Dibsen

I think I can classify my usage as 80/20 road:track. I have been considering getting a commuter (cheap Honda or Toyota). Sometimes a little break from the S makes it more exciting when you jump back in it. Know what I mean?

all that to say, my usage ratio may change in the next year or so. Even after the addition of a commuter, the S will still serve dual usage; spirited day and weekend road trips with me and the Mrs. + auto cross and track events.

car is stock 01, on 16” square re71rs. My goal was to do a year in CS class for ax, but I’m ready to move into STR.

I have been mainly focused on the Ohlins road and track. Bilstein has been on the back burner and recently saw a new suspension on Tire Rack.

Been reading a lot about these recently, seem to fit my need/wants well.

This morning was the first time I’d seen these. Subsidiary of KW, and from the image, seem to use a dual spring setup.


interested in y’all’s thoughts.

im happy with the oem suspension, I’d like to improve the performance at speed. While the oe is capable (probably more than me) it doesn’t recover quickly when upset. I realize it’s my fault for upsetting the suspension, but it feels like as you get closer to the limit, there is less control.

I don’t know if I am explaining that well.

Bama Dave

First I would learn the car is the stock setup before doing any modifications. Don't know of too many people who can drive the S2000 to its capability.
Modifications in order and learn how it efforts the handling characteristics of the car.
1.If an AP1 I would go to the !7x9 wheels with 255-40-17 tires. If Autocross is what your interested in great, just remember STX is a money pit. Seat time
2. DOT 4 brake fluid and a great brake pad setup. Good tire keep you on the pavement and great brakes keep out of trouble in most cases.
3. More aggressive alignment, chamber, caster, and toe front and rear.
4. Small Fortune Front sway bar with the ball bearing mounts. AP1 you will need to increase the front pounds on the sway bar above the oem rear bar pounds setting. This will help with the snap oversteer with the AP1.
5. Do your research and choice the suspension. So many companies out there.
6. Seat time and enjoy the car.
Best of luck man.

B serious

Its not clear what you want the car to do better.

Any aftermarket suspension will require dialing in for it to be effective.

Ohlins or Bilstein are both good choices, if you're looking to open up a box, toss the parts on, and go drive. They're only available in 1 configuration, with minimal initial setup required.

Both will work for your purposes.
Both will need supporting setup modifications to actually be effective. An alignment, at the least.

Ohlins is the better of the 2 for track use.

Bilstein is the better of the 2 for street use. The spring rates are similar to that of a stock CR...so they might be the right choice for you.

I would not use the ST or any other non adjustable twin tube damper.

You could also consider Koni Yellow shocks and your stock springs, if you just want shocks with less compression/more rebound damping, as compared to stock. Those, theoretically, should make the car easier to drive. Don't lower it with Konis and stock springs. Just use the standard perch height.

Dibsen

I may start a separate thread for this but I had my suspension collapse today after 3 x 20 min track sessions at Road Atlanta.

i was thankful this didn’t happen while driving on track. Before the gates closed at 9, I wanted to drive around and get a few pics before the sun sett. Driving over a speed bump at less than 10 mph, the front suspension collapsed. Thought I dropped a fender liner at first. Got out and quickly realized something was wrong. The fender liners were sitting in the tires!

I slowly, and carefully drove out of the gate and called my insurance, was going to need a tow. While on the phone, I had my son jack up the car to let the shock fully extend. It worked. I have a theory about what happened but searched around and couldn’t find a similar case.

all that said, I’m going to look hard at the Ohlins. But I need to upgrade my brakes too. I had bad brake fade on the second session, it was hot and I came in hard on the brakes at 120 and they faded bad. Glad I didn’t run off.

so much for starting another thread

Dibsen

Looks like the suspension collapsed before the speed bump. In the pic below you can see the front tire touching the fender and how high the rear looks.


My assumption is the shocks got over heated.

noodels

Lake of gas in the damper > leads to oil foaming

B serious

No

The damper doesn't hold up the car. . It just damps the spring. You can collapse a perfectly good damper by hand, using your body weight. Granted...this car does have monotube dampers with airsprings. The airspring adds enough "spring rate" to account for maybe 0.1 to 0.2" of ride height. So...no even a dead damper won't cause a suspension collapse.

OP...look around a bit more. What broke or came loose? A control arm? The shock-to-LCA bolt? A lower ball joint?

*If the suspension is properly assembled* the coil spring holds the weight of the car. Even if the damper is completely dead.

I'm going to guess someone left the shock/LCA bolt loose. It came off...your car fell down. Your son jacked the car up, the shock popped back into place over the "hump" on the LCA and now it looks semi normal.

You probably did damage the shock and other items due to this..so...inspect carefully before driving.

Bullwings

If you're looking at the Ohlins, I would say to consider looking at the MCS-1WNR from Karcepts.

https://karcepts.com/collections/hon...ension-package

noodels

Oh yes forgot about that !!

noodels

Checked welds on upper arm inner area,as prone to brake welds.. a gusset plate is available to weld on.