much better than the power from your headunit. Also note that your headunit will only put out about half of the RMS power (22 watts usually) that this amp will produce. With this amp yours ears should physically hurt before you hear a lot of distortion (although your speakers may go nuts first). At power levels like this you'll want Dynamat in your doors though. For now, try it without and stick to fairly normal volumes. Even top down at 80 mph I think you may be okay.
2) That should be fine. The Soundstream amps run fairly cool. (I swear my PPI amp must glow sometimes it gets so hot)
3) No worries. I'd assume you will wire the normal way and run at 4 ohms.
4) You will not tax the battery with this setup. I have at least 50% more power and my headlights don't dim even slightly at loud volumes with huge bass (and no capacitor). There is a thread on this somewhere. I think the car can handle around 1,000 watts RMS continuous, or something like that.
You're welcome. I'm glad you're interested in an amp in this class. It should never let you down.
2) That should be fine. The Soundstream amps run fairly cool. (I swear my PPI amp must glow sometimes it gets so hot)
3) No worries. I'd assume you will wire the normal way and run at 4 ohms.
4) You will not tax the battery with this setup. I have at least 50% more power and my headlights don't dim even slightly at loud volumes with huge bass (and no capacitor). There is a thread on this somewhere. I think the car can handle around 1,000 watts RMS continuous, or something like that.
You're welcome. I'm glad you're interested in an amp in this class. It should never let you down.
#13
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So you obviously haven't heard or touched a Soundstream amp recently then? They are some of the best you can buy, regardless of price. And obviously any company that makes a $3000 gold plated, platinum RCA jack, so-low-you-can't-measure-the-distortion amp makes only pure crap, right? Gimme a break.
Go pick up another reference amp and put it on a scale. Most are tin cans. My TR 700/2 weighs 28 lbs, runs cool to the touch with no fans, and has some of the best sound I've ever heard in any piece of audio amplification (home or car).
Go pick up another reference amp and put it on a scale. Most are tin cans. My TR 700/2 weighs 28 lbs, runs cool to the touch with no fans, and has some of the best sound I've ever heard in any piece of audio amplification (home or car).
#14
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Originally Posted by flitcroft,Oct 6 2004, 02:49 AM
1) Yes, this is a superb amp that should sound much better than the power from your headunit. Also note that your headunit will only put out about half of the RMS power (22 watts usually) that this amp will produce. With this amp yours ears should physically hurt before you hear a lot of distortion (although your speakers may go nuts first). At power levels like this you'll want Dynamat in your doors though. For now, try it without and stick to fairly normal volumes. Even top down at 80 mph I think you may be okay.
2) That should be fine. The Soundstream amps run fairly cool. (I swear my PPI amp must glow sometimes it gets so hot)
3) No worries. I'd assume you will wire the normal way and run at 4 ohms.
4) You will not tax the battery with this setup. I have at least 50% more power and my headlights don't dim even slightly at loud volumes with huge bass (and no capacitor). There is a thread on this somewhere. I think the car can handle around 1,000 watts RMS continuous, or something like that.
You're welcome. I'm glad you're interested in an amp in this class. It should never let you down.
2) That should be fine. The Soundstream amps run fairly cool. (I swear my PPI amp must glow sometimes it gets so hot)
3) No worries. I'd assume you will wire the normal way and run at 4 ohms.
4) You will not tax the battery with this setup. I have at least 50% more power and my headlights don't dim even slightly at loud volumes with huge bass (and no capacitor). There is a thread on this somewhere. I think the car can handle around 1,000 watts RMS continuous, or something like that.
You're welcome. I'm glad you're interested in an amp in this class. It should never let you down.
#15
Originally Posted by flitcroft,Oct 7 2004, 03:25 PM
So you obviously haven't heard or touched a Soundstream amp recently then? They are some of the best you can buy, regardless of price. And obviously any company that makes a $3000 gold plated, platinum RCA jack, so-low-you-can't-measure-the-distortion amp makes only pure crap, right? Gimme a break.
Go pick up another reference amp and put it on a scale. Most are tin cans. My TR 700/2 weighs 28 lbs, runs cool to the touch with no fans, and has some of the best sound I've ever heard in any piece of audio amplification (home or car).
