OHLINS dfv question
#32
Originally Posted by steven88' timestamp='1422776145' post='23489174
So you're suppose to hand tighten until the spring and perch touch, then add 30mm more?
Please educate me, but isn't that a whole lot of preload? I mean isn't that effectively turning the stock 8 inch Ohlins spring into a 6.8 inch spring? And that's before the wheels are put on, and the car is even lowered to the ground. The rear spring is massively compressed at all times.
Please educate me, but isn't that a whole lot of preload? I mean isn't that effectively turning the stock 8 inch Ohlins spring into a 6.8 inch spring? And that's before the wheels are put on, and the car is even lowered to the ground. The rear spring is massively compressed at all times.
Yup, that's what I'm saying (though some others are respectfully disagreeing).
That's only if the dampers can only travel 2" as you said, which is a little more than 5cm. I find 5cm of damper travel ridiculously small!
I know by tweaking the preload you are only trading bump travel (increased preload) with droop travel (decreased preload, duh!). But it seems there is not much to trade here.
Also, I think having a rear wheel in the air inside a corner will have dramatic consequences on your traction, which is sad.
#33
steve, are you referring to me?
You're correct though, the whole time I was looking into upgrading my suspension, I never once took into consideration what you would think.
I do have a 'basic understanding of how it all works' I was just trying to clarify this pre-load issue.
You're correct though, the whole time I was looking into upgrading my suspension, I never once took into consideration what you would think.
I do have a 'basic understanding of how it all works' I was just trying to clarify this pre-load issue.
#34
This is just one of the many thinks that has been irking me lately is the number of people buying nice higher end suspension that don't even have a basic understanding of how it all works. If you don't know you don't need it. At that point people are just buying it because someone else said it was the best.
People find good setups and duplicate them. This is extremely common in autox/tt.
#35
This is just one of the many thinks that has been irking me lately is the number of people buying nice higher end suspension that don't even have a basic understanding of how it all works. If you don't know you don't need it. At that point people are just buying it because someone else said it was the best.
To the OP, No disrespect expressed or implied above. Any consolation, our FTOD at the autoX here is on Ohlins DFV, I have not driven on them personally but I had a front row show of what they can do and I was impressed. PM Gernby, he might be able to lend some tips.
#36
So what's the verdict here? I know Urge is a well known dealer who sells Ohlins kits, and is very educated on Ohlins products. He says preload should not be that high, and recommends the 2mm preload. Andrew and Steve both say they run Ohlins recommended preload with no issues. I've also read others running recommended settings with no problem.
Urge, do you happen to have any further comment as to why thomsbrain and Gernby recommends 30mm of preload? Thanks.
#39
To be clear the question is whether or not there is any advantages to running more than Ohlin's recommended preload in the rear in terms of actual wheel travel. Not to mention possible disadvantages like limiting rebound travel and putting unnecessary stress on the damper even when the car is lifted off the ground. That is why I asked if people who have decided to preload the rears so much have measured their rebound travel.
#40
Originally Posted by andrewhake' timestamp='1423255175' post='23496403
It's a good question, that still really hasn't been answered in my opinion.
So what's the verdict here? I know Urge is a well known dealer who sells Ohlins kits, and is very educated on Ohlins products. He says preload should not be that high, and recommends the 2mm preload. Andrew and Steve both say they run Ohlins recommended preload with no issues. I've also read others running recommended settings with no problem.
Urge, do you happen to have any further comment as to why thomsbrain and Gernby recommends 30mm of preload? Thanks.
He uses 0.08" or 2mm Preload on the Front and 0.6" or 15mm Preload on the rear. His rationale for the 15mm preload is to put the piston in the middle of the shock. He wanted to go more but was limited by ride height. IMO, I think 15mm is a little much, but Gerby has numerous FTD against much more modified cars running 2X higher cost shocks.
Your milage may vary.