CoralDoc

Barry - I think you'll be thrilled with any of the nicer amps. The MTX 2120 amp in my car is considered a low-end design. It's rated at 35W/ch and gives a vastly improved sound over the stock head unit driving my Infinity speakers (but that's pretty easy to do considering the wimpy output of the Honda head unit). Plus, I picked it up for $120. Since you're considering amps in the $3-400 range, I'd go for one of the cleaner, more powerful models.

Barry in Wyoming

Joshua, in contraction to my first post in this thread, I'm going to see if one of the new Alpine 60 watt / channel head units will get me by without an amp. At least, I'm waiting a couple weeks for my stereo dealer to get the Alpine 60 watt head unit in stock before deciding.

My stereo dealer has an Alpine CDA-7864 coming to their store soon. I'm ordering the European Alpine KCE-865B adapter that adapts similar European Alpines to the S2000 dash controls. Alpine USA says this unit will not work with Alpine USA head units. If they are right, I'll have to ebay it to someone in Europe.

Alpine has a new line of head units just coming out: CDA-7873, CDA-7875, CDA-7876 and CDA-7878. The CDA-7878 plays MP3 encoded CD-R disks but is only "45 watts x 4 channels." The -78, -75, and -76 are "60 watts x 4 channel" and I'll forgo MP3 in favor of a tick more power.

I'll be able to try the 60 watt (20ish watts rms, not 35 watts) and if that gets a big enough improvement over the stock head, I'll settle for that.

If that doesn't get me as far as I want, I'll add the Alpine MRV T407. The only thing stopping me from the amp is the additional cutting of the stock wiring harness--and wiring through the firewall, through the doors, etc. The stock head replacement is so "plug-and-play". The Kenwood KFC-xr600s are very efficient too.

I'm having fun.

This is my first stereo upgrade, but I think it will be contageous. I'm already wondering how to improve the clean power in my '93 Prelude which has a seven speaker stock system.

Barry

MacGyver

Barry,

Personally, I would go with the MP3 capability over the power. You can easily add an inexpensive amp...adding MP3 capability is a tad more expensive.

shingles

I had a PPI amp... it was clean and sounded great.. but notice the key here is it's all pass tense. The amp died... not one year after I had it. Shaner is right, the "higher" end stuff, atleast this PPI, was toast soon. I have a fosgate that I picked up from Best Buy, it's been hmm...almost three years no, still kicking.

-Shing

Pinky

I skipped reading the whole post but the 80MXI isnt really in production any longer. My new choice would be a high end Cadence. Super clean and very powerful amps! Check them out 0.004 thd!!!(if my memory serves me right)

Barry in Wyoming

Major OOOOPPPPPPSSSSS

The audio board that led me to believe the Pioneer DEH P730 could not power the Kenwood KFC xr600s at L-O-U-D volumes is defective!

The board suffers from under-voltage. So, I now seriously question my presumption that I couldn't drive the speakers loud enough without an amp.

Remember, I'm not trying to drive a subwoofer or even a decent woofer, just pretty efficient 6 1/2 inch coaxials.

I had pretty much decided to try the Alpine CDA-7875 or CDA-7876 60 watt x 4 channel head, especially since I've got the European adapter on order. Now, perhaps I should hold out for the Alpine CDA-7878 45 watt x 4 channel with MP3 capability. First, I'd love to have it all. Second, I understand that the 60 watt x 4 channel ones do require perforating the firewall with at least one 8 or 10 gauge wire to power the CDA-7575 or CDA-7576.

Anyway, I retract my comment that it is absolutely necessary to have an amp to drive those speakers at high volume without distortion. I based that conclusion on a board with inadequate voltage.

Barry

bullit

i love phoenix gold amps...used to have a zx250 myself....that thing rocked

stbrnd

Two considerations: 1) If you are never going to add a Sub, a 2ch amp is great. If you MAY want to add a sub later, go 4 ch.

2) one thing I havent read above is regarding adjustments to the sound and outputs. This can make a big difference as to the quality and type of sound you get. This is more seen in a bit more expensive units. 300-400+ range. Yeah, I know, some of the others have "adjustments" on them, but can be very frustrating to do. I felt like a safecracker trying to turn one on a previous system (another car...another story ) to get it right.

To each there own and we'll meet in the middle

cdelena

[QUOTE]Originally posted by stbrnd
[B]Two considerations:

Barry in Wyoming

Chris, what do you think of going with the Alpine CDA-7876 instead of adding an amp as the next step. The -7876 puts out about 22 watts/channel rms into 4 ohms (60 watts x 4 peak power rated), requires 8-10 gauge lines to the battery rather than using Honda's wiring harness to get adequate current, but would avoid the added complexity of wires into and out of a separate amp.

Benefits: less complicated install than adding an amp. More versatile adjustments on head. Perhaps better audio from head.

Drawbacks: dash controls will depend on Pinky's add on OR-if it works- European Alpine KCE-865B adapter. Much less power than MRV-T407 or zx400ti.

Cost-head, adapter, install about $500
Cost of amp installed: $300 to $600 whether I go with Alpine MRV-T407 or Phoenix Gold zx400ti.

I am, at this time, planning to stay with my Kenwood xr600 speakers, door mounted, 180 watt peak power rated, very efficient though so I can get it pretty loud without distortion with the stock head--but not top down loud.