Go pick up another reference amp and put it on a scale. Most are tin cans. My TR 700/2 weighs 28 lbs, runs cool to the touch with no fans, and has some of the best sound I've ever heard in any piece of audio amplification (home or car).
give me ur background info about ur audio status and i might change my mind about the ignorant part. from the way u replied, i think ur an ignorant fool.
wut kind of distortion are u talking about, in the cable or total harmonic distortion?
one more thing, dont get ur panties in a bunch just because i gave my opinion.
#16
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My response was only aimed at the sophmoric, ill-informed reply:
Honda makes lawnmowers. Does that mean the S2000 sucks too? Your point about why not to buy something because of who receives the profits from the corporation made completely no sense and had nothing to do with the quality of the product that is the discussion of this thread. My point about weight and price was only to denote that Soundstream makes gear of the utmost quality.
IMO, they're not near this level in terms of SQ. I have auditioned all but the diamond audio amps. The Eclipse amps were decent, but they seemed to suffer a bit when you don't run balanced cables. I have the Eclipse CD 8053 balanced line head unit and did consider Eclipse amps, but ultimately decided against them, mostly since Elcipse is available only by rediculously inflated installer prices.
Agreed. Would I pay this kind of money for a listening environment with a noise floor any more noisy than a bank vault buried in a bomb shelter? Probably not. Are they "better"? Almost certainly. IMO, you can't get any noticeable gains in a real world install in this car than an amp that is SQ-based in the range of the first amps mentioned.
well, considering that soundstream has been bought out by power acoustik a few years back, i would not recommend soundstream unless it was the old school reference.
eclipse amp, diamond audio t3, elemental designs.
if u want to go sq and dont mind paying a bit more money, arc audio and TRU.
#17
Honda makes lawnmowers. Does that mean the S2000 sucks too?
Your point about why not to buy something because of who receives the profits from the corporation made completely no sense and had nothing to do with the quality of the product that is the discussion of this thread. My point about weight and price was only to denote that Soundstream makes gear of the utmost quality.
i am authorized to sell a lot of products, including eclipse, diamond, ARC, FOCAL and TRU, just to name a few. i sometimes sell soundstream only to customers that are really set on it and wont change there mind. i used to be an authorized soundstream dealer before they sold the company to power acoustik, but after the change i felt the product decreased in quality and dropped the line. although i can still get their products from my rep.
last year, i sold about 5 amps from soundstream and 3 of them came back for repairs. cant remember from the years before, but i rememeber that they werent so great either.
if u look at some of their dealers, u will see that FRY's electronics is their biggest dealer. if u go to ur nearest FRY's, they have a lot of refurbished soundstream shit. go figure.
so through my experiences, after power acoustik took over, the quality dropped. i dont know about their new stuff being able to do under a 1 ohm configuration, but i rememeber when their reference amps can drop to a 1/4 ohm configuration and still run cool. the days of the cheater amps.
eclipse amp, diamond audio t3, elemental designs.
ever heard of the richard clark challenge. if not, basically he is saying that he can take a generic amp, compare to a very expensive high end amp and u wouldnt be able to tell the difference in amplification. if u can prove that it is better, he will give u $10,000. the only difference in amps as far as the sound that is produced, is the processing. that is wut makes some amps sound better. u should know that processing can be manipulated to sound different or better with the right equipment, so sq can be achieved with more than an amp. most high end amps are already processed to sound natural and so forth so some people like to buy them because its less of a hassle and least expensive.
Agreed. Would I pay this kind of money for a listening environment with a noise floor any more noisy than a bank vault buried in a bomb shelter?
IMO, you can't get any noticeable gains in a real world install in this car than an amp that is SQ-based in the range of the first amps mentioned.
well, when i do get my s2k, i plan to do a pure sq system, i currently have an integra type r with a semi sq system, i never got to finish it because i decided to get an s2k at the end of the year and i did not want to waste anymore time finishing it. i currently have rockford fosgate RFX-8250ti for headunit, custom made RCA's, (2) ARC Audio 2100cxl, FOCAL 130k, FOCAL 165k2p, im using the midbass from the 165 to complete a full 3way stage up front, custom kick panels, diamond audio D5 600.1 powering an image dynamics IDmax 12", custom box 2.2 cuft tuned to 26hz.
i plan to move some of this stuff into my s2k and change a few things also. like sub, sub amp, add some eqs, possibly new stereo and try a few things out. i noticed u live in the los angeles area. maybe if u need some help or would like to demo my s2k when im done, let me know. maybe we can meet up.
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