Official Springs Thread
#271
Ok guys, well I just got off the phone with skunk2, because myself and many others were wondering about the spring rates for the skunk2 springs. They are:
Front (9 coils): 380
Rear (8 coils): 243
Now I know most of us install these in reverse order, i.e. 8 coils in the front and 9 coils in the rear.... so if you are, you would now be running 243 rate in the front, and 380 rate in the rear.
Just wanted to post up some clarification.
Front (9 coils): 380
Rear (8 coils): 243
Now I know most of us install these in reverse order, i.e. 8 coils in the front and 9 coils in the rear.... so if you are, you would now be running 243 rate in the front, and 380 rate in the rear.
Just wanted to post up some clarification.
#273
Checking in: Installed my Espelir ASD, new tires, and got a UK alignment. Car is 100x better. Springs are great (as good as you can get w/o $2K coilovers, IMO), and the car is just planted.
#274
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Originally Posted by RED MX5,Nov 1 2008, 12:58 PM
One of the reasons there are so many variations in spring rates, anti-roll bar rates, shock profiles, and so on, is because no one setup is ideal for every situation or driving style. For example, if you set your car up for zero understeer in low speed autocross type turns, you'll have too much oversteer in high speed turns, and conversely, if you set the car up to be neutral in high speed turns, it will push too much in low speed turns. Even if you're not using spoilers and/or wings, you still have to factor in aerodynamics, because even a bone stock S2000 has a lot of lift at the back, and this will move the handling bias toward more oversteer at higher speeds. Take things one step at a time, and tune the handling to make the car behave the way you want, under the conditions that matter most.
A few "random thoghts" on your stated goals.
Zero Understeer/Very Neutral - Zero understeer in steady state cornering means instant understeer when you squeeze the throttle to exit a corner. Also, when you are on the brakes entering a corner, the car will either unload the rear tires and oversteer, or overlaod the front tires, and understeer. IOW, while zero understeer sounds great, you have to decide at what point you want the car to have zero understeer, becaue you're not going to have neutral handling under all conditions. The best soluiton is to build in some adjustability so you can set the car up for different tracks and conditions.
Lightning Fast Reflexes/Stiff - Stiffer means quicker responses, but reduces mechanical grip. Go too stiff, and the car will slide around every time you try to change direction. Nothing illustrates this any better than a good drift car; They're so stiff that they might has well not have a suspension, and it's hard to change direction at all, at speed, without sliding (which is the whole point of drifting). If you get a chance to drive a well setup drift car, try it out. It's fun, but not what you want if you want to be fast on the autocross courses or race track.
I would, for the most part, advise against buying adjustable suspension components if you don't know how the adjustments affect the car's handling, but adjustable anti-sway bars, and alignment, are two things that everyone can understand and use to advantage (as long as you have a place to do some "test and tune"). Be prepared to buy parts only to discover that they don't have the desired effect and have to be replaced with something else. If you can't deal with tuning at that level, find someone who has a car that hanles the way you like (drive the car to verify this) and just copy what they've done.
Keep in mind that tires have a huge effect on both the total grip, and the way the car responds. The same thing applies, to a lesser degree, to the LSD you select.
Are you autocrossing the car, tracking it, setting it up for canyon runs, or what?
Your goals are paramount in selecting the most suitable suspension mods.
A few "random thoghts" on your stated goals.
Zero Understeer/Very Neutral - Zero understeer in steady state cornering means instant understeer when you squeeze the throttle to exit a corner. Also, when you are on the brakes entering a corner, the car will either unload the rear tires and oversteer, or overlaod the front tires, and understeer. IOW, while zero understeer sounds great, you have to decide at what point you want the car to have zero understeer, becaue you're not going to have neutral handling under all conditions. The best soluiton is to build in some adjustability so you can set the car up for different tracks and conditions.
Lightning Fast Reflexes/Stiff - Stiffer means quicker responses, but reduces mechanical grip. Go too stiff, and the car will slide around every time you try to change direction. Nothing illustrates this any better than a good drift car; They're so stiff that they might has well not have a suspension, and it's hard to change direction at all, at speed, without sliding (which is the whole point of drifting). If you get a chance to drive a well setup drift car, try it out. It's fun, but not what you want if you want to be fast on the autocross courses or race track.
I would, for the most part, advise against buying adjustable suspension components if you don't know how the adjustments affect the car's handling, but adjustable anti-sway bars, and alignment, are two things that everyone can understand and use to advantage (as long as you have a place to do some "test and tune"). Be prepared to buy parts only to discover that they don't have the desired effect and have to be replaced with something else. If you can't deal with tuning at that level, find someone who has a car that hanles the way you like (drive the car to verify this) and just copy what they've done.
Keep in mind that tires have a huge effect on both the total grip, and the way the car responds. The same thing applies, to a lesser degree, to the LSD you select.
Are you autocrossing the car, tracking it, setting it up for canyon runs, or what?
Your goals are paramount in selecting the most suitable suspension mods.
#277
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Just got my Espelir springs installed today. They are on stock struts for now. Took about 3 hours and wasnt all that hard to do. The ride is great... it rides about the same as the stock springs maybe a little stiffer but the roads around here are fairly smooth. I love the drop also. Here are some pics.
REAR TIRE
FRONT TIRE
FRONT BUMPER
IN FRONT OF REAR TIRE
So basically these springs level out the car at a 25" height. Im not sure what the stock height is but you can measure that yourself. I know that the front sits a little lower than the rear with stock springs. Also this was right after the install so after a couple weeks of driving and the springs settle in the car will probably be a little lower.
REAR TIRE
FRONT TIRE
FRONT BUMPER
IN FRONT OF REAR TIRE
So basically these springs level out the car at a 25" height. Im not sure what the stock height is but you can measure that yourself. I know that the front sits a little lower than the rear with stock springs. Also this was right after the install so after a couple weeks of driving and the springs settle in the car will probably be a little lower.
#278
Originally Posted by slvrstnS2000' date='Aug 2 2008, 08:46 AM
has anyone ran into issues with the tien S-yechs sqeeking over time. ive had mine on for about two months and just starting sqeeking and have gotten worse over the last 2000 miles.. im debating on going back to stock unless someone can please answer this question for me... i hate feeling like im driving some cheap car around..thanks
#279
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I'm a noob at things like this...but a friend of a friend is selling me neuspeed springs...it'll give me a 2inch drop...and i was wondering if i would need to roll my fenders i still have my stock ap2 rims on....or if i would need a camber kit.....or any of that stuff...please let me know thanks