Dibsen

The fact that they are still in tact after the abuse of RA says something. haha! It was one of those things were I told myself, "it's for fun, its the experience, I'll take it easy."

I ordered the oem pads for daily use. They were fine for AutoX (although, I don't know if that is something I am going to keep doing regularly). I have my eye on some Powerstop slotted rotors too, I'd like those and some ducts and I think I'll be content with that for a while.

I'm already over budget for the year on track events and car mods. After Daytona I am looking at doing a local AX in August with my brother in law. He has an ecoBoost Mustang, I think he'll have fun at the local course, it's about 10 min from his house. He works a lot but I don't know what he spends his money on. I thought I could help with that

engifineer

IMO skip slotted rotors and for sure drilled rotors. little to no benefit for slotted (unless you just like the looks... then go for it) and drilled will likely just crack sooner on track. Good quality blanks are just as good and easier to find quickly. I have always used either centric blanks or Napa premium blanks and have never had any complaints.

For autox the OEM AP2 pads are fine. You will never overheat a street pad on an autox course unless something is wrong (brake dragging). I only adjusted mine for autox to get the amount of initial bite I wanted for my driving style. Hawks are cheap and I use the HP+ for autox a lot.

SlowTeg

I agree with everyone else.. stop messing around with OEM pads and get some track pads already.. *smh* If you want oem pads for the street do what everyone else does and swap pads on and off for events.

engifineer

He already stated he ordered OEM for street and autox use, not for the track. He used them at RA but stated after his intended use.

Dibsen

thanks Engi.

here’s the shitty part, I just checked on my Powerstop pads and they got delayed in shipping. I ordered them on Sunday, shipped priority and they were supposed to get here Wednesday. Tracking is showing them getting here Friday the 21st.

At least I have a new set of ap2 pads. Got to say, I’m pretty bummed. I’ll be sure to just keep my braking zones in high speed sections long.

Bama Dave

Best of luck if you are going to track it on OEM brakes. Is the track time worth it using them. Only takes one mistake to really mess up the car. If you are going to truly track the car you need to have the replacement parts etc pads, rotors and fluids. Just be careful man

Dibsen

it was still worth it. I won’t do another track day without the right pads though. They glazed after/during the first session so I just took it easy in the two high speed braking zones.

I probably have 2-3 autoX events before the end of the year, don’t have any track days planned.

next year I’d like to get in 3-5 track days with dedicated pads and rotors, and ducts. Once I feel confident in my brakes I plan on addressing the power. I need a little more.

Car Analogy

One thing to keep in mind, rear rotors are solid. They don't dissipate heat well at all. They act more like a heat sink then slowly dissipate heat.

On street that is enough. They are able to keep up. Track is totally different story.

Rears will overheat first, which then makes fronts take on more work, and they eventually overheat.

So adding front capacity without adding rear not most effective. In fact, adding rear capacity first makes more sense.

Short of a full on bbk front and rear, the rear solutions are:

Urge rear rotors

SakeBombGarage rx8 caliper based kit

Urge is stock diameter, stock caliper, so maintains exact stock bias. Its a vented rotor. Cools much faster. Yet two piece rotor, so lighter than stock.

Downside is you have to mod caliper mounting bracket to make it wider for rotor clearance, plus use shaved brake pads. Even shaved, they'll last as long or longer than stock since less heat.

Can buy shaved, or diy shave with sander.

Thia kit is also wheel friendly. Works worh any wheel, even stock.

SBG rear kit uses a Mustang rear rotor, and an rx8 caliper. rx8 pads. Adds even more rear heat capacity than Urge rotor. In fact, more than needed with stock fronts.

Which kinda works out bc this kit really works best with some sort of front bbk. Rotors are larger, as is caliper piston, so alters bias to rear. Which works well with a bbk that has good match for bias.

Which then means you need wheels that fit whatever front bbk chosen, as almost none of them work w stock wheels.

The SBG rear kit is also heavier than stock.

So if keeping front stock, consider Urge rear. If front bbk is in your future, consider SBG.

engifineer

7 years into tracking and I am still rocking stock brakes with track pads . I am not saying I am at the very pointy end, but typically well up into the faster bunch at the events I attend so I do drive the car pretty hard. You dont need to get all bent up on buying a BBK up front. A BBK wil reduce your cost of consumables for the most part which is good but you can go plenty fast without one so dont get scared into spending $3k + on a new brake setup just yet

Also, driving style plays into this HUGE. Example, I was at a NASA event last year. I am good friends with the guy that took TT5 first place that day. They are all on hoosiers, I was just running HPDE 4 on Kumho V730s (so not even the really fast 200TW tire). I was around a half second off his times that day. He goes through rotors and pads almost twice as fast as I do whether he is driving on 200TW tires or Hoosiers. I know people faster than me and slower than me that tear through brakes much faster than me. So regardless of how fast a person is or how slow a person is, a lot is to be said about driving style and brakes. I have yet to have issues with my brakes overheating on any track so far, running on 95 degree days balls out for 20 minutes a session with just good fresh fluid and track pads on stock sized rotors.

I am not knocking a BBK and if costs would not have soared I likely would have done one by now to reduce consumables down the road (Although you have to recoup that initial cost). I think a lot get hung up on thinking they just HAVE to have one and you do not. If you boost the car and are carrying a ton more straightaway speed you will start running into more heat related issues with brakes but on stockish power (or even just a good tune) that is not really a big deal. And there may be tracks with very long straights where you may run into it more. But just drive the car, pay attention, use good fluid and pads and you will figure out what you need. I honestly think a lot of people think that them wearing through brakes like crazy means they are fast, and many times it can be the opposite.

And be careful on "needing more power". If you just want more ok but there is so much to be gained by just getting a lot of seat time. Lots of high power car drivers have walked up after a session and asked me if I had a turbo to look kinda puzzled when I told them I have a whopping 225 WHP lol.

B serious

I've been successfully using Powerstop PSA's for the last few years. I've been tracking S2000's for 17ish years, using a plethora or different brake pads.

I'm still on the stock system. I crack front rotors every 3 or 4 track days. They're like $20ish, so I just buy a few sets and keep 1 or 2 spares with me for track events.

The rears do get hot...but...so what? I've replaced 1 rear wheel bearing/hub in 17 years, due to worn parts. The ones I replaced because I spun and hit something don't count.

Keep it simple until you outrun the stock system. You don't need dedicated pads/rotors if you're already using Powerstop PSA's. Just leave them on.