Help with koni coilover install
#11
Former Moderator
You might also be able to get a ya lower as well depending on the condition of your bushings.
#12
I got the Phase 3 from Truechoice, revalve was included in the package. I *think* the revalve alone is around $115.
Try running shorter springs. At those spring rates, you could easily go down to a 6" spring. Try a 7" spring first and go from there.
I may try that in the future, though I will definitely need spring tenders at anything less than 8".
Thanks for the update bummer about the height. Did you loosen the upper and lower control arm on the rear then jack up to ride height then tighten? If not then you'll want to do this so the bushings aren't stressed.
You might also be able to get a ya lower as well depending on the condition of your bushings.
Thanks again for your help. I preloaded the UCA bushings as you described and the lowers should have been taken care of with the alignment.
Originally Posted by Ayge' timestamp='1334928484' post='21626676
After lowering the sleeves and bottoming out the perches, I'm down to 13". Was hoping for 12.5", but it is what it is. Thanks again for the help.
Originally Posted by Ayge' timestamp='1334928484' post='21626676
After lowering the sleeves and bottoming out the perches, I'm down to 13". Was hoping for 12.5", but it is what it is. Thanks again for the help.
You might also be able to get a ya lower as well depending on the condition of your bushings.
#13
Former Moderator
Spring length and tenders have nothing in common, it's spring rate and droop that determine how much play the spring will have between perches.
The lower front bushing doesn't get touched at the alignment shop but the one in back does.
You're very welcome
The lower front bushing doesn't get touched at the alignment shop but the one in back does.
You're very welcome
#14
I've driven about 100 street miles and done one autocross since installing them, for the most part they feel great. It doesn't bottom out at all, so it's not nearly as harsh as I would have expected given the spring rates. I have noticed, however, that the rear feels bouncy over rough pavement at slow speeds (~25 mph). I tried increasing the rear rebound, but it seems to make it worse. Valving issue? or just the nature of what are essentially track spring rates intended for smooth pavement?
#16
I was reclocking the suspension bushings just to make sure I didn't miss a corner. I put the front of the car on jack stands, then jacked up one of the front control arms until the spring compressed and the car lifted off the jack stand. Am I correct in that this is the ride height? I noticed that there is zero room between the bump stops and top of the shocks. If I'm thinking about this right, the car is riding on the bump stops all time time.
#17
Former Moderator
Measure from the hub to fender just like you would to get ride height and jack it up to that point.
Once you have it jacked up to the ride height measurement then take a look at your usable travel.
Once you have it jacked up to the ride height measurement then take a look at your usable travel.
#18
Jacked up the control arms and measured as you suggested and confirmed that the point where it lifts off the jack stand is the ride height. That said, I also confirmed that I had no suspension travel as it was statically on the bump stops. I cut about 5/8" off the fat end of each bump stop and flipped them around. Now has about 1" travel. I don't think I need to worry about bottoming out the shocks with these spring rates. Hopefully this takes care of the bounciness.
#20
I have dynos for the dampers, though to be honest I don't really know how to read them. I can post them tomorrow.
The inch is both front and rear.
Thanks again for all your help!