Alpine or Polk Components?
#1
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Alpine or Polk Components?
I've searched everywhere on s2ki regarding people's opinions on new components. I've read all the threads, but wanted to ask you guys a question
Currently I'm running Alpine SPS-600C coaxial speakers. They have good bass, but I'm looking for something stronger
I've narrowed down my choices to:
Alpine SPR-17S
Alpine SPX-17REF
Polk MM6501
It's going to be powered by an Alpine MRV-F340 amp:
55 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms
65 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms
130 watts RMS x 2 in bridged mode
2-, 3-, or 4-channel output
Going to be running components only, not planning on using a sub
is that amp going to be sufficient? Should I bridge it? Why do the Type R's have more wattage than the Type X's?
Currently I'm running Alpine SPS-600C coaxial speakers. They have good bass, but I'm looking for something stronger
I've narrowed down my choices to:
Alpine SPR-17S
Alpine SPX-17REF
Polk MM6501
It's going to be powered by an Alpine MRV-F340 amp:
55 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms
65 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms
130 watts RMS x 2 in bridged mode
2-, 3-, or 4-channel output
Going to be running components only, not planning on using a sub
is that amp going to be sufficient? Should I bridge it? Why do the Type R's have more wattage than the Type X's?
#4
Registered User
I had Polk dB series components and they sucked. The crossovers were garbage and the soldered conenctions broke. I have Alpine Type Rs and love them. Much higher quality in all aspects.
#5
Registered User
Based on numbers alone, the Polks go lower into the frequency response range and have higher sensitivity than the Alpines. But that's just on paper--I haven't compared them.
#7
Originally Posted by TrackStar,May 10 2010, 09:31 AM
I had Polk dB series components and they sucked. The crossovers were garbage and the soldered conenctions broke. I have Alpine Type Rs and love them. Much higher quality in all aspects.
In the "lower end" I prefer Alpine Type-Rs and Infinity Kappas.
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#8
I have db6501's.
They suit my needs, and have almost convinced me to not put a sub in. Almost.
Most of the music I listen to does not have low bass, or bass that needs a 10"+ to give you good reproduction.
The tweets are a bit bright for my tastes, but I can fix that with a resistor (I think). Will have to go look that up when it becomes time.
I am sure the coating of sound deadening in the doors helps with the "bass" response of these speakers.
They suit my needs, and have almost convinced me to not put a sub in. Almost.
Most of the music I listen to does not have low bass, or bass that needs a 10"+ to give you good reproduction.
The tweets are a bit bright for my tastes, but I can fix that with a resistor (I think). Will have to go look that up when it becomes time.
I am sure the coating of sound deadening in the doors helps with the "bass" response of these speakers.
#9
Registered User
Originally Posted by operator207,May 11 2010, 02:06 PM
I have db6501's.
They suit my needs, and have almost convinced me to not put a sub in. Almost.
Most of the music I listen to does not have low bass, or bass that needs a 10"+ to give you good reproduction.
The tweets are a bit bright for my tastes, but I can fix that with a resistor (I think). Will have to go look that up when it becomes time.
I am sure the coating of sound deadening in the doors helps with the "bass" response of these speakers.
They suit my needs, and have almost convinced me to not put a sub in. Almost.
Most of the music I listen to does not have low bass, or bass that needs a 10"+ to give you good reproduction.
The tweets are a bit bright for my tastes, but I can fix that with a resistor (I think). Will have to go look that up when it becomes time.
I am sure the coating of sound deadening in the doors helps with the "bass" response of these speakers.