No Brakes After caliper removal and bleeding
#11
Originally Posted by s2000ellier' timestamp='1338058408' post='21731897
you're going to be pushing more than 2 bottles of fluid through the system before you get a solid pedal. Go buy a cheap gallon from walmart and use that when you get a good pedal use something quality. no sense in wasting the good stuff.
#12
Bled the system A TON MORE. Nothing it is actually worse ;| I feel stupid now, since I do all my work on my car myself.. : | Man this blows.. I even let the fluid back out to see if there was a bubble, and re-did it too, but nothing has improved..
#13
You're doing something wrong... How are you bleeding? Try a combination of gravity bleed and two person method. If you have air in the master cylinder, it will need to be removed and bench-bled.
#14
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Gravity bleed it.
#15
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Put the car up on 4 stands open the rear bleeder with a line out submerged into a glass of water ect and keep adding fluid - give the process 20 minutes for each corner and all of the air will be pushed out.
#16
i did the same, it will take 2 liters of brake fluid to get the air out. You have to remeber that you are also pushing air out of the master cylinder since all of the fluid ran out of the lines. I had to pump each corner several times also. It is also possible that your master cylinder failed. Mine failed once I put the calipers andnew brake lines together so I have to replace that then re bleed everything yet again. The pedal should be solid, any soft feeling to it indicates air in the system, any air in the system will lead to trouble..... i did not bench bleed my new master cylinder so it took longer to get the air out
#17
(Update) 6/12012 - hey everyone the problem has been fixed. I always like to follow up because I am pretty sure over 40% of (HELP) threads on the web never actually get updated, and it is a good learning tool to come back and post your findings. I am embarrassed about what happened, but that is besides the point because I learned. The front calipers were on the wrong side, A good way of knowing this is the bleeder valve has to be on top, not bottom. So the air would have NEVER escaped if this was not figured out. I brought ti to a family friend that has been working on cars for years, it took him about 30 minutes, but he said the only reason why he was able to know this was because he did it before.
The entire system is bled now, and is 100% working. All new fluid has been added, and a lot of time has been spent. I just wanted to post this to help anyone out if this were to happen to you.
Thanks everyone!
The entire system is bled now, and is 100% working. All new fluid has been added, and a lot of time has been spent. I just wanted to post this to help anyone out if this were to happen to you.
Thanks everyone!
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