06+ with Alpine HU + KTP-445
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06+ with Alpine HU + KTP-445
I'm planning out my stereo upgrade... I don't plan on adding a sub (hopefully I'll be satisfied with the results).
One of the options I'm looking into is an Alpine Head Unit + the Alpine KTP-445 to power my fronts (Still researching my aftermarket components options).
Since the fronts will only take 2 channels, will I have 2 channels unused or do I need to wire those 2 channels to my Roll-hoop speakers? I ask because I don't want to blow those Roll-hoop speakers.
Thank you in advance.
Current Plan (Budget):
- Alpine HU + KTP-445 + Modifry DCI
- Cascade VB-2HD the doors
- Components (Possibly Infinity unless I can find some JLs or Boston Acoustics for relatively cheap).
One of the options I'm looking into is an Alpine Head Unit + the Alpine KTP-445 to power my fronts (Still researching my aftermarket components options).
Since the fronts will only take 2 channels, will I have 2 channels unused or do I need to wire those 2 channels to my Roll-hoop speakers? I ask because I don't want to blow those Roll-hoop speakers.
Thank you in advance.
Current Plan (Budget):
- Alpine HU + KTP-445 + Modifry DCI
- Cascade VB-2HD the doors
- Components (Possibly Infinity unless I can find some JLs or Boston Acoustics for relatively cheap).
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Recently edited post, adding the stock tweeter wiring as well.
Just wondering if it's even possible. With an aftermarket head unit, can I (without modification):
1) Install coax 6.5's in the doors.
2) Leave the stock tweeters connected.
3) Leave the roll-hoop speakers connected.
This is the an even more budget option I have come up with. Probably not the best idea... but I'm sure it'll sound better than my stock setup.
Thanks!
Just wondering if it's even possible. With an aftermarket head unit, can I (without modification):
1) Install coax 6.5's in the doors.
2) Leave the stock tweeters connected.
3) Leave the roll-hoop speakers connected.
This is the an even more budget option I have come up with. Probably not the best idea... but I'm sure it'll sound better than my stock setup.
Thanks!
#5
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I put component Polk's in the front (replacing stock speakers and tweeters) and am running a CDA-117 HU and KTP power pack...the power pack connects in line between the vehicle harness and the HU so it'd be a little difficult to split up the channels individually.
I left my roll hoop speakers connected and have no complaints, the setup is very clean and has plenty of power to be heard top down at 90+ MPH...no concerns with blowing the roll hoops speakers, I just biased the EQ towards the front slightly...
I left my roll hoop speakers connected and have no complaints, the setup is very clean and has plenty of power to be heard top down at 90+ MPH...no concerns with blowing the roll hoops speakers, I just biased the EQ towards the front slightly...
#6
i did a similar set up. alpine hu speakers and 4 channel amp. the hu would have front and rear rca. i just ran the front rca to the amp and from the amp to the front speakers. if you have crossovers. u will wire the stock tweeters to the crossovers and than only the front speakers and tweeters will be amped. leave everything else wired up and your rear head speakers will be powered by the HU. i upgraded my front tweeters as my upgraded speakers came with tweeters.
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Thanks everybody for the feedback.
I heard "Music Box" by Eminem on the radio recently, and the "bass" or "midbass" sounded really good out of my stock system. Therefore, I think I have really scrapped the idea of getting a sub and will focus on some decent components for the doors and possibly amp them using a real amp or possibly the Alpine power pack.
Just bought some MDF to make some custom brackets for the doors...
I heard "Music Box" by Eminem on the radio recently, and the "bass" or "midbass" sounded really good out of my stock system. Therefore, I think I have really scrapped the idea of getting a sub and will focus on some decent components for the doors and possibly amp them using a real amp or possibly the Alpine power pack.
Just bought some MDF to make some custom brackets for the doors...
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#8
I'd vote for just getting a half decent 2 channel amp (instead of the KTP (a decent 2 channel amp used is cheap)) and running the front components off them, and disconnecting the roll hoop speakers. This is what I opted to do. I went with an alpine 9887, polk db6501 components, and an older RF power 87.5x2 amp I had from my previous car for the front components and I'm happy. Yes, the polks aren't the best, but they fit into the oem baskets w/o any mods and are pretty good imo.
I have the 2 channel amp installed under the driver's seat. It fits nicely there. You can't slide the seat all the way forward, but I can't drive like that anyway, and most people probably can't either. The amp only gets very warm to the touch after cranking the music, it has plenty of ventilation there, so no problems. I would STRONGLY advise to just not powering the hoop speakers. They sound like trash imo, and you're much better off just running with components. With the amped front speakers they can get much louder than I can stand w/o distortion. Honestly, I found the oem system to be half decent (for a stock system), but if you turned the volume up, the weak/crappy headunit lacked the power to drive the speakers, which meant bad distortion when I drove with the top down and tried to listen to music.
Oh yeah, I was in the same position as yourself. I was really thinking about getting a sub, but find the components to be "good enough" base wise that it's not worth it to me.
I have the 2 channel amp installed under the driver's seat. It fits nicely there. You can't slide the seat all the way forward, but I can't drive like that anyway, and most people probably can't either. The amp only gets very warm to the touch after cranking the music, it has plenty of ventilation there, so no problems. I would STRONGLY advise to just not powering the hoop speakers. They sound like trash imo, and you're much better off just running with components. With the amped front speakers they can get much louder than I can stand w/o distortion. Honestly, I found the oem system to be half decent (for a stock system), but if you turned the volume up, the weak/crappy headunit lacked the power to drive the speakers, which meant bad distortion when I drove with the top down and tried to listen to music.
Oh yeah, I was in the same position as yourself. I was really thinking about getting a sub, but find the components to be "good enough" base wise that it's not worth it to me.
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SlowTeg thanks for the input. Your screen name sounds like you had an Integra before... either that or you hate them. hahah I used to have an Integra too, but am now much happier with S... although I miss the Integra sometimes.
Anyway, you are probably pushing me in the right direction... the only reason I was thinking about the Power Pack is because it's so damn easy to install. I don't really mind running the wires... so maybe I should just buy a nice 2 channel... or 4 channel to add a sub later =)
Did you dynamat the doors at all?
By the way, I went to listen to some speakers at Best Buy today, and to me, the Kicker Components had so much more midbass than the Alpine (too much treble) or the Kenwoods (too much high treble, not enough gut to the highs - I really don't know how to explain that, please bear with me). I don't remember the exact models but the Alpines were about $130, Kenwoods P709 was the same and the Kicker ds6002 were $150...
Anyway, you are probably pushing me in the right direction... the only reason I was thinking about the Power Pack is because it's so damn easy to install. I don't really mind running the wires... so maybe I should just buy a nice 2 channel... or 4 channel to add a sub later =)
Did you dynamat the doors at all?
By the way, I went to listen to some speakers at Best Buy today, and to me, the Kicker Components had so much more midbass than the Alpine (too much treble) or the Kenwoods (too much high treble, not enough gut to the highs - I really don't know how to explain that, please bear with me). I don't remember the exact models but the Alpines were about $130, Kenwoods P709 was the same and the Kicker ds6002 were $150...