Lower Control Arm Replacement. NEED HELP NOW!
#12
#13
You use a sawzall or angle grinder cut off the adjustment bolts. For your new ones either replace the lock nuts every time you align the car or tighten the lock nuts with ~30+ ft lbs over normal. It seems that re-using the locknuts stops them from being self locking.
Loose adjustment bolts cause the alignment to shift under cornering, which in turn causes the adjusters to bind. So please when tightening the lock nuts if you reuse them tighten to ~80ft lbs you won't have a problem.
Loose adjustment bolts cause the alignment to shift under cornering, which in turn causes the adjusters to bind. So please when tightening the lock nuts if you reuse them tighten to ~80ft lbs you won't have a problem.
#14
so i just somehow snapped my front passenger lower control arm and had the worst time ever getting the back vertical bolt out so i had to grind both sides and pry sub frame to pop out of there, will need to bend back to shape when installing my new lca.. however, i am now stuck on the last bolt, the horizontal one that closest to the motor.. i turn it to loosen it and it just spins the entrie bushing and the threads on the other side it comes out of.. im pretty sure this is considered siezed?? sadly i jacked her all up in my garage and didnt think it would be this much of a hastle just to prep it for the new lca.. so i only have a butane torch at the moment, i dont think this is near enough what i need to heat this siezed bolt up, what are my options?
#16
This. Be careful not to hack up the frame. Get spare blades. You will prolly need several.
The euphoria you will feel once you finally pry it loose...
The euphoria you will feel once you finally pry it loose...
#17
I used a 7" metal cutting disk on an angle grinder took about a half hour to cut the arms free. Used just one disk. Wear thick gloves and eye protection, I got a piece of hot metal embed itself in my left index finger. Not fun popping blisters and pulling metal splinters. Also if you're tight on space, you can turn the bushing rather easily once you start slicing through the rubber. This way you can cut through portions of the inner shell weakening it, and then you can just twist it off. The top lock nut that sits in the alignment tab below the area you just cut is removed through the inner part of the subframe, don't try to pull it out through the fender side, you'll just pointlessly struggle. You'll know what I'm talking about when you get to trying to fish it out.
#18
so i just somehow snapped my front passenger lower control arm and had the worst time ever getting the back vertical bolt out so i had to grind both sides and pry sub frame to pop out of there, will need to bend back to shape when installing my new lca.. however, i am now stuck on the last bolt, the horizontal one that closest to the motor.. i turn it to loosen it and it just spins the entrie bushing and the threads on the other side it comes out of.. im pretty sure this is considered siezed?? sadly i jacked her all up in my garage and didnt think it would be this much of a hastle just to prep it for the new lca.. so i only have a butane torch at the moment, i dont think this is near enough what i need to heat this siezed bolt up, what are my options?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ETKMS
S2000 Racing and Competition
1
04-15-2010 10:29 AM