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alpine amp settings

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Old 03-30-2010 | 07:42 PM
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Default alpine amp settings

finally got my system put it.
HU: alpine ida x305
speakers: alpine spr-17s
amp: alpine mrv f340

now since im using the crossovers that came with the speakers do i leave all the settings for crossover off. i only need to adjust the gain?

i have to say this set up sounds awesome so far. cant hear road noise, even wind noise with just the windows down. love it haha











HU: Alpine iDA-X305
Speakers: Alpine SPR-17S
Amp: Alpine MRV-F340

cut down the mounts so i could mount the alpine tweeters where the factory were
mounted x-overs in the door panel
made spacers so i could use the oem baskets, didnt work out because the door panel would stick out about .5 to an inch (failed) end up only using the spacers i made earlier.
than i made a custom mount for my amp with out drilling any holes to bolt the rack down. i used the original spot where the spared tire was bolted down but i just used a smaller bolt (get pix later)

sound amazing. no road noise or wind noise with windows down. its crazy. havent gone top down yet. best thing is i used all existing holes to mount everything other than the x overs
Old 03-31-2010 | 04:55 AM
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be sure to sound deaden the doors on any speaker upgrade you do, this probably would make the biggest difference of anything.
Old 03-31-2010 | 06:04 AM
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Well, I can help...I have the Alpine iDA-x303 installed and the Alpine SPS-600C speakers. Easy to do all around and sounds great. I was going to keep this setup until I could amp and sub later on, but I honestly don't feel the need to now. It handles my music very well and with no distortion, even cranked fairly high with the top down (actually, I don't need to go too high at all with the top down...I don't think I have turned the volume up past 75% on the HU yet - about 12 out of 20 on the volume count).

The iDA-x303 fits within the radio door (minus a little shove as the big center knob does brush up against the outer edge of the business card/paper holder on the door). I routed the ipod wire through the back and up the side of the console to the glove box. I didn't need to drill or anything since I was able to hide the wire very well.

The SPS-600C speakers will require you to cut the bottoms out of the stock speaker basket. A good set of clippers will do the job nicely. Other than that, they were a breeze to install (the 6.5's that is) and didn't cause any issues with the window.

I didn't put any sound deadening, but that might be something I go back and do in the future.

For the price (HU is about $200 and the speakers are about $130) its a very good bang for the buck. I would stay away from the Type R's unless you are also going to amp your system. The Type R's are meant to be amped and will not perform well just on HU power alone. If you are going to amp, then the Type R's are an excellent choice to go with.
Old 04-02-2010 | 11:53 PM
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thanks for the quick response.
now im thinking of upping the hu to the x305 which i can get for 240 new
also i know the type r need to be amped in which i do have a 4 channel alpine amp i can use (brand new never open)
wonder if i could run the type r with just the hu for a few weeks till i figure out the wiring for the amp. would it still sound crap with just the hu powering them up
would i use a PAC SWIJACK to keep my factory controls working?
Old 04-04-2010 | 09:52 AM
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i plan on amping the speakers, i have a 4 channel amp. i know i can wire the door speakers and tweeters to the amp but do i just wire the head rest tweeters to the amp as well or can i keep those running of the hu?
Old 04-05-2010 | 06:44 AM
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You can run the speakers without the amp, just won't get full potential out of them. They should still sound ok.

I'd leave the head rest speakers wired to the HU, unless they are some higher end aftermarket pieces. The stock ones won't carry much of a load on them, so they should be fine as is.
Old 04-05-2010 | 08:36 AM
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forget the PAC SWIJACK, everyone on here will agree that its crap-tastic and a huge waste of money...go with Modifry's DCI, its a bit more expensive but works flawlessly and has a bunch of "extra" commands (i.e. hold mode and press vol up/down, etc.)
Old 04-05-2010 | 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 2big4aS2000,Mar 31 2010, 04:55 AM
be sure to sound deaden the doors on any speaker upgrade you do, this probably would make the biggest difference of anything.
What difference did the sound deadening make? Reduce rattles/road noise, and/or actually make the speakers a little louder?
Old 04-05-2010 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by SlowTeg,Apr 5 2010, 09:03 AM
What difference did the sound deadening make? Reduce rattles/road noise, and/or actually make the speakers a little louder?
yes, yes and yes
Old 04-05-2010 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by schmittx,Apr 5 2010, 08:36 AM
forget the PAC SWIJACK, everyone on here will agree that its crap-tastic and a huge waste of money...go with Modifry's DCI, its a bit more expensive but works flawlessly and has a bunch of "extra" commands (i.e. hold mode and press vol up/down, etc.)
Agreed, although I opted not to do either. My hands so close to the actual HU and since I prefer to use my left hand for actual wheel control, it just wasn't that cost-effective for me. Perhaps in the future though...


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