s2kflorida

If the caster bushing is the compliance bushing, go to GoTuning and buy the $81+$7 compliance bushing by Mugen.

s2kflorida

I think they only carry the Spoon line.

s2kflorida

I thought so as well, but many people on the forum (threads about bushings) said I wouldn't notice the difference too much.
Anyone with experience chime in??
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I planned to do a NVH test with a video camera mounted to my dash Before/After. Unfortunately I got too excited and forgot and started the install already. I've already installed the front UCA. Haven't driven it yet.

s2000ellier

Awesome! I'll wait for your DIY before I tackle the install. I still need to order the compliance bushings.

zacha79

just ordered my set. plus got the compliance bushings from gotuning

s2kflorida

Wow holy crap my back is sore. This is no easy task guys. I got all the upper arms on all 4 corners done. The front right lower Compliance bushing has a collar sleeve that runs through it and it seized so I can't get the arm out. I'll have to take it to a shop and see if they can do it without destroying the bushing.

The rear left lower arm is also seized on the rear bushing. The nut won't come off so I'll have the shop look at that one. All in all, the upper control arms are pretty simple. The lower ones are PITA. Be sure to disconnect your brake lines before you do ANYTHING. All my ball joint and tie rod joint dust boots were damaged and ripped. I ordered new polyurethane dust boots from energy suspension from the universal dust boot selection. I measured the ball joints as 16mm top diameter, 36mm bottom diameter, and about 21mm height. If you have over 80k miles on your suspension, I recommend you order some new dust boots. OEM dust boots were $83 from majestic honda for all 8 dust boots(one upper, one lower per wheel). I decided to order $25 worth of polyurethane from energy suspension. I went with black so it didn't stick our unnecessarily.

s2000ellier

It seems people are having to saw off the sized lower compliance bushing I do not look forward to that part!

Did you have to remove the upper arms to install the bushings? I figure you could unbolt it from the body and rotate on the ball joint and use the tool from autozone to press them in and out.

s2kflorida

The tool weighs about 15 pounds. Imagine holding a 15lb C clamp, with a 2 lb carbon steel cup, while holding the upper arm still and aligning the die in order to press. Then having to apply about 1 ton of pressure via ratchet. I had to lay everything on the floor and set the ratchet at 45 degrees and press out the bearing by stepping on the ratchet because I couldn't get enough torque on the press.

Removing the arm was easy with the ball joint tool from Harbor Freight for $20. I used a 20% of coupon.

caleb2483

omg... this sounds like an intense job for sure not for novice like me

will be looking forward to DIY

s2kflorida

I took the car to the shop to have mechanics work on the seized bolt. Turns out that my overnight soaking of PB Blaster must have done the trick because it came right off! Anyway, it was intentionally torqued down very hard by the previous owner because the alignment seems to slip if not tightened to the extreme.

I think for most people, spray all the nuts, joints, bolts, etc with PB Blaster the night before attempting the install. This will save you a lot of time and headache. Give me a couple more days to finish the DIY write up.