It could go a tad lower, but I wouldn't push it much otherwise you'll lose handling performance.

 

so how does it work?
you lower the car -> spring preload is reduced ?

 

Well, first thing is, i'm on the clubsports but i'm sure the same applies. You can't use the shocks right out of the box...well because no car sits perfectly flat...theres always going to be a cm or two in discrepencies. For example, my front left is well within KW's "recommended" ride height range, and my Rear right is as well, but my rear left is on the verge of the limit, and my front right is exceeding the limit. My car has never been in any accidents where frame damage occurred (incase your thinking i have a bent frame) And how low/how practical you can go also depends on your supporting mods, IE if you have sway bars or chassis reinforcements, cause that all changes how much roll, pitch and yaw you have.

PS you have lifetime guarantee on them anyways, so blow them out it makes more sense for you to do so

 

I used mine right out of the box, I went ahead and made sure the dampening was consistent on the rear and front by counting towards full stiff and set them back the same amount of clicks. I have the new style, so the clicks are applied to change compression as well(some may refer to these as sweeps). I did not touch the height adjustment at all and mine sit even, as far as I can tell. I just went ahead and change my settings in the last hour. There is a total of 18 clicks for rebound and 14 for compression.

4 clicks away from full stiff for Compression all around.

Rebound: 5 clicks from full stiff at front and 7 clicks from full stiff at the rear.

I will see how they feel tomorrow (Had a few beers so I didnt test them tonight).

How much of a drop do the Tein and espilar springs provide? Maybe that way I can search out some pics of s2ks with those springs and see how they look and how much Ill be able to drop the car.

 

roll center adjusters would actually allow you to have the car lower and give back some suspension travel as they push down the lower control arm which is what the coilovers are bolted to. I had them up front on my last s2000 and I had to go up a good 5-6 turns to get them back to the height they were before the install. I didn't put them in the rear although I would imagine a very similar situation. That might let the car look like it was below their recommended setting without actually being below it. You get your low look and have more suspension travel. Win win there.

I've also see a write-up of a guy that managed to use what looked like civic/integra ground control top hats and made them work on his v3's. Those tops let the strut mount a little higher which gives you back some suspension travel as well.

See here: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/326...ophat-install/

If I had v3's I'd definitely do this. I'd be curious to see if they provided any additional travel over my clubsport tops.

 

Up to a point, then there is zeo preload no matter how much lower you go. I have zero preload, but I can't adjust preload separately.

Preload changes the initial amount of force that is required to move the suspension. It's used a lot in circle track cars where different spring rates per corner are used.

People put way too much focus on pre load in this forum.

 

The left rear will be impossible, if not to fit, then to adjust my dampening with the GC hat modification.

The ride on the new settings was definitely more firm. I Hope dropping it an inch will decrease body roll, and if so, I will make the soften up the dampening a tad bit for daily driving.

I was able to adjust compression on all 4 corners with the car on the floor. For the front, I turned the wheel to get access. I did it by feel and then I got dirty and look a peek to verify "my feel" and all was good. I did it by feel on the rears too and then verified by looking. The compression knob with the numbers on it makes it a whole lot easier. I bet the older style kw v3s wouldn't permit me to successfully do that while the car is on the floor.

Lets hope my drop will decrease body roll as I stay within KW's range and hopefully it will be to my liking as far as the aesthetics of the drop goes.

 

Dropping the car will have zero effect on body roll. It will effect usable stroke and combined with less damping will increase the likelihood that you will bottom out your shock.

 

After living with my settings for the last couple of days, I have grown accustomed to them and I prefer them over my softer settings(kw settings).

Now, how significant is the helper spring while going through kw's ride height adjustment from max to min recommended?

What role does it play, if any?

 

If you didn't have the helper spring in and tried to go real low eventually the spring would just flop around. The helper spring prevents this from happening.