vjarnot

So I took all the control arms off the car to replace the bushings. I was finishing up the re-assembly today.

Got the right front done, and move to the left front. Lower arm went torqued down just fine, torque the front bolt on the upper arm - no problem; started tightening the rear bolt and my luck turned sour. Bolt got to about 30 ft-lbs and spun the threads right out of the nut. Now that I reflect on it, I'm not sure what exactly was holding that bolt in for the last 8.5 years.

The beauty part is, that nut is welded on... I got a 12x1.25 replacement nut, but I'm undecided as to whether or not it's worthwhile to weld it to the control arm bracket... thoughts?

Anyway, to preempt the inevitable comments regarding torque wrenches. Yes, my wrench was set to 76 ft-lbs. Yes, I know torque wrenches can suck. This is a Proto wrench which came with a calibration certificate, 76 ft-lbs is damn near to the middle of its range. Yes, I know brand-whores go for Snap-On, but I'd place money that a Snap-On wouldn't be any better (if it were as good) as my Proto.

Anyone else see a similar failure?

PS Strangely enough the rear get 20 ft-lbs more torque - same bolt, but beefier nut in the rear.

PPS Yes, I did just write "nut in the rear".

Slows2k

If you can get a wrench on it I wouldn't bother welding it.

vjarnot

My thinking as well, especially given how close it is to the brake (hard) line.

zeroptzero

see my reply in the other thread , replacement parts listed.