RoosterS2K

Well I track the car, not very often but once every 2 months probably.

rioyellows2k

Rotors are wear items for track duty, so Napa rotors are fine.

BrakeExpert

Let me throw in my 2 cents. OEM rotors are always overpriced. What matters is that the rotors are machined flat. OEM discs are cross hatched so they are dead flat and bed in is easier. A lot (probably most) aftermarket makers do this too. Even for track racing use, blank rotors are blank rotors, no matter the brand, especially for iron rotors like ours. All 4 rotors for the S2k should be able to be had for no more than 200$ for all 4, don't waste your money on OEM discs.

The bouncing when your car stops could be a bad bushing or two, but is most likely that the brakes are warped. Thats a slang term, but what it means is that there are parts of fhe disc that are thicker than the other. You cant see this with the naked eye, you need a dial indicator, any brake shop can check this very quickly. Resurfacing discs is like regrinding a flywheel in that it resurfaces it to be flat again. Discs can have these thick parts because of excess brake pad depotits (running them very hard and coming to a completet stop) or leaving them out in the rain for a long time, where the rotor gets rust on it, but little if no rust forms under where the brake pad is, causing this spot to be a different diameter from the rest of the rotor, because when you then use the brakes next time, you will wear down that rust, and if it say for months and months, it may have gone into the disc JUST a bit, so now the part under the pad is thicker than the rest of the disc, so when your rotor gets to this part, its thicker and this translates into your brake pedal as a pulsating. If this continues over time, you will notice the car lunging slightly back and forth. This means there is a high or low spot (or more than one) and you will need the rotors put on a brake lathe to be made flat again. If they are beyond their "minimum thickness" then you'll have to get new ones. If you are hard on your brakes, make sure to read about correct brake-in procedures where you can make sure the new rotors are bedded in so that you're not getting uneven deposits and causing the rotors to screw up right after you get them.

Sorry for the inundation of information.

RoosterS2K

Sorry but I don't feel like reading your entire post.
I checked last night and the rotor is completely cracked.

Croc

oops.......
good thing that you and your S didn't get hurt .......

BrakeExpert

Ouch, like the whole way through? Did you overheat them? If this was from overheating, check your bearings too, as they could also need a replacement.

RoosterS2K

Yeah I'm going to have to check everything, I was extremely suprised, the car has 35k original miles on it, they must of been on fire...

I appreciate everyone taking some of their time to help me out!